Stock baffles. Only a fool vents the passenger side plates because that's the oil-squirter side and it will fill up with oil.

 

I've been running the car super-conservative under the prime on the turbo and it netted these numbers which are perfect to keep me in TTB. The car is pretty damn fast for 11psi. I added about 3* and it made 242whp. I might sneak the wastegate signal over to the cold-side of the intercooler and add a couple psi and get significant gains but for now I'm surprised the car is so fast for such little output.

 

That is a very nice/smooth curve. I honestly wouldn't change a thing about it. Is your boost tapering past 5500? If it is then yes change the signal source, if not I wouldn't touch it.

I'm so glad you're finally enjoying the car, having fun, and not making every other post a ***** *** "omg I'm tho thcaredddd" rant.

 

MAP is holding steady, I may move it for 10-20whp if I have room for TTB.

 

12:1 AFR @ peak torque?

Also what is ttb?

 

The dyno is .3 lean according to the shop, I trust my MS based upon tuning it on a couple different dynos. I'm at 11.6:1 all the way through.

 

you could probably shift that top end up slightly with some adjustable cam gears and sacrifice a tiny bit below 4000 to better match shift points, but it looks like a nice smooth output regardless.

 

That's the opposite of what I want. I'm content shifting at 6800 and using "too high of a gear" in a few places.

 

I forgot what it was like to drive this car when it made 260whp on a Mustang, and that's a good thing.

 

I don't remember seeing it and I tried searching the thread with no luck: what are you using for seats and harnesses?

 

Ultrasheild seats from TDR and Simson 5-points. They get the job done on the cheap, I wish I had left the Sparco Sprint on the passenger side and bought-up a Sparco Corsa for me because I get some bruising on my thighs after a couple hours of seat time.

I'm sending the harnesses to Crow for a re-web at $100 the first time, $50 after that. I'm getting a HANS fairly soon and switching to the Crow 6-point with the HANS straps. I think that if I'm driving the car hard enough to get bruises I should probably step-up the spinal protection.

 

How comfy do you find the ultrashields?

I'm 6'3" and all torso so I need a healthy drop in seat height - without breaking the bank.

-Zach

 

I suppose they are "comfy enough". I get bruises on my thighs and back hurts on extended road trips, but they get the job done when bolted to the floor. If you're interested I might sell the both in the future and get a Sparco Corsa.

 

It's time to get serious about NASATT. I need to spend $200 rewebbing belts, $75 on stickers, and $200 on entry if I'm going to enter NASATT in 3-weeks. I'm not really sure that I'm ready to cover my car in stickers and compete with what I want to keep a streetcar.

 

Time to jump the band wagon and strip the car. Don't worry, stickers = horsepower.

In seriousness though, maybe spend a lot of time applying stickers to magnets and cutting them out? You'd want to wash the car thoroughly first, as to not rub any grit around under the stickers.

 

What class are you considering?

 

Bonus HP for APC stickers.

 

I grow closer to the racecar reality every day.

The problem with magnets is simple...the bumpers aren't magnetic and I must have stickers and numbers on all 4-corners.

TTB

#'s, NASA, Hawk, and maybe a tire company sticker.

 

I would, however, shipping them would be a pain in the ***.

I really wanted to pick up a pair of memoryfab s68's, but even used they fetch good money.

-Zach

 

So, I had some pack knockback again yesterday when I drove around to weigh my car. I bet all that extreme brake heat is what killed the bearing so I had a look.
Yep, the old Redline grease I tried died under the heat

The AMSoil bearing grease started out white, but it was turning gray which tells me it overheated. However I should note that it was not black, viscosity was not reduced, and it did not stink. The Redline greased bearing reeked of burnt grease.
So I decided to rebuild a few bearings

I got my hands on 2-cheap Mazda bearings from a buddy with a Woldpack account. Then I found this...what is this rough black **** in the race? I could feel the "gunk" on the race and took it off with a scouring pad. I'm not impressed for $95 each on an OEM Mazda part. Again, this bearing is new and straight out of the box.

Notice the heat-treatment stripe, I'll discuss that later.
Now we're going to monitor heat


I usually use Timken or ebay China bearings. At this point, according to the notes I keep on the car, it looks like there is no durability difference between Timken or China bearings. I've started buying whatever is cheapest on ebay with a real picture that shows the heat-treating stripe and a rubber seal on the back. The metal seal-type fail quickly by letting brake dust in, the bearings without the heat-treatment stripe do not last one day.