hustler's "driver shame" thread
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...6&d=1318471421
hmmmm, head gasket leak between cylinders? There is a much more significant ring from the gasket around #4. When I loosened the studs if felt like studs in the same area were looser than the others. I'd hate for this to be a head-torque issue.
hmmmm, head gasket leak between cylinders? There is a much more significant ring from the gasket around #4. When I loosened the studs if felt like studs in the same area were looser than the others. I'd hate for this to be a head-torque issue.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Nope, never did this. That's a mistake I'll never make again.
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Before cleaning: red arrows shows a consistent clean "washed" area on all pistons. Exhaust side of head shows significantly more headgasket paint.
My intake valves appear to be black. Not covered in black dirt or oil, but they are clean now and they are black. WHAT WOULD DO THIS? They have the 4W cast on them so I have to assume they are stock. I don't recall them being black when the head went on. Nevermind, looked at old pic. I guess stock intake valves are black.
I think this may be my problem. http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/in.../t-341569.html
My intake valves appear to be black. Not covered in black dirt or oil, but they are clean now and they are black. WHAT WOULD DO THIS? They have the 4W cast on them so I have to assume they are stock. I don't recall them being black when the head went on. Nevermind, looked at old pic. I guess stock intake valves are black.
I think this may be my problem. http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/in.../t-341569.html
Last edited by miatauser884; Oct 13, 2011 at 12:18 AM.
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Jeez are you always this lazy. These are well known products like Earl ultraflex something, Aeroquip Starlite etc. The nicest products like these have a kevlar outer braid and are pretty spendy they are light though. Some also require specialized hose connectors at least I think the Aeroquip stuff did. Just go to JEGS or summit racing etc and search. There are plenty of cheaper brands too.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Don't do braided stainless lines. My hoses and fittings guy carries an industrial textile braided line that is lighter, gasoline safe, alcohol safe, massive pressure safe, uses standard fittings and is cheaper than any stainless line you would actually want to run. Plus it doesn't look like ricer stainless line train wreckage, and it won't rub a hole in anything it touches. I do shrink a piece of heat shrink tubing over it anywhere that I'm worried about it touching something, but it's pretty tough, and I doubt it's really necessary.
Does anyone have a specific hardline to braided line fitting they recommend? I'm scared about this part and need someone to hold me (by the genitals).
Also, and most importantly, wtf should I do with my factory regulator? Do I put a hard-line converter on there or use the eBay FPR I picked-up for $20? I'd rather not buy a $200 Fuel Lab regulator because I'm not certain that I need it.
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Jeez are you always this lazy. These are well known products like Earl ultraflex something, Aeroquip Starlite etc. The nicest products like these have a kevlar outer braid and are pretty spendy they are light though. Some also require specialized hose connectors at least I think the Aeroquip stuff did. Just go to JEGS or summit racing etc and search. There are plenty of cheaper brands too.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
STFU you lazy ****. Even my cat's mom (Polly-Momma) knows which ceramic-kevlar-Berryllium wrapped depleted Uranium hose material he's talking about, regardless of her time as an engineer at F1 Redbull and work on the Richard Branson's space shuttle. You need to learn to search.
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The stuff is a generic industrial hose. It doesn't have a name, it has a part number, and I haven't the foggiest idea what it is. I'll try to stop by and see my hose/ fittings dude this afternoon and check the specs and prices.
When I convert to aftermarket lines, I like to use flare nuts and sleeves, then convert from the stock hard line size (usually -6/ 3/8" feed and -5/ 5/16" return) to -6 male and use the mystery line I mentioned before.
When I convert to aftermarket lines, I like to use flare nuts and sleeves, then convert from the stock hard line size (usually -6/ 3/8" feed and -5/ 5/16" return) to -6 male and use the mystery line I mentioned before.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I put these pics on another forum and everyone told me that my car was unreliable and I should buy an Evo, STI, Vette, Mustang, or whatever. This once again confirms that most people, even the ones who own fancy car shops, are total morons.
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haahahahah. yep. could have just said "most people are total morons".
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Elite Member
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Houston, TX
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
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The driver's ego however is easily broken down when passed by a coche de peluquera, driven by a puta de pista de carreras.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I just dropped it off with the machinist. The intake valves aren't sealing at all, most exhaust valves seal fine, although the machinist said it looked like the erroded valve was a weak stock, bad out of the box and that it was very rare but he's seen it before. I'm going to buy Y8's SS valves, get stronger Supertech single springs, and a valve job then be on my way. Now I will have a $1k head. $400 in labor for the valve job and lash adjustment, not too bad.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I like it when Texas Mile ******s try to tell me something about roadracing. That idiot really believes his 1-mile dragrace is more severe than 30-minutes of track action.
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