curly

iTrader: (25)

Omg I can’t even, y’all ruining my Christmas buzz.

it’s motec.

thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

I'm an opinionated bastard who's two years into his "few-expenses-spared" K-swap and I'm seeing an invitation for me to share those opinions, whether they land well or not. And I'm sure there'll be some anecdotes and experiences in here too. Feel free to curse or ignore me, it's all good.

My first thought is that I would not personally be comfortable with 500hp in a dual-duty Miata. If you go through the trouble of putting those numbers down and can actually use them on track, you're going to be seeing some seriously high speeds. Given that the Miata is so flimsy and was never imagined to have that kind of energy, I'd want a very well-designed cage, race seats, and harnesses. Any of those three things take a car out of "dual duty" in my mind. Some people are OK with race seats and harnesses on the street, but a cage is really going to make street life miserable. You're also going to want a ride-height that'll be punishing on the street and attention-grabbing aero bits that you'll inevitably whack your head on or destroy when you just can't avoid that dead raccoon in the middle of your lane.

I've got a Haltech 1500 that I'm setting up now (my goal is to start the engine before the new year). Haltech is infinitely better than MegaSquirt. The other day I had a stupid question, was browsing the Haltech forum for answers and saw them say "don't post questions here, just call us". So I did. At 10pm Pacific. An Aussie bloke picked up in a few rings. I asked my stupid question and he both knew exactly what I was talking about and had the answer ready. Our conversation lasted less than a minute; I was blown away.

On the downside, I feel held back by the number of inputs for the Haltech systems. I have a couple of digital outs leftover, but zero analog or digital inputs unassigned. Their I/O boxes are not cheap but even worse the ratio of inputs to outputs is just not what I want.

The PDM-32 is an enticing offering but definitely talk to people who own them before you go down that road. I don't know if they're even being made right now or ever again due to supply chain issues. And AiM has historically been bad about fulfilling orders and stocking units. I've also heard their support is terrible or non-existent. Thar be dragons here; talk to as many users of their PDM series as you can before you decide to go in this direction.

Finally, before you begin a project like this, I'd suggest doing some top-down design thinking: leaving out all the implementation details, what are your goals? Doing this will help you to keep you focused and put guard rails on your project. I'm used to having a "User Needs" document at the top of my requirements cascade, so that's how I approached the design of my CAN-controlled fuse/relay box. These aren't perfect examples, but they were a starting point.

Coming up with a list like this at the very beginning of a large project like this could be a very helpful thing.

Anyhow, thems my thoughts, if you'd like to subscribe to my newsletter, I'd be happy to rant again later.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I've bolted one to a turbo miata and after multiple test days and a 40 minute sprint, I had zero issues, and the data it provided was invaluable to solving multiple setup issues elsewhere.

I've velcro'd one to an R8 LMS floor for the T25, ended up being more like the 22 hours of thunderhill, but regardless, it was invaluable for many aftermarket functions, including turning head lights off in pits when drivers forgot, automatically turning interior lights on for pit stops, running multiple defrost systems, etc. Again it was flawless the entire time.

My point is it's hardly an unproven product. Yes their software isn't amazing, I haven't seen any other PDM software that's leaps and bounds above it though. I went into my first PDM32 install with only basic AIM, PDM, and wiring knowledge, and had no problems making it do everything I wanted. There are a few documented issues when super nerds who's brains are far larger than mine have tried to do complex setups on them and ran into issues, but I've yet to run into anything that can't be solved with a minor change to my programmed logic or a minor re-pinning of an output.

They are currently out of stock almost everywhere, although I've heard of a few vendors you can call and they have them on the shelf. The status LEDs on the side of the case are apparently difficult to obtain, so they're shipping some units without the LEDs. It's cool to see them light up when outputs turn on, and can be handy if the unit is within sight to quickly notice a problem, but the little LEDs don't tell you anything you can't see by plugging in to the unit. The R8 I mentioned had an LEDless unit, I have no concerns with their quality.

Padlock

All good points that I constantly battle with myself on... Kpower did the 500hp dual-duty miata concept on their white NB2 shop car, and those "in the know" understood how that panned out. The key point here is, I want the powertrain to be able to handle that level of power as a "future proofing" thought, but I can almost guarantee you that I'll be running WG spring pressure or mild boost figures the first handful of outings. I could see the "500whp kill tune" be more for drag strip or a fun street pull than a full track session, but that's all dependent on powertrain temps too (which I wont know until I get there). I'll hit all the main points here:

Cage:

• Having one on track would be great, but its awful in pretty much every other circumstance in how I use the car outside of that purpose. My compromise always has been (and continues to be) just settling on a BBFW rollbar (w/ harness bar). Its much safer than nothing on track (and a requirement for the HPDEs that I attend), but not a jungle gym of bars around your head to constantly worry about when street driving to and from the track (and commuting to work, going on joy rides, etc).
• I think risks of incident rise dramatically once you go W2W racing (hence cage requirements for those cars), but I have zero ambitions to ever turn this car into a W2W car. To be short and sweet, if I wanted a caged car, I'd probably just start over with a bare shell rather than modify what I've got and dramatically decrease its value.

Seats/Harnesses

• Already have fixed back sparco's with 6pt harnesses in the car. The driver seat could be upgraded to a full containment for track safety purposes (at a trade-off to general visibility), but other than that, I'm happy with it from a track perspective. The risk that I'm living with here is running harnesses on the street without neck bracing as I obviously don't drive around with a helmet on while on the street. I'll be the first to admit that it's not ideal, but given the car generally sees more track usage than street usage, I've defaulted to the setup more well suited to track on this case.

Ride Height / Aero

• I've been running at a "no compromises" track set right height for years and thousands of miles with a splitter height that I couldn't fit my steel toe shoe underneath. The critical piece of the puzzle in succeeding at this is allowing upward deflection of your splitter when you hit things (ie: cables). The splitter shown below lasted for 4 years before the wood just simply started delaminating from water damage over the years. I've hit dead animals in the road with this, smoked massive road heaves, scraped endless driveway entrances, and I can't say anything bad about it. It just works and with the 800/500 rates on the Xidas right now, I'm very happy with general ride quality.
  
  

You aren't the first to report this, which is why Haltech has been higher on my list of ECU's. Customer service sounds to be top notch overall, which is almost as important as the functionality of the part in some cases.

I'm working on my list right now to understand the "wants vs needs" for inputs/outputs. If there is any place that I see a compromise being made, I could see it being on the input side of things being taken up quickly, but I think there are reasonable work-arounds to get what I want.

The supply chain ordeal is its own completely independent issue, but as far as functionality of the PDM, I'm pretty happy with the feedback I've received both through miata people and other sources. Thanks to the King of the Bagger race series, I have some motorsports contacts through work that have all the AiM contacts I could possibly want to talk to if I had an issue or questions specifically surrounding AiM components. I've been taking advantage of that... Here's our 2022 race bike just for eye candy..


I've heard of a few rare cases like this where the software is limiting, but I can't think of one scenario in my build plan that I'd run across this situation myself. My uses are pretty simple in nature overall and the K.I.S.S logic will apply

flier129

iTrader: (7)

I looked at PDM pricing and a couple of different options. The custom harnesses/wiring has kept me away..... I just can't afford it right now.

PDM32 + 1500 is a solid option, AiM has tons of features, lots of add-ons, and is easy to use. Though that Smarty Cam is pretty expensive compared to a GoPro and exporting csv data and then using RaceRender to overlay it. Also, this puts the ECU separate from the PDM, so there's not a "single point" of access for the car components.

Nexus R5 + MXL2/MXG is also a solid option. As I already have an MXL2 it's my top contender. PDM, ECU all in all is super appealing plus canbus with the AiM is super easy and tons of the same add-ons.

Either way, the options are expensive either in time, money, and/or both


I find myself day-dreaming about kswapping and turboing my street car, so I can see where you're coming from. The racecar is a different purpose altogether, but with that speed I'd be having a hard time not putting a cage into it or maybe a 3/4 cage like Passey did once upon a time. The DCT will be awesome, I think you should do that for sure. I haven't heard many good things about the Getrag other than it can hold power. Aaron at WF(whom I trust greatly as a driver for feedback) has mentioned the diff is horrible for a handling standpoint. Particularly on entry and even on exit. What about an FC TII diff?

Padlock

Same, hence why its good talking about now before I spend anything!

There's no hiding that the Smarty Cam is expensive, but I like the integration aspect of it (and I guess that's its sell point). Pretty much the only reason why I own a GoPro is for in-car video recording, so having the capability to add a Smarty Cam in (even if I don't purchase it right away) would be nice.

No matter what path I go down here, I can't seem to get to a "single point" of access for the car. There's going to be at least 2 points of access no matter how I arrange this based on current product offerings that I've found.

Nexus R5 is cool and makes lots of sense for a more minimalist track car. Unfortunately, I'm still limited to 16 channels on that setup which simply won't work for me. A PD16 can be added to a Nexus R5 if additional channels are needed, but that gets quite a bit more expensive than the PDM32 + 1500 setup would be.

I wouldn't be opposed to a 3/4 cage like Passey, but how do you effectively do that with retaining power windows (or windows at all for that matter)? When you get into effective side impact protection like Passey had (Nascar style door bars), you are making a firm commitment to the track car life based on the glass window compromise on its own. Maybe it's possible that one could make a mild Nascar bar that still clears the power window components, but I've not stared at and measured the doors and chassis enough to know if there would be space for that concept.

FWIW, I don't have any interest in the bolt-in door bar options as they seem like more of an injury risk than a benefit given how close the bars are already to your hips/legs.

Be careful with your words or you'll anger all the Germans... The 8HP isn't a DCT, rather it's a standard torque converter auto made by ZF that can shift nearly as fast as a DCT. One of the big issues that I've ran across on swapping the BMW DCT's to 4cylinders (especially those with balance shaft deletes like I have) appears to be the requirement to run a special sprung flywheel between the clutch baskets and the engine, which dampens the second order vibrations that typically aren't seen on v8 or i6 engine layouts. If you don't have this sprung flywheel, those vibration issues wreak havoc on your clutch baskets (ie: some reasonings for SuperK with ASM being on DCT number 7 or 8 now??)

The above is a big part of the reasoning that I'm trending to feel that an 8HP is superior in my application to basically any other offering (including the 7spd BMW DCT). With how expensive the KPI ZF 5spd kit is ($3100 + Trans + Clutch), I'm reasonably confident that I could get an 8HP setup into the car for another $2k over that (most of which is due to costs associated to the addition of a trans cooler, CAN keypad, and paddle shifter kit). As most who've been in this position are aware, once you are down the ugly cost rabbit hole, the additional $2k isn't an end of the world thing if it would make the car faster and more consistent.

I trust Aaron's comments as well, but that said, what would he recommend in replacement? Have you ever gotten that level of feedback from him?

I do like the "junkyard find" aspect of the Getrag so it would be nice to not require going too exotic on the rear end, but in the same light, it's good to know what's out there to weigh options. Quick change differentials like Rad Ryan is doing this off-season are neat (and may have a better LSD offering), but seem completely overkill (even for the fanciness that I'm talking about here) as I don't plan to need to switch out rear gears ever given the pile of ratios the 8spd transmission would have.

Is the FC TII any better than a Getrag from a handling perspective? Not sure who I could reach out to that has this experience first-hand...

Padlock

Pasting this information here from Passey's thread on 8.8 vs Getrag diff LSD things. Ryan appears to make comments on the Getrag not being ideal when bouncing off curbs as well.
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...5/#post1492791

flier129

iTrader: (7)

IIRC Aaron said "I'm still waiting for a diff to come around that's better so I can drive my V8 car again"

I drove a buddy's NA turbo with the FC TII diff at AMP on R7s. I think it did great, even let me back into T1 a couple of times without much drama, like a good torsen would.

codrus

I'm guessing you haven't used both options. There is no comparing them -- GoPro + RaceRender is cool for making the occasional video that you want to upload to youtube to share with people, but it's much too labor-intensive to use for anything beyond that. SmartyCam is useful for driver development because EVERY lap is recorded and EVERY lap has data on it. You get out of the car after the session, pull the memory card out, pop it into your laptop and you're reviewing data+video a minute later.

--Ian

flier129

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I've used and seen both. Post-GLTC races are always neat with people comparing, several have the SmartyCam. Just saying there's some $$$ to save up front with another option to do. I could get GoPro videos overlaid with RaceRender within ~15 minutes(rendered). Takes some effort, but that's the trade-off, effort for $$.

Another platform to consider for data comparison is firelaps.com , although hard to replace video review overall.

Padlock

firelaps is a cool concept if you have reasonable data to compare to from people in the same class, but as an HPDE driver perspective, comparing my time/speed data to someone else's car (likely in another class) doesn't hold a ton of value as the capabilities of the cars being compared isn't the same.

I guess what it does show is what the fast line should be regardless of car differences, so there's merit in that, but studying video will get you the same answer without the monthly/annual subscription.

Padlock

Been doing more research into standalone GCU's for the 8HP. As mentioned previously, it appears there are two main players in this game that I can find: Turbolamik (TL) and HTG.


Turbolamik is both a blessing and a curse in how the software is setup up as of me writing this tonight. It appears that swaps are successful (might be more user friendly to set up), but the documentation available on this software is next to nothing. I reached out to corelaw from UK (guy with the K24 8HP swapped NC in the YT video above), and still am learning about this TL GCU from him. From what I gather so far, the TL GCU is a black box where you can adjust some predetermined shift values in the software, but it lacks getting into the details (details that I, as the nerdy engineer, want to know AND control). These values appear to work reasonably well on upshifts, but there is no support for throttle blips on downshifts, which is a huge miss. They are supposedly working on a software update to allow for TPS signal modification to get throttle blips, but that timing hasn't been made clear to anyone. Having a throttle blip on downshift is an absolute requirement for my car's use case as I need to rely on smooth rev-matched shifts when at the limit of tire grip during braking zones... so in short, I'll be watching the TL GCU with caution


Now on the flipside, let's chat about HTG..


HTG historically appears to had been behind the "software curve" compared to TL for the last couple of years. They only offered open loop tuning and limited documentation/guidance on where to start for "base tunes" if you want to call it that, so it has been a steep learning curve for many users (hence the popularity of the TL GCU relatively speaking). Relatively recently, the 1.1.1 firmware for the HTG GCU has become available which has substantial improvements to the end user, namely by offering closed loop tuning. Software can detect shift flares and adjust prefill, pressures, and ramp times accordingly. Starting at low loads, you just keep running through gears (and adjusting simple shift firmness desires) until you get the type of shift you are happy with. The HTG GCU is also completely capable of intercepting the TPS signal to do throttle blips, which is a big win.

Seems Legit Garage appears to be becoming a US distributor for the HTG products. Here you can see them talking about the new firmware updates throughout this video. Comments around closed loop control and how much easier it is to dial in have been made apparent at the 5min mark. The BMW they are tuning in the video is one that is ran at Gridlife events, so I've got more confidence that they are using this car the same way I'd intend to use mine. I've been emailing them to confirm further details about this HTG GCU and truly how easy it really is... For what it's worth, I know ASM is using HTG software on SuperK as well, but that's on a DCT so controlling is a bit different even if the software is the same.

The other recent development from HTG is, they have a Wiki page to help with setting the GCU up, troubleshooting possible issues you may run across, and how to tune it (with guidance on some starting values). It could definitely still use some editing with additional screenshots, but the documentation here is infinitely better than what you'll find with TL (which is nothing). You can find instructions on how to get it to communicate properly with a Haltech 1500 which is very handy for what I'm looking into.
https://wiki.htg-tuning.com/#t=HTG_G...%2FTuning.html

In summary, with more research, I'm starting to revert back on some of my initial feelings and believe that HTG could be the right play here.

Padlock

Getting closer to spring, so might be time for an update here. Salt is still on the roads, so it'll be probably another 3-4 weeks before I get the car out of storage, but I haven't touched it since putting it away in October. Only real plans for it are to swap back to the 5spd once I make space in the garage again.

Still paying close attention to how 8HP transmission control offerings are looking, but its not the hottest thing on my radar. CANTCU is another offering that I've found with some solid benefits over the Turbolamik and HTG controllers. https://www.canformance.net/product/...on-controller/ Not looking to be a guinea pig with this project so I'm just patiently watching everyone else light their money on fire and report feedback out instead.

Snagged a set of Singular upper fender vents from the group buy and also have a set of spare fenders to cut apart. Going to see if I can whip up another incremental improvement as far as aero is concerned while still being within the bounds of the rulebook I plan to run in


Most of the life updates lately don't have anything to do with the miata specifically. We bought the RV about this time last year and had a few key realizations after our first year of RV ownership. 34' is far too big for what we reasonably need as a general vacation & track support vehicle. When at our destination, we spend far less time inside of the RV than we thought, so having the space inside isn't really needed as it becomes more of a restriction than a benefit. There are a pile of restrictions on various small roadways once you get above 30'+ (tail of the dragon to name one specifically) and storage can be more challenging (and expensive) at those longer lengths. It's also worth noting that an RV this long with a car trailer won't even fit in our driveway, so that was a problem. Class A's are also a bit odd, because the only place that will work on them (if you do have issues) is an RV place, which are relatively rare. Commercial vehicle repair shops don't take them in, and general car dealerships don't either. Thankfully, I didn't really need to worry about this, but with Class C vehicles, you can get general car dealerships to work on them as many times they are based on the 1 ton full size chassis from the given domestic manufacturer (normally GM or Ford). Parts are also much more common and wiring diagrams are easier to find as well. Lot of benefits with Class C as I've found overall.

So we ended up selling the RV for essentially exactly what we had in it (yay, playing the inflation game!) and may be in the market for something smaller (~22 foot class C) at some point this year if we find the right deal. Off she goes to the new owner!


Which brings us to the next fun (semi-related?) point. The avalanche was a little too small when we'd travel with the kid and 2 dogs and all the associated stuff to various family/weekend events.. Friend of mine was looking for something just like it, so I cut him a deal and snagged an oddly similar vehicle with more interior space (a 2013 Suburban LTZ). I have oddly specific taste when it comes to wheels on these trucks I guess...


Part of the reason for a suburban was the fact I could transfer the headlights and foglights that I built for the avalanche in February over as a direct swap (and I just really liked the avalanche)... So now the burb has an obnoxiously amazing LED projector headlight setup on it like you'd expect from me with some diode dynamic ss3 3000k fog lights that can be used in poor weather conditions.


And because I can't leave anything alone.... and because I miss the sound of the CTS-V's from days past.... I can't leave this nice 'burb alone. It's on the higher mileage side of things (229k baby!), so lifter failure is more a question of "when" rather than "if". It seemed like a prime opportunity to order a cam, valve springs, DOD delete, LS7 lifters, and longtubes for it... Hoping to install those in the next week to assert my masculine dominance in the parade of minivans in child drop-off line for school.



...and I'm completely out of order here, but I did snag a snowmobile in January, so that's been fun to get back into a hobby outside of "just cars" again. I wasn't really looking for one, but a friend's family member was selling it for a "you'd be stupid not to buy this" price. Its a 2007 Arctic Cat F6. Not exactly the fastest sled on the lake for its displacement, but it's a great value for what I paid for it and as comfortable as they come.


So yeah, hopefully by time I post next, I can show you all a nice suburban tow pig chopping like Paul Bunyan at idle.

Padlock

Had an eventful Easter weekend... Started it off by getting the cam installed on the truck.. Took about 11hrs total of messing around. Now working through some exhaust leaks due to shitty clamps provided with the longtubes and then detailing through the tune.

She sounds quite healthy though now, thats for certain

https://youtube.com/shorts/iy_tn5HGzgw?feature=share

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

baggers on the track make me lol

Padlock

Its a pretty cool series to watch overall... from a lap time perspective, they are right in the same neighborhood as the mid-pack 1000cc supersport guys, so it's pretty impressive with what both HD and Indian teams have been able to do with bikes that initially had no business being on track. With a bit more development, I wouldn't be surprised to see them get closer to the podium times of 1000cc supersports. The series is still very young, so there's a lot of development to go unlike supersport which is pretty mature.

Padlock

Been waiting on these for a hot minute...

Padlock

Didn't make it out to MATG this year as life continues to make other plans for me (have been completing a pile of home improvement projects), but have been enjoying just driving the car around for what it's worth. Here's a small photo dump with a bit of a story.

Got it cleaned up in the garage and back on all 4's. Been mostly driving it around for miscellaneous errands, work commuting, and being the "cool dad" driving the kiddo to summer camp.


The late night parking lighting on the wrap just hits different.


A prime example of "you vs the guy she tells you not to worry about". It's wild to think that this car started out just like the red one some ~6 years ago.


Went to a local "track attack" event where they take a paved oval track and make a glorified figure 8 out of it and time it like autox. Took this as an opportunity to figure out the wrong way to turn a Wilwood proportioning valve as showcased by this wonderful smoke show of a photo.

Once I realized my simple mistake, the braking zones got much more manageable for logical reasons. I also had an idle issue develop and made a slight tweak to the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body to resolve it. Not sure what changed to need that, but the screw fixed it.

Overall, the event wasn't really ran all that well, classes are a bit goofy, and the competition was a bit underwhelming. By design, they have a 1-lap shootout at the end of the night for the top 3 finishers on the 6 timed runs prior. Frankly, I just didn't feel like waiting until the end of the night for one more run, so I ran home early. It ended up boiling down to, a friend of mine placed first in his very well sorted Kswap S2K and second place went to a nicely prepped Saturn Sky for the 4 cylinder class. Both of them had tons of experience on this course, where, on the flip side, it was my first time there. Had I stayed for the shootout, I'm confident I could have nestled into second place and beat the Sky out, but I'm not too heartbroken about any of it and happy with how the car performed overall as I was knocking the rust off myself. 3rd place out of 40-some cars isn't a bad showing all things considered.


The next day, I came into the office with a new "track car buddy" to park next to. I still need to figure out who owns this car, but it's nice knowing that I am not the only questionable person to drive their track build to work... it creates a lot of interesting conversation most days



Would really like to get it out on the big track, like it was built for, at some point this year, but we will see what happens. For as much as I love the car hobby, taking a little bit of a break and focusing on other projects has been net positive for my mental health (and check book ).

Padlock

Can't believe that I forgot to mention this, but here is a very proud career accomplishment that's taken a lot of free time and overall bandwidth away from the kmiata and something I couldn't talk about much over the last 2.5 years (until now). As you may have read here prior, I work full-time for Harley Davidson on the powertrain design team where I specifically focus on cooling system design. In July, we launched our new CVO touring bikes for 2023. I was solely responsible for the full cooling system on these newly refreshed models along with an assortment of other components related to the cooling system (ie, body panels, grille, etc), all of which were completely revamped from anything prior. As a part of that role, I also played a heavy part in all of the thermal validation, CFD, & FEA testing on these things throughout the development process.

long hours and stress aside, it is so f***ing cool (pun intended) seeing something you worked so hard on out in the world for millions of people to now enjoy. As a gear head, regardless if you like/own/hate the brand or not, it doesn't feel a whole lot better than this to talk about. I got to spend a fair number of work days taking these out on private track days to benchmark/evaluate, and even got to see a pile of pre-production automobiles from other manufacturers at some of the test facilities that we rent track time at. How neat is that? Pretty neat if you ask me...



For the fellow engineers here reading this, part of the secret sauce in the newly updated and improved cooling system is the revamped precision cooled heads. The new 121ci powertrain has a host of improvements from models prior, but from my cooling system perspective it is still a mix of air and water cooling, with more emphasis and effort put into the water than ever before. Below is a cutaway of the head where you can see the water jacket through the head running in an "S" shape around the exhaust valves to keep valve seat, spark plug bases, and overall combustion chamber temps down without physically passing coolant through the head gasket. This passageway is much larger than before, which allows for a lot more coolant flow than before. More flow means that it can pull a lot more heat than before, which has proven to be a huge benefit to the powertrain performance overall by reducing likelihood of knock and allowing us to bump compression up substantially, all while reducing emissions, increasing rider comfort levels, and maintaining the classic look that sells these bikes. Oh, and I also reduced part count by like 50% and saved a pile of money compared to our other precision cooled head design... It's kind of an "all wins" situation, which is rare to achieve in a world of compromises.


As if all the above wasn't enough going on, my wife and I are happily expecting twins at the end of this year. One was planned, but two was a definite surprise. Baby prep is in full swing along with all the needed outdoor's projects to "get done before the twins arrive". It's been nice getting a pile of home projects done that otherwise may have been shelved another year (or two or three)

So yeah, this all probably shines a bit more light as to why the kmiata hasn't been moving much... I'll get back to it eventually LOL

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Whether people like it or not, Harley is an iconic brand, and to have your work cemented in history on a final production model is pretty ******* cool.

And congrats on the dual kiddos on the way!