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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 12:25 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by AdoboMiata
It came with the kit already :[. no extra charge..
If you remove it you either save $100 or $150. So no, it's not free, and if you think you need an RFPR with MS you seriously need to stop posting and start reading.
Old Aug 12, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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I test drove the car yesterday and checked out everything. The fuel pressure gauge reads 60psi. Hm.. seems like I need a stronger fuel pump. Lastly, after getting back from the drive, my car was spiting coolant. It's coming from the heater hoses. Should I bypass it? I don't mind not having a heater in my car (considering it's always warm or hot in Hawaii)
Old Aug 12, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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Was it spitting coolant before? If not find what you screwed up.
Old Aug 12, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by triple88a
Was it spitting coolant before? If not find what you screwed up.
It wasn't. Alright.
Old Aug 12, 2012 | 04:25 PM
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MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

I'll be installing my mspnp next week when I purchase a laptop. I don't have a usb adapter that reaches all the way to my desktop lol. From reading many people's posts and threads, I'm guessing I will need to invest on a timing light .
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #66  
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You definitely need a laptop. You gotta be able to tune in the car. On my model the ecu is by the driver foot well so i had to buy an extension cable and sneak it all around to the passenger seat.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #67  
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Just buy a long serial cable, no laptop needed.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:30 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by albumleaf
Just buy a long serial cable, no laptop needed.
No laptop needed? how do you plan on updating your map, by running to your house every time? Or do you plan on running the car like its running like ****? No laptop no logs either so you're stuck with your memory which is shared between the road as well.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by triple88a
No laptop needed? how do you plan on updating your map, by running to your house every time? Or do you plan on running the car like its running like ****? No laptop no logs either so you're stuck with your memory which is shared between the road as well.
Lol, calm down. I think that person was just trying to tease my noob-ness. haha
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by triple88a
No laptop needed? how do you plan on updating your map, by running to your house every time? Or do you plan on running the car like its running like ****? No laptop no logs either so you're stuck with your memory which is shared between the road as well.


OP, IMO a cheap laptop (like.. old, windows xp, $50) that has a serial port is the best bet. It's nice to have a shitty laptop that you can just leave in the car and not worry about.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by albumleaf


OP, IMO a cheap laptop (like.. old, windows xp, $50) that has a serial port is the best bet. It's nice to have a shitty laptop that you can just leave in the car and not worry about.
I used to use an old school laptop. 32 mb of ram, running windows 2000 pro that i got from my highschool for free. It did good enough job for tunning however it was way too slow to take any worthy logs which made tunning at WOT more difficult. Half a second space between each entry is worthless. If you're getting a laptop don't just get a garbage laptop from the stoneage, get an average laptop.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by triple88a
I used to use an old school laptop. 32 mb of ram, running windows 2000 pro that i got from my highschool for free. It did good enough job for tunning however it was way too slow to take any worthy logs which made tunning at WOT more difficult. Half a second space between each entry is worthless. If you're getting a laptop don't just get a garbage laptop from the stoneage, get an average laptop.
If you can't find an old P4 based mobile chip laptop for $50 there's something seriously wrong. Maybe even an older Core series for $100. I have a eight year old Dell that runs TS just fine.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #73  
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I picked up a $20 laptop from my local goodwill. Then it was $10 for the power cable. It came with a real serial port and ran Windows XP a bit slowly. TS worked fine on the laptop.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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This thread is full of love and snuggles... what's happened?.

Also, pics or it didn't happen
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 05:17 PM
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^ seriously I've just been waiting for the ban
Old Aug 14, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by albumleaf
If you can't find an old P4 based mobile chip laptop for $50 there's something seriously wrong. Maybe even an older Core series for $100. I have a eight year old Dell that runs TS just fine.
Sadly most people on cragslist think their garbage is worth nearly as much as a brand new laptop with 6 times the stats.
Old Aug 14, 2012 | 06:19 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by rhysmate
This thread is full of love and snuggles... what's happened?.

Also, pics or it didn't happen
I guess I have no use for this then.


A shot when it was finished:


MSPnP- updated: IAT sensor came in


I need to fabricate the piping for my Intercooler and create a mount for it. I probably will end up using some ebay piping (any recommendations on who to purchase it from on ebay?) and some home depot/lowes/city mill brackets
Attached Thumbnails Installing Shanghai-S kit tomorrow..help?-557414_483771738299605_1155263485_n.jpg   Installing Shanghai-S kit tomorrow..help?-557327_482750211735091_2065324420_n.jpg   Installing Shanghai-S kit tomorrow..help?-182154_481564508520328_703089535_n.jpg  
Old Aug 14, 2012 | 06:32 AM
  #78  
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I'm thinking of removing the heater core. One of the hoses are torn and the bracket is slightly bent (which makes the hose lean on a sharp edge on the frame of the car). Has anyone done it? How did you do it?
Old Aug 14, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #79  
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[QUOTE=AdoboMiata;915032]I guess I have no use for this then.


why dont you need this????? thats a blow off valve!
Old Aug 14, 2012 | 10:33 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by AdoboMiata
I'm thinking of removing the heater core. One of the hoses are torn and the bracket is slightly bent (which makes the hose lean on a sharp edge on the frame of the car). Has anyone done it? How did you do it?
What bracket? The hoses going into the heater core can be linked together to bypass it, I think there's a recommendation to introduce some kind of slight restriction. Not sure if un-altered flow directly through the heater hoses is a bad thing or not.
You'll have no heat in the winter if you by pass the core though. Can you re-straighten the brass coupling so it isn't rubbing the frame and get a new hose? That seems like the best non-halfassed method.



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