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Old 08-10-2012, 11:04 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
not unless it hits your new DP.
I am almost positive that it will hit the begi downpipe.
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:38 PM   #42
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Quote:
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not unless it hits your new DP.
crap.. alright..
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:12 PM   #43
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Its like I'm in the twilight zone... this thread is all full of rainbows, kittens and butterflies! <3
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:29 PM   #44
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So which side would be my water in/out and oil in?
Btw, I don't have any braided lines; only the oil out.

Right side:



Front View:



Left View:

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Old 08-10-2012, 02:39 PM   #45
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You need this: RTFM.
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:49 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
You need this: RTFM.
rtfm..


read the f. manual.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:01 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdoboMiata View Post
So which side would be my water in/out and oil in?
Btw, I don't have any braided lines; only the oil out.

Right side:



Front View:



Left View:

When looking at the CHRA which is the center section of the turbo. The large hole that is not threaded is the oil drain hole. It probably fits a -8an line on it. The fitting on the other side from the large hole is the oil in. The water in and out are on the other 2 sides. It does not matter which one you use for in and out.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:15 PM   #48
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Get yourself some real penetrating oil. WD-40 is for women. Men use Kroil or PB Blaster.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:22 PM   #49
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Top is oil feed, bottom is drain. Sides are antifreeze, doesn't matter in/out on that one.

A little advice on installing the downpipe to the turbo-Once the studs are on the turbo, slide the dp over the studs but don't seat it against the turbo until you get all the washers/nuts started. There is no way to install the inner bottom-most nut unless you do it this way.

BTW, I can see this thread reaching about 20 pages before the car runs again. New Fael?
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:46 PM   #50
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Is this correct? I left the tiny port on the right open. There's no vacuum line for it.

update:



The in line is on the left and the out is on the right.
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:48 PM   #51
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??
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:23 PM   #52
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Well, what do the directions say? They should tell you which is which.

As for that empty hose barb, I think it's supposed to have a small length of vacuum hose attached to a check valve, although things might of changed since I had one.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:57 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Well, what do the directions say? They should tell you which is which.

As for that empty hose barb, I think it's supposed to have a small length of vacuum hose attached to a check valve, although things might of changed since I had one.
Only came with 1 vacuum hose..
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:26 PM   #54
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Why install the FP riser when you're going with MS?
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
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Why install the FP riser when you're going with MS?
Never knew it mattered..
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:21 PM   #56
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Yeah man. You could have excluded that from your kit and saved some cash.

Gotta read, man.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:44 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperormiata View Post
Yeah man. You could have excluded that from your kit and saved some cash.

Gotta read, man.
It came with the kit already :[. no extra charge..
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:22 AM   #58
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Wrong. You can customize the Begi kits to your own needs. If it's not listed on the site you can call them and they will change it for you. After 100 posts you should know that a rising rate regulator is not needed with standalone engine management. Even if it was free you shouldn't be using it.
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:23 AM   #59
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-___- okay
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Old 08-11-2012, 06:31 AM   #60
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Got it on:


Problems so far:
*O2 sensor is on but not snugged. It kept slipping off of the o2 bung on the down pipe,
*Need to add coolant
*Need to add oil
*Air filter & AFM bracket couldn't fit. The AFM is too FAT.

Update:
*IAT sensor w/ pigtail came in
*Will install mspnp next week so I could delete the FPR and AFM
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