Wait, there's a gasket for vband?

 

Problem solved. The bolt for timing belt idler pulley had backed out.

Sidenote: I officially dislike the dust covers for lack of ability to visually inspect shtuff.

I mean, ideally vbands don't need them. But when you don't want to pay to get a whole bunch of flanges resurfaced, yes, you can buy aluminum gaskets for vbands. It fixed my leak, no complaints.

 

I am officially running on corn juice.

Still returnless at the moment, but the duty cycles are gucci.

I is excite.

 

[Utag]Shuiend[/utag] will you be home this evening for me to grab that flywheel?

 

So, I bought a thing.

 

Print me a *****

 

I have yet to decide what signature item will be included with MT.net FS packages. It might be handled on a person by person basis.

 

Funny thing about this. I have some friends that run an.... adult novelty toy business, and this is litterally what they do. Print, make a mould and then cast them.

 

Car is now running a returned fuel system, still on E85.

I added the Ethanol sensor to the return line, though I haven't wired it up yet. I'm going to wire in EBC and the ethanol sensor sometime this week.

@aidandj does the ethanol sensor need to go all the way back to the sensor ground, or can I just ground it somewhere back by the sensor?

 

you are probably fine grounding it wherever. Its a pwm output, which won't really be affected by ground offset the way a 0-5v linear signal would be. Though you could pick up noise....I would ground it to the sensor ground to be safe. You should already have a 5vref, and a signal wire running there. just add another ground wire.

 

That's a very nice looking printer, proper leadscrews, cable carrys, and a steel frame?

China one? I see you've got the Y belt walk like I do too, boo...

 

10-4.

Running wires/hoses from the tank was a huge pita, so I'd rather only do it once lol. I'll just ground it at the sensor ground.

And it's 12V, not 5V.

 

Monoprice Maker Select. (Rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3)

But yes to all the above.

Here's a picture with the braces I was printing in the above picture installed.

I also printed a bracked to put an indicator on the X-Axis to use while leveling the bed.

I also put a sheet of borosilicate glass on top of the heated bed with thermal pads between the two, so now I don't have to mess with tape or rafts anymore.

 

Sounds pretty much exactly what I did, printed braces for the frame, then replaced the deck for glass and hairspray. I've got chunks of tape under various corners of glass to level my tweaked aluminum bed, too...

I've got height gauges for leveling the bed and X axis, but since I've swapped to glass I've not had a problem tweaking the frame and bed removing every stuck on print. I just pull the glass after every print or wait for it to pop off on it's own.

It's amazing what these things can do anymore. Glad I bought one!

 

I've certainly got quite a few bugs left to work out with mine, primarily bridging related, but I'm super pleased with the results for what I paid for it. I usually chuck the glass in the freezer because i'm impatient, and the parts come off suppppper easy.

 

Have you checked to see if you extrude a meter of filament when you ask for a meter? If it's over or under extruding bridging will pull too tight and break, or sag and get all stringy and shitty.

I don't really know what I'm doing though, kinda just worked out the box!

 

Did you use the 1/4" Evap line, or some form of 5/16"? I have been trying to locate a used supply line, but without success. Been thinking about just making my own.

 

I'm using the 1/4" evap line.

 

Took some pictures of the AFPR all installed and whatnot.

(@18psi, you may want to divert your eyes. The engine bay may need some cleaning...)

 

Someone find me a 2010 335i sedan with a manual transmission for sale, in the US. No xDrive.

No but seriously, I have not yet found one for sale since I've started looking.... It's kind of crazy. Everyone that wants the manual transmission wants the coupe.