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We've used a grinder and purposely added steel shavings to oil samples and they have tested negative for it a couple of times in the past, so I wouldn't put overwhelming faith in the testing.
I work for a heavy machinery dealership and we were trying to get a bad result so we could replace a component for a customer under warranty before it expired.
Welp, I know there arent any large shavings in mine but I guess that is good to know. Short of pulling the motor apart and inspecting it is there really any way to know?
Either way the car drives well, so I'll keep enjoying it until it doesnt
We've used a grinder and purposely added steel shavings to oil samples and they have tested negative for it a couple of times in the past, so I wouldn't put overwhelming faith in the testing.
I work for a heavy machinery dealership and we were trying to get a bad result so we could replace a component for a customer under warranty before it expired.
I've done the same thing before: mailed in a sample from a motor with blown head gasket, and got an "all looks good" result.
But there's really nothing else out there these days short of pulling it apart, so.............
I've done the same thing before: mailed in a sample from a motor with blown head gasket, and got an "all looks good" result.
But there's really nothing else out there these days short of pulling it apart, so.............
Originally Posted by Panici
Welp that's not confidence inspiring. I've heard good things about Blackstone for a long time, maybe they have gone downhill?
Put in the new master and slave from SuperMiata. Was good for a bit, but then seems like it needs to be bled some more. I just suck at it
Went to sequential ignition and absolutely no hesitation at +25psi now. This thing is a riot and just keeps pulling. I need to get this 4-port MAC tuned because I keep hitting cut at 280kpa, may increase this a bit. Anyone have tips for closed-loop tuning? I'd rather the controller undershoot the target because a change in 1 boost duty is enough to add 1-1.5 psi on the top end.
Oh and here are the taillights, they look sick. Just need some LEDs for the signals and plate lights
Thanks, I did use this guide from you and it was very helpful up until switching from setup mode to basic mode. I'll go back and keep reducing the slider (at about just under 150) right now. Maybe I'll try shooting for a boost target around 18-20psi so that I can see how much its actually oscillating.. right now I just hit boost cut even though my target is ~20kpa under
Was having some issues that some others thought may have been valve float due to the higher boost pressures (25+). I parked the car for winter and originally planned on only replacing the valve seals due to burning a lot of oil. Now I'll inspect the valves and seats and plan to upgrade to stiffer springs. Piston tops look great with zero signs of detonation, just a lot of buildup from burning oil
Well I've since sourced a BP4W with around 100k miles at a good price. Took it apart and brought it to the machine shop. They called and told me I can pick it up today so that I can clean up the castings before they do any machining. Said the valve guides were in spec, but I'll get numbers on that tomorrow. FSM and everywhere says 0.0012-0.0025" for exhaust and 0.0010-0.0023 for intake. Debating on doing new guides Manganese/Bronze, but not sure if it really needs it. How close to the end of the limits do people typically go when deciding to just replace? Car will probably only be tracked a few times a year but I do drive it pretty hard
Oh and new +1 intake, +1 Inconel exhaust, and heavy doubles
Injectors came back from cleaning and they are still in OEM spec, which is good. Did my best first time job cleaning up the castings on the head and dropped it back off at the machine shop last week
Goal was to just remove the casting flash and smooth down the abrupt transitions right below the seat. Intake I tried to keep a little rough, exhaust is a bit smoother. How bad did I do?
Got the head back from the machine shop a few weeks ago and rushed to get everything back together for my first track day of the year. Had some hiccups but overall it was a success and I was able to get it running with a base tune on it the day before the event.
Since then I've been slowly tuning and dialing in boost control. This head flows SO much better. Very conservative timing on E75 (highest I can find now), 17psi tapering to 15 and already I'm seeing 350+ on virtual dyno. I'm sure I'll break 400 once I get it together
Car has been running super well. Went to a pretty hot track day a few weeks back at Summit Main and the car got extremely hot (230 coolant/280 oil at sandwich). I had the boost turned down to around 16psi, but realistically I should have let it cool off some. Also had a scary moment coming into turn 9 and my brakes went straight to the floor... managed to save it with just a new pair of pants.
Since then I've added some Singular Motorsports V2 hood vents and a 25-row Setrab oil cooler
You're going to have to avoid hot track days altogether now with the oil cooler located there, I suspect that your radiator isn't going to get enough cool air now :(
Unfortunately there aren't too many options with NAs - on NBs at least they can be mounted behind and fed from fog-light vents.
I suspect that this is why FM mounted their oil cooler on the steering rack since it "works -sort-of" for NAs and NBs (air-air coolers need air to flow through them efficiently which means they should be perpendicular to the air flow).
Interesting... It's definitely running much colder overall, but it's hard to meet the stress of the track on the street. Maybe I can try moving it to the back side of the radiator, where the passenger fan usually sits.
The cooler was definitely necessary as the oil temp was unacceptable
If you put the oil cooler on the back of the radiator, you need to seal around the edges to ensure that the air coming off the radiator doesn't avoid the oil cooler. I thought I had a photo of mine on my thread but not so, so I will update it with one.
Another option is to use an oil/water heat exchanger on the radiator outlet as I did on my old racecar. Worked great, heated oil quickly, then kept it cool (ie not overheat). But you need a proper well-functioning cooling system to handle the extra heat. I'd use this system on the red car, but it gets complicated with turbo piping and a/c.
Thanks @Gee Emm, that seems like a solid solution. My ducting is probably poor so I'll start there and try to improve it.
I picked up some Sparco QRT-Rs with 6-point's. Would like to install these as well as replace front Wilwood rotors and fresh PFC pads all around. Track event this weekend that I'm pretty stoked about
Was burning a lot of oil after the last event, replaced all the (<200 mile) valve seals in the new BP4W head with new OEM and thats resolved. Small wins. Seriously think that the shop has been installing them wrong
Did not have time to work on the ducting before the event last weekend. Ran the car at full power this time and it still ran cooler than it did the prior time (oil temps <250F). New seats/harnesses make a world of difference on the track!
I did however blow up my transmission and roast my clutch trying to limp it home in traffic, but I did get promoted to intermediate class
Have a new 6-speed on the way, need to figure out which Clutchmaster to get to replace my fx350. Will probably keep the same flywheel and replace the friction surface.
Hey what's up man, nice build thread! Were you up at Shenandoah a month ago running in the TT group? Maybe not but there was a blue NA that looks similar to yours.
280 is a little hot but with good quality oil I've been told it's fine. The big concern I have with the higher temps is the pressure drop as temps rise. Although again with good oil it hopefully won't be too bad.
08-03-2022, 09:55 AM
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