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I'm not. The Kswap kit is absolutely nicer and higher quality. The ecotec kit is newer and is being tested thoroughly in crapcan endurance racing and has proven robust. It's already had some design iterations and is currently a fairly stable design. A team I've worked with just did this swap fairly quickly and was happy with the kit. The Kswap setup is a beautiful kit and clearly has great results.
LOL. Needs MOAR chrome bro. All that power is too lowbrow. I've heard that logic before and sell to that market group. I respect that position. I don't personally associate it with the Miata crowd. But that's cool. The other options are great if you really want the things the Kswap offers like beauty & sound. Those have value to most but isn't a focus for me.
lollllllllllll
Disregard flywheel adapter bolts shearing left and right. NBD.
Disregard flywheel adapter bolts shearing left and right. NBD.
Haven't heard about it or seen it. Tell me more. What was the failure diagnostic? What grade bolt? Where on the bolt was the sheer incident? Yield failure or fatigue? Some reference or thread for this? How many incidents? Where? If there is a real issue here, I'd like to make sure the team I work with knows the issue and we can look into it.
Not sure how Ive managed to miss this thread for all these years, especially since your local. I was in Mayport for a while, moved across the ditch a couple years back. lol
Car looks amazing. Great setup through and through.
Car has been down for a year and a half sitting at a shop waiting to get another engine built... of course I stupidly paid for the job in full so I could get those sweet sweet bonus points on my American Express card. Long story short I finally got my car back... still needs an engine built and I'm out almost $8,500. I'm now battling to get my money back but at least I can make some progress on this thing.
Holy crap man, that sucks. Did they just get paid in full and not even touch the car? WTF
No, so turns out they put standard bearings on the mains and rods when they needed to put .010 bearings on.. basically I had ZERO oil pressure and had to rebuild the engine correctly
I added a couple more things too:
Return style fuel system upgrade with a Fuellab Fuel pressure regulator, Improved Performance oil filter relocation with integrated thermostat, Wilwood Brake Master Cylinder and I upgraded to vibrant hard vacuum lines.
I guess I didn't update this thread earlier but I installed a V8roadsters front subframe and full control arm set right before the car went down as well.
Now I need to fix the damaged paint and fab new splitter mounting points
So it's been a while since I've updated but car was running great and ripping at the track. I just finished the Kmiata BMW E46 6-speed transmission swap and now I can't get the car to run..
It'll start up and ilde normal for a second or two and then die.. I don't know what I could have bumped or what could make the car doing that. Car ran fine before the transmission swap.
Engine is suspended by rubber with only a couple of straps carrying the ground connection for the starter, ignition, and alternator ground if that is the case. I'm only pointing it out because after I added the BMW transmission I did the same thing and ended up melting my fuse block and some of the wiring and destroying several circuits in my megasquirt.
Thank you for pointing that out, Steve. I tested the theory that the ground could be my issue by using a jumper cable and connecting it to the transmission and I was able to start the car like normal and rev without problems. I'll be making a new ground to the transmission this evening! Thanks again!
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