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Old 02-20-2012, 12:51 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
that car screams acid dip and respray, does it not?
Yes, but I won't do it. This is supposed to be a budget build. That said, I generally can't half-*** anything so I'm sure it will get worked over. When you see it with the good spare parts installed it will look much better. The doors and fenders took a rust beating. It spent it's running life on the east cost and 8-10 holes through the body work for each piece of trim will do that.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:05 AM   #62
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I've got a set of hex head screw drivers that work wonders for stubborn bolts- but your's are probably beyond anything I've ever come across.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:10 AM   #63
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I didn't think it was a realistic prospect, just that it would be a no-BS way to effectively clean it to the steel.

I think at worst you might need some wire wheeling in strategic locations but it did clean up pretty well. Forget for a moment that it started out white so every bit of dirt makes it look much worse.

Also, regarding the big head phillips, I feel your pain. An impact gun and big phillips drivers does amazing things.

Wikipedia tells me the phillips head is designed to F up the bit to prevent damage to the screw or work. That's probably why they used them--no way to properly torque the fasteners.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:07 AM   #64
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Lovely build.

So when your done with it you can swap V8 in it. Did it still have the gearlever next to steering wheel?

They'r much love'd in Finland and scandinavia, love'd child has many names as sex shuttle, kayak twins and so on.. They used to hot rod those with Ford Taunus 3.0 V6's, that way it became quite BMW killer for it's day...

Dont blink or you'll miss it..
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Old 03-01-2012, 12:57 AM
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:28 AM   #65
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Quote:
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I haven't worked on a 40 year old car. Ever. Even in my youth they weren't 40 years old.

Fasteners DO rust to the point that they will not come off and simply break

I hate the Swedes for not using hex head bolts and for using Phillips head bolts everywhere instead. The fenders, the doors, everything under the hood is held in place with Phillip head bolts. I'm sure some genius back in '68 thought they could speed up assembly using them but didn't think about maintenance in the field after a liberal application of road salt. It's bad enough trying to break free a 40 year old hex head. I actually took the front part off of my hammer-style impact driver for screws and used it on my regular impact for some larger #4 Phillips. Did you know that they make 5/16-18 bolts with a Phillips head? I didn't but I do now.
That's like me disassembling my last miata. ------- bolts ------- break all the ------- time son of a bitch when will this end.

I can't even imagine phillips head bolts
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:46 PM   #66
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Talking

Keeping it classy.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:37 PM   #67
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Top Gear's tribute last sunday made me even more glad you're doing this build.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:47 AM   #68
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Report for today. Everything that can be removed has been removed. As of tonight here is a very large hole in the firewall and the floor. I did not photograph it. It is a hole. Get over it. That is all.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:27 AM   #69
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great build!!! looking forward for this
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:47 AM   #70
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Who is up for an east coast build?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/2868762690.html

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1968 Saab - $1000
Date: 2012-02-24, 2:22PM EST
1968 light blue 4 cyl 2dr Saab Delux Sedan with a little over 60,000 miles on it
$1000 or best offer. Please contact by email if interested.


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Old 03-05-2012, 10:02 AM   #71
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That thing looks comparatively clean. Buy it for $800 and you can recoup some $ selling the drivetrain and end up with a better shell than me. Motor/trans will sell for about $400.

In my case I didn't heed my own advice which was to start with the nicest donor that you can find. A couple hundred bucks goes a long way with these cars. If mine hadn't been an hour away I wouldn't be doing this swap.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:22 PM   #72
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Bought some RX7 550's today, lol. Drivetrain isn't even in and the budget build has started. I'm excited because I get to try Megasquirt this time. Had Adaptronic on the 99 so this will be fun. Now I'll be able to post up my msq or whatever it's called and Hustler will be able to tell me that I'm not running crap for timing.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:41 PM   #73
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I neglected to report that I have made progress. Y'all know that I'm bad about taking pics. I'll shoot some tonight. I should have the Miata floor installed.

Why the floor?

Because the subframe bolts to the footwells in two places on each side. I need the floor roughly in place, bolt in the subframe, then I can position the subframe/floor combo forewards and aft which will position the center of the front hubs in the center of the wheel wells.

The existing firewall is at least 2" behind where I need it to end up so I will have no issues related to tying everything into the rest of the car.

An interesting tidbit:

When I cut out the floor from the Miata I cut it as large as I could. It ended up being 50" wide at the front footwells. 50" back was as far rearwards that I could cut it out before hitting the rear bulkhead. At that place it is 46.5" wide. When I measured the SAAB where the floor is going to drop in, it's 50" wide at the front and 46.5" wide 50" back. The floor pans are exactly the same size.

I wish I hadn't sectioned it. After measuring the door, I tack welded the floor and tunnel back together. It was a bit difficult for one person but I got the whole thing into the car in one piece. It dropped right in where I need it.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:47 PM   #74
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pics or die.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:23 PM   #75
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lol brain is getting antsy
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:50 PM   #76
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Skipping right to death? Whatever happened to ban?
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:00 PM   #77
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Steppingg up my game
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:37 AM   #78
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OK, OK, I want to avoid certain death. Some pics of today's progress.

Very large hole where floor used to be.



Floor set in place where it will end up permanently.




I have since removed the floor, prepped the SAAB floor for welding and tack welded the firewall back onto the floor. The floor will still fit through the hole in the floor from the bottom up with the firewall in place. The nice thing is that I can finish weld it outside of the car where access is easier. In addition it really tightened up the floor so it doesn't splay out sitting over that large gap.

Picking up a roll of .025" wire and some tips for the MIG tomorrow. I have .035" in the welder now and it's no good for sheet metal.
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Miata Drivetrain in a SAAB 96-img-20120306-00118.jpg   Miata Drivetrain in a SAAB 96-img-20120306-00116.jpg   Miata Drivetrain in a SAAB 96-img-20120306-00115.jpg  
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:53 AM   #79
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holy crap this is brilliant.

my friend trying to miata swap a triumph spitfire NEEDS to see this.
sending link now lol
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:02 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
holy crap this is brilliant.

my friend trying to miata swap a triumph spitfire NEEDS to see this.
sending link now lol
My dilema is how far to carry it. I've added the firewall to carry all of the pedals, plus grommets for wiring harnesses, etc and the HVAC system if I want. Then I was carrying through the front frame rails to pick up the front subframe mount. THEN I figured, why not keep the stock shock pockets in place? It now appears that I could keep the entire Miata fender UNDER the existing fender. We will see.

I also cut out the entire rear center section of the car that holds the rear subframe and the gas tank. I just have to watch weight. It's easy to add weight when grafting in other parts.
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