I don't know. This is the first dyno I've been to that was actually measuring manifold boost. Doesn't seem like it should do that. I wonder if I'm getting some belt slip. Kinda weird though.

It looks like boost is about 7.5 PSI. You have an 80mm pulley don't you? I would have thought you'd be at about 10 PSI with the 80mm. How do they monitor boost PSI during the dyno?

They had a hose hooked to a barb on the intake manifold.

I was surprised by 7.5psi as well. At 6800rpm the blower is at about 105k. Don't have enough data points to know if that's lower than expected (the psi).

Wouldn't the power be more illustrative of 7.5 PSI though? I would think 10 PSI out of a Rotrex on a VVT NB2 would yield more than 200 whp.

Oh yeah 7.5/200 seems in agreement. It seems to me I should be seeing more than 7.5 though.

I am very curious to see boost numbers with the new head. It should go down, because more flow everywhere. Probably won't see that before January though.

Best quote evar.

the race to 200whp between Mobius and Curly continues...

I should have told him to do a run to fuel cut.

Yes, I agree, but the used kit I bought gives me about 8 PSI (on my cheap gauge), when it is right at redline (that may be one reason Mobius did not register more boost), but I have an 85mm pulley. I'm more questioning the fact that Mobius is at 7.5 with the smaller pulley. I was expecting about 10 PSI from that pulley (probably Mobius was also). There seem to be a lot of variables. The guy I bought my kit from got 197 WHP and 162 WT at 8.6 pounds of boost with a dyno run to only 6,900 RPM so I seem to get less boost than he did with the variable being a different car (and maybe a shitty install!!)

Mobius could you have a leak somewhere? and how would we find that if we wanted to check?

Martin! Call ER, time for 2 more psi.

I could have a leak. Possibly the recirculation valve is bad. I will check everything with compressed air when it goes into the garage for upgrades.

At the moment the priority is to get the beer brewing stuff reassembled and get a batch of my Dunkel brewed.

Yes, keep your priorities in the right order!

Good call. I need to make something to get me through the "winter"

Got some dunkelweizen brewed. Twice, in fact, since the first batch was my "hey I'm brewing again after a 10 year hiatus" and there were some, umm, temperature control issues during mash. So it came out 3.1% alcohol instead of 5. SESSION BEER! Second batch came out at the target 5.1 %.

Beer stuff is now all put away though. I got a package awhile back from some dude named Dimitris, and just today I got a big package from some dude named Emilio Cervantes. Dunno what's in it. Maybe I'll check it tomorrow. Got this whole family thing I have to manage and "put first." Whatever. Dunno WTF is up with that. Like my kids are important or something. GOSH.

I have added to the List of Things To Be Done: Trackspeed Oil Cooler.

Richard why you no finish original oil cooler project?

I am concerned about the oil throughput of the cooler I chose and I am also concerned about having fluid flow external to the frame rails. So I have decided to move a different direction.

Are you doing something different than the TSE oil cooler on my car? Rx-7 core behind front bumper?

That's not a tse oil cooler, it's just sourced by tse using an rx7 core. They have their own kit now.

undahstood.

Wait, did you buy the one from the Theseus partout?

I did. Ed's car's previous owner had TSE install the same setup.

Who, me? No, mine came with the car.

As a data point Ive never seen a dyno run without a map reading on the manifold on a turbo car.

The pile of parts is growing. Head, MS3, front arms received. Waiting on TSE oil cooler and skunk2 throttle body.

I've had a number of people ask me about the Marrad seat and/or how I mounted my harness with it. So, pics. I use the oem 3point on the street, just take the receiver off of your NB seat and mount it onto the provided location on the marrad seat. The doorside lap belt uses the oem bolt alongside the oem belt.

And do not use random hardware store hardware to mount your harness. Grade 8 please. This is Schroth hardware.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1419019752
Lap belt door side


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1419019752
Lap belt tunnel side


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1419019752
sub belt interior


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1419019752
sub belt exterior


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1419019752
shoulder harness wrap. The extra webbing is rolled into a ball and ziptied.

Neat! I like the little tab thing, that's kinda clever. Sounds like someone is making progress!

Also, lol @ dunkel ;) I've not brewed since last spring so I know the feeling.

CNC head? Arms? WAT? Please to be explaining. :party:

Richard, it looks like your tunnel bolt is a metric 8.8. That's ~ SAE Grade 5. The SAE Grade 8 "equivalent" in metric is 10.9. FYI.

Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart

Huh. Ok. I'll get that fixed.

G I announced it all in post #166. You even replied to it, you dorkus.

Yes CNC head. +1 valves w/sub. Stock cams. V8R lower control arms for teh camber.

That sounds like me.
Woo! We head bros now! Except I didn't order subs. I'm also having them put my 5A cam in it :bigtu: What was your turn around time on the head, if you don't mind me asking.
Didn't bbundy break like 3 sets of those or something? I'm not super duper impressed with some of the V8R stuff out there. Their LSx oil pans for instance...

I've seen pictures of cracked V8R LCAs. The ones I saw were all tubular. They've changed the design since then. Latest design uses shear plates in the problem areas. Hopefully they're OK.

Yah right that.

My head order to deliver time was ~12 weeks. About what I expected.

Always looking for more head bros! :D

Progress
 

I haz lots of stuff in boxes and am finally making progress on the car. Should get the head off in the next couple of days and get it shipped back to Emilio.

It always surprises me how much time the little fiddly stuff takes to get on/off. I know my car has everything, so there's lots of fiddly stuff, because #NOTREALRACEKAR, but still.

Thinking of doing a comparison series of shots to show exactly how the cnc head differs, is that of interest to anyone?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1420075353

Yes.

And we can compare it to my CNC'd 4W :party:

BTW, I usually use my hoist to pull the head. That way, I can leave almost everything in place on the intake and exhaust side and do final disassembly on the bench with good access for air tools. Saves time/back.

Richard will be using the slave labor of peasants to pull the head.

We call them "voluntolds" ;)

Wanna make sure I got this right: you wanna get together and compare heads?

:giggle:

Specifically, they want to measure their heads. And take pictures.

The Miata Docs Folder of Mobius

FSM for: 99-00, 01, and MSM.

Sumatta, youjelly?

Missing the Engine Workshop Manual, but I'll get you hooked up eventually :bigtu:

Posting for future reference.

For myself that is

One step forward, Two steps back
 

Stuff happened in my garage today.


BUT FIRST

Gordon, really, you want to compare heads with me? Really? You know yours can't go as high as mine.

Anyway, to the pics!

V8 Roadsters Current Generation Front Lower Control Arms.
Might I say, they are kinda sexy. Built stronk like Rosie the Riviter!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420350888

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1420349864

Old head was removed, and the innards exposed. Yes, it ran rich for the last couple of years. Other than that, though, nothing really to be seen:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1420349990

Pistons look fine. Cylinder walls look fine.

And then ...

And then ...

And then !

Some beer happened, and some discussions happened. Curly got off work, came by, and some more beer and discussions happened.


Scope Creep Alert

#allthethings are now happening. Well, all but pistons:

• Rods
• Rings
• Supermiata Damper (what trigger wheel do I want? 36?)
• BE oil pump (extreme? wtf do I buy here?)
• Squaretop (port matched)
• already happening but maybe not previously mentioned: Skunk2 throttle body, to which the mani will be port matched

Now, since all of the above are happening, it seems to make sense to port match the exhaust. Which puts me in the market for a header. Which, OMFG, I have never wanted to buy because nobody has ever shown dyno results (that I can find, maybe my fu is weak, please enlighten me) that show that anything flows *significantly* better than the stock 01-05 4->1 header. It's a pretty damn good piece for stock. But if I'm going to port match something, do I want to port match the stock header? Not sure I can do that.

And so you ask, as you must, if you are astute, Stock Pistons?? Why? Convince me otherwise. The car will see autocross use and track use with street use. The last 2 years, the mileage on the car has been roughly 50/50 between street and track use. We drive it, but it's not a daily, but we drive it. I want it to be street friendly-ish. I won't see over 200 ft/lbs with the rotrex. I plan to rev for my power. Why do I need to spend money on pistons when stock pistons should fit my power goals. Feel free to enlighten me.

Edit: I plan to rev to 8k.

Stock pistons are fine. Only reason to change would be to go to a different CR.

Header Question:

I have the opportunity to purchase from a fellow mt.net member a ceramic coated racing beat header for 99-00. As far as he knows, the only difference is in EGR fittings.

Can anyone verify differences between 99-00 header and 01-05 header? If I do not care about EGR, which I no longer do, does that matter?

They are fine for what you want to do.
But, I will ask: why spend so much money doing all this, and not just do pistons too? And den.................spin that brotrex for all its worth and make more like 300-350whp or something?

Now now, hear me out: I love me some overbuilt cars, I really do, and I also love me some budget builds, I really do.

But, and maybe I'm way off here, this seems like a weird combination of both and neither. You're obviously making it rain benjamins, and cutting what, $500 out of the budget?

I dunno. Supertech alloy combo is pretty dd friendly. And since you're balling hard with cnc head and allthethings, might as well put the rest of the setup to good use.

just a thought

PS: I heard RB header was the one to get if you don't want to spend an extra $1000 for an extra 1hp

Heh you have exactly nailed it. I am not a broke college student, and believe in spending money where it counts, but I am also a stingy-ass bastard, and don't like to spend money when I don't have to. So if my stock pistons will keep doing the job for the foreseeable future, I say why not. But if they won't and I should replace them, I will.

I have however run up against my "discretionary" budget and will have to potentially seek more funds from the family CFO. If there's a strong case to be made for new pistons she'll probably approve them. But from what I remember reading from various threads, none of aftermarket pistons are ideal in terms of how they're shaped. I am thinking of some Hustler threads, among others. If there's a piston set I should be considering let me know now.

I had planned to wait until Emilio came out with his über-pistons, but everything is happening now. So, now it is.

Ordered:
Manley Rods
timing belt/idlers/water pump/ that stuff
arp head studs
RB header

To Be Ordered:
Supermiata damper
Real Oil Pump
rings
ACL race bearings
roadstersport midpipe (because hollowed-cat stock NB2 midpipe resonates like your moms' vagina)

And then it's all up to Curly. While he does the engine I will do the hood louvers on the spare hood, clean my dirty engine bay, work on the splitter mount design, and do my front rotor friction rings. Maybe even repack some hubs. Probably drink some beer too.

Edit: received, don't think I've mentioned it yet, Tial QRV recirculation valve. My missing boost will not be due to a faulty recirc valve.

I think I'll just flee the country for the labor intensive/cold/dirty part.

Dammit he has fled to Mexico!

In other news, I believe that with my latest acquisition, my build has become Truly Baller:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1420568818

I mean, seriously, these socks actually exist? And they were not created (AFAIK) by an mt.net member as a joke.

2 seconds/lap EASY I say.

Nomex?

No, these are Bromex. Flame resistant in an entirely different way.

^^ That is sigworthy

What 18 said. You're already going in, y u no bewst harder?

Did you pickup the coated RB header or a new shiny one?

*bromex lmao

RB header on the way that will be coated.

My compressor is the same as the one on Deviant, which is a 300hp motor. I am shooting for 250ish. Maybe more, we'll see. Plenty of boost to be had. Deviant also has a CNC head, not VVT, but +2 ex valves instead of +1 and it has cams.

Engine is out. First time I've pulled an engine. It would be a lot easier if I didn't have to move the car out to the driveway to get the necessary room. Something to look forward to for Garage Retirement.0

Tomorrow I'll take comparison pictures of the heads then get it ready to ship to emilio.

So, a noobish question, in terms of cleaning the old head enough for shipping, any reason I can't wipe it down and then spray it up with brake cleaner?

I don't think I'd clean it too much. The concern is the steel parts, you don't want rust so oil is your friend. OTOH, Emilio is probably replacing all that stuff for you anyway, so . . . .

Is it just going back as a core? Or being rebuilt for you?

This is the core. Emilio has already replaced everything for me.

To clarify, the goal of this build is to do what needs to be done to the motor internals to get the motor more track-ready than it has been stock, and only that. Rings, bearings, check everything, put it back together. Target rwtq is well within stock piston limits.

There is also a time limit to this. I want it to be ready to go in March. Not boring saves time. I can swing the current build with my allocated funds. New pistons puts me into begging territory with Ms Mobius and I don't want to go there.

The next time this motor comes out it will get completely refreshed, bored over, new pistons, etc. I have dumped the money into the external pieces that will carry over with this engine into its next rebuild - the intake manifold, the throttle body, and the header. Those are all getting port matched to the head.

I want more power and more revs. I will also be running more grip. Bob has shown us the whimper limits for the six speed for the power+grip combo - 300wtq and 275 Hoosiers shatters the transmission. 200wtq and 225 Hoosiers should be fine, and that's where I plan to be.

Pictures of a head job
 

I was able to get decent comparison shots of the combustion chamber, but for the intake and exhaust ports, it just wasn't happening on my old head. I spent some time with a brass brush and brake cleaner for you guys trying to make it less black in there, but no dice. The human eye could make out the differences pretty well but it was too dark in there to get any decent photos with the camera.

Old head CC:
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original



New head CC:
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...2.jpg~original



New head exhaust shot 1:
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original



New head exhaust shot 2:
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original



New head intake shot :
http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/...c.jpg~original

:drool: