Now THAT would be awesome. Could be inspiration for a Mobius smiley.

We did not, we were still in picture mode sadly.

Also I have had trouble getting LC-1 digital output if I don't have the null plug in the end that I wasn't using.

I'm pretty sure it's reversed. I will make sure the terminator goes back in.

Digital AFR success. On to getting the car on the ground and rolling.

Swap & bleed new slave
install shifter
front swaybar
etc

Yay!

Oh man, this is getting exciting! Congrats!

MS3 ziptied all the hell up in there ghetto-style while waiting on brackets?Trans fluid Shifter brotrex belt tightening #1 all 4 wheels on and not torqued? hood Swaybar & RB support braces installedSwaybar & RB support braces removed to re-grease, then reinstalled?Swaybar installed hanging down, and unable to clear tie rods to get to where it is supposed to?Motherf*#**ing swaybar & RB support braces undone so the motherf#*#ing swaybar will clear the tie rods, and all that motherf#**ing pain in the ass shit installed a third timeBut I'm not bitter.

ToDo:I am always surprised how much time all the piddly stuff takes. First drive is to Curly's house, about 20 miles. Oil change shall occur there. Tunerstudio goodness will commence.

Alignment/corner weight scheduled for Thursday. I have the Enthuza NBXR muffler on the car, because ~15lbs lighter, and because fuck the neighbors.

The sway bar mounts and blocks are seriously way to hard to reach, especially if you have intercooler piping in the way. When I changed my springs last weekend the thing that took the longest was undoing the damn sway bars.

Good luck on getting it going, and don't forget to torque the wheels, I seem to forget that one every time.

My hotside is the FM silicone piece, so I can flex it out of the way, but it's still a pain.

I love my HD sway mounts. Sold the RB brace and blocks with an evil smile on my face.

50 miles on the car now.

Drove to Curly's, varying RPM and on/off the throttle. It was super rich. I was out of time and didn't set up an AFR target table for ve analyze to play with. I'm not familiar with any of that, and the day was passing. During install and messing with stuff we may have wiped out Rev's base map, I'm not sure.

Got there, we did a quick drive, did some quick tuning, things immediately got better. We hadn't yet checked timing with a timing light, so we decided to do so.
So that's, fine, whatever, that's totally understandable. That's where I keep my seldomly-used-but-hard-to-replace tools, in the trunk of my wife's car. I completely understand.

We went to AutoZone to borrow a timing light, VEAL'ing on the way.

"No, we don't rent or loan those. We sell them, though!"

Nobody had a timing light for us. So fuck it, time to change the oil. Oil was changed.

New VEAL session on awesome road near Curly's house, things are pretty good now. Halfway through the drive there was the following sequence of noises:
thunka thunka THUNK thunk
We turn around and find the item. It is the recirc valve I fashioned from PVC pipe. It is a street elbow, with two sections of 1" pvc pipe cemented into it, and then my silicone intake hoses are clamped onto the 1" pvc pipe stubs. I didn't put epoxy/jbweld flanges on them because noboostpressure, I figured I could tighten things down and everything would be fine. Well, it wasn't, the shit fell out on the road. But, because MAP now, things still run fine, but the engine can now access unfiltered air through the open hole. We drive back, Josh whips up a plug, I bolt it in. No more unfiltered air!

Alignment and corner weight tomorrow, then maybe another VEAL session. I am going to check the midpipe and muffler connections; the exhaust note seemed excessive by the time I got home and I am wondering if a gasket somehow slipped out or if a nut/bolt has come loose.

Once that's sorted out I'll take some video on some good roads.


Grade Report so far:

Engine: no oil leaks, runs gud. A+ Josh !
Engine: no coolant leaks. A+ Josh & me!
Redneck Engineering Solutions Me: B Worked good until it failed!
Redneck Engineering Solutions Curly: A Still in place and functioning!
V8 Roadsters LCA: A+ There is so much camber now lol. You turn the wheel and the car says "please, turn it more, I got this"

Please check your timing first! If the timing is off, all your VEALing will be useless and in the worst case you will harm your engine...

PVC? Really?

As an engineering solution, I'd give that an "F." But since you qualified it as a "Redneck" engineering solution "B" might be harsh. After all, it gave an opportunity to consume beer. So more like an "A-." Had said beer been consumed, it would have merited an "A+."

Eh, it should have worked temporarily. He's got the Tail recirc valve in a box at home, I say at this point we just bolt that in...

Rick I did wrap it in DEI thermal wrap, it should have survived fine for a week. But that problem is solved.

Moving on, the header to midpipe bolts loosened up otw home last night and one bolt backed out all the way. So I was running ALLTHERICE otw to alignment this morning.

Solvable problem. I didn't have any lock washers I could use, I'll get some.

Just have AR bolt it up while it's on the rack, if it still is. Problem solved!

we would, if we had the stupidly long hardware necessary to do so, only 1 bolt remained, the other bolt and both nuts were long gone.

I was just looking for an opportunity to talk about beer. ;)

I use all-metal locknuts and flat washers on my header-midpipe. Works great. All-metal locknuts are pretty cheap and readily available. Here's an example from Lowe's (shows a bag of 50, but you can buy small quantities too):

Shop The Hillman Group 50-Count 9/16-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) All Metal Lock Nuts at Lowes.com

Alignment numbers are in.

F: R:Total weight: 2617. With driver, with lightweight enthuza muffler, without hardtop/wing. Mostly full tank

Might I say that, with the midpipe disconnected from the header, my car makes hella loud noise. This was due to bolt loosening and disappearing on the drive home from Curlys' yesterday. It was held on only by the one bolt when I got to AR, only due to shear stress, nut was gone, other bolt and nut were gone. If/when that second bolt had given up bad things would have happened, as then the front of the midpipe would have been completely unsupported and probably would have hit the pavement making Mad Max-worthy levels of sparks and noise. When I got home this afternoon, I found (not unsurprisingly) this in my driveway:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425007852


That would be what's left of the gasket I re-used between the header and midpipe.

Unlike the stock NB midpipe, the Racing Beat midpipe has no studs. So you have to use bolts. I tightened the header<->midpipe bolts to what I thought was enough; obviously it was not. I didn't have any washers or lock washers handy and the nuts were regular nuts. I have replacement hardware now to replace the scrounged hardware AR put on for me, lots of the tightening torque will be applied.

Curly and I timed the car, it was off (advanced) 4 degrees. That has been corrected and base timing is now 14 degrees measured and verified. Some VEAL happened on the way home.

With the exhaust properly connected and timing/fueling starting to come in, the car sounds good. It's somewhat obnoxiously loud with the Enthuza muffler on, but it sounds good. I may end up giving the RoadsterSport3 a try for something in between. The can on the Enthuza is, umm, small - there's not a lot of muffling going on there, as you can see:

http://shop.enthuzacar.com/images/12...179144703.jpeg



I also noticed that with the current solution, the car is still making some boost . About 2psi at 3500. I didn't test beyond that point. Merely having a 1" outlet to atmosphere on the output side of the compressor is not enough; it needs to be connected to the inlet side. So, Ghetto PVC Recirc Valve MkII, complete with Faeflora-approved JBWeld power, will be going on tomorrow. Heat shield wrap will keep it safe.

Richard, for the love of god sell your enthuza, it's useless. Meant for turbo cars and 16 year old ricers. It's just obnoxious. Surprised my HOA hasn't contacted me. Surprised you don't have Portland style riots in front of your house yet.

Buy something. Anything. I don't care if it's 50lbs. Hell, just keep your stock exhaust. I don't care. ANYTHING IS BETTER THAN YOUR ENTHUZA.

NB Speeder - Enthuza Car, Inc

Power Pulse Miata Muffler for 99-05 Miata - Racing Beat

Flyin' Miata : Exhaust : Normally aspirated : 1999-05 Flyin`Miata naturally aspirated single exhaust

ARTech Fabrication - Custom Fabricating

Just remember when you're shopping, to look for the NATURALLY ASPIRATED designation. Because when it relates to exhaust, you have a naturally aspirated car.

Do it for the children.

Is it 3 inches....if so I'll buy.

It's 2.5", mates to stock exhaust piping.

When there was a functioning cat on the car, it wasn't nearly as bad. And believe it or not, I DO have the NA version of this muffler.

My muffler: Enthuza NB XR Lightweight

Trubo version: Enthuza NB XR Lightweight Turbo

From the pictures, the trubo version has a bigger can. IDK why.

I had the trubo enthuza on my 01 for a bit and couldn't handle it, and that one has a much much bigger and quieter can. I can't even imagine running that pencil penis version. Must literally wake the dead

If I were you, I'd get the NB speeder for normal operation and keep the XR for when you want to go to the track and out-spec the spec guys! They should interchange.

And, order of loudness (from quiet to loud):

Turbocharged
Normally Aspirated
Supercharged

Supercharged + XR . . . man, that must be a spectacle!

it sounds worse than Laz did 1.6 N/A with the spoon replica muffler

Bah. You people :)

Stock muffler is going back on today. The XR isn't for daily driving anyway. Its only purpose in life is to allow me to hear the engine easily at high speed on track when the wind noise in the cabin is excessive.

You are about +200 from my weight with hardtop, just NB extra weight or what? Granted I've removed some stuff and have race seats but seems a little more porky than it should be.

I have the heaviest NB. I think it's listed at 2550.


Last weight I have was with hardtop, with ac, with trunk stuff, with stock seat, without me : 2604.

This weight is 2617.
-me = 2432
+ht = 2477
+AC= 2502

So I have stripped some weight, but it's still heavy.

slow fat car will still be slow :D

Just needs more torques.

O wait... :giggle:

if it's an 01 se it should be listed at 2350

2350 is probably a dry weight. No oil, coolant, battery, brake fluid, gas, or driver. All that really adds up.

Richard, I believe a lot of weights are posted with 1/4 tank or less, do some math and give us a real weight with wing, hardtop, no driver. I bet it's better than you'd think.

Curly has been complaining about how loud my car is with the Enthuza XR Lightweight. Which is, in fact, the non-turbo NA version of that muffler.

His dog, Jack, who loves me because I loves him, gets excited as I enter Curly's neighborhood. Without the Enthuza, Jack wouldn't know I'm on my way!

I mean, seriously, what could be the problem here :giggle:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425074498


Up to 156 miles now, did some VEAL on Skyline. Startup enrichments are much better now after yesterday's tweaking. Car is running well.

County. Jack gets excited when you enter my county.

Some shots of progress. MAF is still there because everything fits good. It's not a significant restriction. When I run out of more important things to do I'll get around to replacing it with something else.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425101898


The swaybar to oil cooler clearance is tight, about .5 inch, but manageable.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425102467



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425102467

The reroute hose has enough give in it to still allow for top-down oil changes. Huzzah. It can be flexed up out of the way.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...357-small-.jpg

Once I get through the first 3 oil changes I'll hook up the oil cooler, and see if the IM brace will fit with 2x sandwich plates and an oversize filter. It's a bit of a pain to take on and off but I'd like see that significant IM mass which is out there getting vibrated on a reasonably long moment arm supported.

Looks tidy!

^This! I thought I was looking at Vlad's engine bay for a moment there. Nice work.

My oil cooler clearance is quite tight as well. Hopefully your radiator mounts are tight! ;)

I'm putting my sandwich plate assembly and intake manifold back on this weekend. I'll let you know how my clearances are.

always a pleasure to see clean bay

I think the maf is a restriction, though only a couple hp worth at your power level

Thanks guys. Maf replacement is on the list, just way under getting the car broken in and tuned.

What size is it? I might have a piece of pipe laying around.

I believe the stock nb2 maf is just a tad over 2.5"
somewhere between 2.6-2.75

It's an odd size. I will replace more than just the maf to clean up that whole elbow.

My main concern is the dyno. We shouldn't dyno on a restriction. Because 300 club.

Oh yeah, Richard we are supposed to coordinate dyno times so curly doesn't have to make extra trips.

We're working on that. ER needs to be booked a month or two in advance, and in a month or two from now we've missed zero to one month of track season.

I'll get it figured out.

Today I installed my Singular MS3 bracket. I really enjoyed this, and hope to do it again soon.

The CAN box for the ms3 presented somewhat of a problem. There's just nowhere to put it on the bracket. Gorilla tape was the only solution I could come up with that didn't involve disassembling things, drilling holes, and using tiny fasteners that I would have to go buy.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1425186983





Tomorrow 7am greddygalant hit the Columbia Gorge for some break-in driving. For some reason I'm feeling the addition of Martin and Laz to this Sunday morning cruise has increased my LEO encounter probability 100 fold ...

Aidan, start us off a GoFundMe for bail, please :party:

I have no extra money for all that. I just paid my 93$ 65 in a 60 ticket I got in Olympia. Freaking bs.

My WB controller is fitted to the MS3 with velcro tape, that works a charm an looks good. Way better than the gorilla tape.... Maybe this would be a solution for you.

Which velcro tape did you use? The "Industrial Strength" velcro that I've used in the trunk has had adhesion problems, either with the whole piece coming off the surface it is mounted to, or the tape separating from the backing.

Gorilla tape, on the other hand, sealed the gap at the top of my radiator to the panel for a year, and didn't want to let go when I removed the radiator. That's a 200+F environment that sees moisture. So I'm confident the can box isn't going to fall down in front of my brake pedal despite the ghettoness of the solution.

Part of this mornings' drive. Sound isn't the greatest, sorry. Something in my trunk resonates which I'm going to go try and figure out.

I notice now with the oem coolant sandwich disconnected that oil takes over 3 minutes to get to 160+ compared to maybe 1:45 previously.

39 degrees outside, car start and cold start running were both fine.

Mobius, was the fix for digital WB-CAN output as simple as hook up the serial cord to the OUT terminal (I'm assuming you had it on IN)? MS3 w/CAN is replacing my MS1 and I feel like there should be more to it lol.

Build is looking good!

such a baller build.

I want to see what kind of gains just the CNC head gave you. And thanks for sharing some detail pics of the port job. I'm going to try to mimic that when I port my head.

Yes.


The rattle in the trunk was loose bolts for the shield for the fuel line. Removed! No more rattling.

So I'm up to like 350 miles now. That's good.

I totally recommend removing everything from the trunk. Maybe leave the spare if you want to.

Day before yesterday I went into the trunk to determine the source of the rattle you can hear in the video. I've had the trim out for a long time. I tidied up some wiring that I thought might have been vibrating. Then I discovered the bolts for the fuel line panel were loose. Rattling noise found! I went ahead and took that panel out completely. Then I put my laptop bag and tool bag into the trunk, and went driving.

Then ... yesterday I go to get my laptop bag. Trunk won't open. Interior release is loose, key turns, keyless release sounds like it's working ... but the latch is not releasing. I mess with it for a while, then do some research, and decide to go in through the front and unbolt the two 10mm head bolts that hold the latch in place.

So today that's what I did. Took the seats out, took the parcel shelf carpet out, took the parcel shelf out. Realize I don't have the extensions I need. Drove the car over to a local mechanic's shop, and Kurt was able to get the bolts undone. Trunk opens, yay. One bolt from the passengers' side, and the other bolt from the drivers' side.

Inspecting the latch, we discover it's missing a screw that holds the release mechanism in place so that it can apply enough force to actuate release. Dunno where that screw is. It's not something I removed by mistake because in order to get to it you have to take the latch mechanism off - the head of the screw is facing the rear of the car, it's on the inside.

So a giant PITA all around but it's getting resolved. I missed another CAVU driving opportunity, though.

Had I not removed that panel I would have been completely boned. We could not have gotten to the bolt. I'll post a picture of the screw location tomorrow.

+1 on break in drive video. :D

What was in your warm & delicious cup? Hot coco? :party:

This exact thing happened to me a few weeks ago. it took ALL of my extensions (both 3/8 and 1/2) to reach those 2 10mm bolts. maybe I'm missing that screw too.

Tervis tumblers ftmfWIN. They keeps the coffee hot, and they keeps the beer cold. My all-time favorite cups.

That cup contained Starbucks Pikes Place decaf. Made stronk, like the smell of Hustler's cycling pants. With half and half, and a shot of the heavy whipping cream, for the fully rounded taste experience.

Decaf so that when I actually drink Caf, I get ALLOFIT. KaPOW!

I can't imagine it's top down weather in Portland? Just flipped through the last dozen or so pages and I'm fighting the urge to go to the nearest doughnut place. All delicious fried food aside, solid car sir.