When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Edit: No personal experience. Just heard good things.
I'm going to give this guy a chance. They can install a billet compressor wheel, balance it and do general service for $300. The anti-surge housing is $200 more so you know. But after learning more, I don't need it.
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Are you running ebc?.
I'm running a mbc.
Originally Posted by 18psi
What you're describing (and what your video showed) is pretty normal for a tial.
So don't even worry about it
Yeah I've heard several tial folks complain about the same thing. For now I will run it but when I get a chance I will go with something different. That split second chirp is so loud I can't enjoy the car with the top down. I was racing another turbo miata a few weeks ago and they thought I was chirping the tires between shifts.
So I worked on my manifold this weekend. Here is the deal. The mani was tapped for M10 but since the tips of the threads are all missing I need to tap this to M12. I can't seem to find Inconel studs that are M12, I can find M14 which is too big. I can have them custom made for a ridiculous price. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places? I would love some help with this.
ooh that sucks. I don't think anyone makes inco m12 off the shelf. I sorta remember corky making a batch of m12 regular steel studs before, so there might be that, but not inco
ooh that sucks. I don't think anyone makes inco m12 off the shelf. I sorta remember corky making a batch of m12 regular steel studs before, so there might be that, but not inco
Oh yeahhhh I think I can get M12 inconel bolts, I know studs would be better but would inconel bolts be better than steel studs? Looks like most standard steels lose their strength under high temps thus the stretching issue that I had.
So I snipped a set of autokonexion flares off ebay for $100, I was tickled pink. Then out of nowhere the autokonexion flares I ordered in august came in? Paypal reimbursed me the money earlier this month since the order had not been filled. The shipping label was printed in September. Sooo I guess I'm going to try and pay for em. I'm starting to hoard miata parts
I don't have much to update, the weather has really stripped me of my motivation and the holidays emptied my accounts. I'm going to do something some may think is crazy, I'm going to touch up the existing m10 threads on the manifold and add either set screws on the sides with a flat spot on the studs to help lock them or put a wood-ruff key-way into the stud and manifold. We haven't quite decided yet. We being my dad who has 30 year's experience as a machinist. If I tap it up to m12 I can't get cheap inconel studs and I run a risk of the bolts being too big since the turbo's bolt space is limited. My other hurdles were Begi doesn't make this exact manifold anymore so the exhaust would not mat to the turbo if I got it, nor will some of the other manifold's I've looked at and the used market for it is dry. Anywho this is my cheapest fix. I'm trying hard to make this a quality repair since the whole theme for the thread is an attempt at getting good. I've decked the turbo and manifold now to find time to get to the machine shop to finish it. I want to have the turbo rebuilt since it is out but I'm not sure if I can muster the funds, we'll see. The way I'm doing this, I will not want to pull the turbo off unless it is absolutely necessary.
I finally have everything back. The Trackspeed studs were too short. So we used 17-4 Stainless since it can retain its tinsel strength up to 572 degrees Fahrenheit. Still not as good as inconel but I couldn't source inconel round stock at a decent price. New studs were made then set in place with resbond then to go a step further a hole was drilled through each stud and a set screw installed. We did this because half of each stud was secured with threads.
Its the best of an annoying situation. I'm sandblasting it and coating it tonight. I hope to have it back together and running this week.
Also I had to retap all the exhaust bolt holes, another nuisance.
What a mess this has been. I got the manifold on and stared the middle nut which is super hard to get to. I got the turbo on and started bolting everything in and when I went to tighten the middle nut I realized I didn't put it on far enough and the manifold ran into it and pushed the nut down, stripping the threads. I had to pull it all off and order new studs. When I got the studs in I had another issue, the Miataroadster studs are a bit longer than what I had. So I had to keep some of the old studs due to clearance issues, thankfully all the ones I kept were in good shape. I ran a tap through all the holes to make sure they were clean and studded up. I guess that is a lesson learned. There is a real order of operation to putting this back together because everything is so tight. I can't complain though, I've had to work on my friends NC and those have NO room at all to do anything.
So far the car has been solid the whole two days I got to drive it. Its been too cold or too wet to drive around on R1Rs which is all I have for the car. I moved my 02 sensor to the bottom of the down pipe. I did that to hopefully increase the longevity of the sensor. The list of 02 sensors that will work with the Hydra is short and pricey. I re calibrated it since it was moved. It was off by 0.2-0.5 which to me doesn't seem like a lot. The last time I lost a sensor my fuel economy went to crap really fast. I've been getting about 24mpg which I guess is close to point at 300ish. I will also have one thing less in the way for making a good heat shield when I get around to that. Now that the turbo is properly seated, the car seems a little spunkier. Maybe its because I've not driven it in a month or so?
Since everything is buttoned up well, the car is very quiet on the highway. I'm really starting to enjoy the fruits of my labor. The sound deadening was worth every penny.
I've also gone down a rabbit hole. I wanted to fix my delayed BOV issue since it was bothering me. That 1 second of chirp is very loud and will give you a headache if you are banging down a back road with the top down. So I thought I would take the easy way out and order a FM setup.
Wrong Wrong Wrong
The FM setup does not clear my factory fans, maybe because my radiator is fat? For testing I am running it with a single fan to see it their setup is any better than what I had. Also the radiator hose was in contact with the pipe.
Then to top that off at half throttle I blew out the sensor bung that is in the line. I called FM to see why on earth it did that. They said the line was good for 30psi and to put it back on. They want me to try it again before they will take it back. I'm really apprehensive about using it at all after blowing that out. I didn't even get to see it the BOV worked. Note: The BOV is in the wrong orientation in the pics.
While it was out, I inspected my old setup and found a leak....... This may explain why my boost was still falling off a bit. I don't know how this got damaged, it's not rubbing against anything. I'm going to fix this in case I want to go back to it. I like a metal pipe over FM's wacky noodle.
After all that frustration and dealing with car junk. I did get another thing accomplished, I finished my gaming rig. That should distract me from this headache I'm dealing with.
Whelp this is fixed. I won't be able to test it for a few days. Its going to rain for the next several days. FM is sending me a new throttle inlet pipe. So whatever I don't need I may sell.
I've seen some other people run with one fan? How well does that work?
One fan works very well, unless you're using AC on a hot day in stop/go traffic.
Did your hood damage the pipe? Can't tell where that damage is.
Also, FM's stuff needs to be trimmed to fit properly. Shorten the TB end to get it away from your upper hose, and it may also solve your fan issue. It'll be very tight.
You also have a HUGE radiator, it looks nearly twice the size of stock. Please don't blame FM for this, you have a very different setup than stock, they can't make a product that fits everything.
One fan works very well, unless you're using AC on a hot day in stop/go traffic.
Did your hood damage the pipe? Can't tell where that damage is.
Also, FM's stuff needs to be trimmed to fit properly. Shorten the TB end to get it away from your upper hose, and it may also solve your fan issue. It'll be very tight.
You also have a HUGE radiator, it looks nearly twice the size of stock. Please don't blame FM for this, you have a very different setup than stock, they can't make a product that fits everything.
The damage on the pipe is close to the wheel. Maybe while running my last set of lame offset wheels I rubbed a whole it in. It's free and clear now. Excellent advice on the FM inlet trimming, I'll give that a try. I do know that my radiator is a little larger than FM planned for so I'm not blaming them for it, just complaining I'd like to have both fans to cut down on those hot summer days in traffic. It often hits 100 here. I think the whole thing is an excuse to get a quality radiator and fan set up.
Originally Posted by 18psi
lol and the whole time we were tuning I kept mentioning it seems like you have a leak
You did say that. But I was like a giddy school boy about the power we were adding so I wasn't listening. Forgive my noobness Sometimes I think I have the metal age of a 6 year old.
12-04-2017, 10:33 AM
0
So we used 17-4 Stainless since it can retain its tinsel strength up to 572 degrees Fahrenheit. Still not as good as inconel but I couldn't source inconel round stock at a decent price. New studs were made then set in place with resbond then to go a step further a hole was drilled through each stud and a set screw installed. We did this because half of each stud was secured with threads.
I'd like to have both fans to cut down on those hot summer days in traffic. It often hits 100 here. I think the whole thing is an excuse to get a quality radiator and fan set up.
Sometimes I think I have the metal age of a 6 year old.
