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Old 02-07-2009, 12:33 PM   #121
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Just in case you didn't know, you are supposed to bolt everything down LOOSELY before tightening anything. That helps to get everything to align as to be able to get everything to fit, and then if say, the DP needs to move an 1/8" this way if possible for clearance, odds are something has a bit of slack or wiggle room and you'll get it.
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Old 02-07-2009, 03:34 PM   #122
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In the instructions, it says to connect the lighting stuff to a switched wire that goes to the lights... I want them to change with the rheostat for the inside lighting... which wire should I tap on that rheostat to get that effect? Thanks.
This can be done. In vacation in HI right now so I have no reference, but IIRC there are three wires. One of the wires increases in voltage inversely proportionally to light intensity. IE: full bright=0v, lights off=+12v. Use a multimeter to find this wire and use this wire as your ground. Therefore at full bright: 0v relative to +12v = +12v and lights off: +12v relative to +12v = 0v. Works nicely for me.

FWIW, my BEGI kit took a long time to get, but overall I was pretty pleased. Instructions need a serious overhaul tho...
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Old 02-07-2009, 04:42 PM   #123
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How much space is there between those points?
I would say 2-4 mm, not more than that. I tightened everything and I have not taken a new picture but I will. Today I assembled and installed the cool air box and the distribution block. Again, space issues there. I will try to post pictures later, but I am busy tonight, so it could be tomorrow evening.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:05 AM   #124
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Pictures from today:

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Old 02-08-2009, 01:09 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Just in case you didn't know, you are supposed to bolt everything down LOOSELY before tightening anything. That helps to get everything to align as to be able to get everything to fit, and then if say, the DP needs to move an 1/8" this way if possible for clearance, odds are something has a bit of slack or wiggle room and you'll get it.
I did that, and I followed the secquence on tightening things too... I still don't have the bolt connecting the two parts of the DP in there, that might move things too.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:10 AM   #126
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This can be done. In vacation in HI right now so I have no reference, but IIRC there are three wires. One of the wires increases in voltage inversely proportionally to light intensity. IE: full bright=0v, lights off=+12v. Use a multimeter to find this wire and use this wire as your ground. Therefore at full bright: 0v relative to +12v = +12v and lights off: +12v relative to +12v = 0v. Works nicely for me.

FWIW, my BEGI kit took a long time to get, but overall I was pretty pleased. Instructions need a serious overhaul tho...
Thanks - that's what I was looking for... a way to figure out which wire and what to connect to it.
Yes, you are right about the instructions... a lot of updates are needed.
Enjoy your vacation and thanks again.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:16 AM   #127
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Measure the O.D. of those braided hoses and then get some rubber hose or fuel line that's that I.D. So if that hose measures .350" O.D., pick up a foot of 3/8 I.D. fuel line. Then just slit down its' length and slip it over the braided to protect it from rubbing into other things and causing damage. If you wish, you can just cut a couple 1-2" pieces of hose and put them over the braided stuff wherever anything may come in contact with it.

As for bryanlow's comment on the rheostat thing, he has a NA. NB's are different.

As for the hose that's too short, you'll need a longer one. I just buy 1/4" or 5/16" (can't remember off the top of my head) fuel line and use it for all my little coolant hoses. It's flexible, high temp, high pressure, etc. Works well. The way yours are now must be fixed.

Also, I wouldn't suggest zip tying things to sensors. See your second to last pic, above and to the right of the zip ties there's a bolt on the timing belt cover? Pick up some cable clamps and use that bolt to secure it. See how I did my oil feed for an example. These clips are available at Lowes for cheap, in hardware under specialty stuff.

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Old 02-08-2009, 06:47 AM   #128
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For the kinked line, get a clothes hangar and bend it to match the hose you need. Go Kragen, Autozone or whatever and ask them to find a molded hose to match. They will usually just let you go and look through their stock yourself. You'd be amazed at the stuff you can find. Even if you can't find a perfect match you can always get two molded 90 elbows and join them with a coupler.

For the braided lines, I sheathed most of them in clear heat shrink tubing. You can get usually get long lengths of tubing at an electrical supply house, or at better electronics stores. I got mine at Fry's. You can just see it in this pic.

The stuff protects the lines and anything the lines may come in contact with. It also looks great and handles heat very well.

About the rheostat, patsmx5 is right. I have an NA and don't know jack about the NB electrics so YMMV. Take some readings with a multimeter and post the results. If it uses PWM, take readings with your voltmeter set to AC voltage.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:45 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
Pictures from today:
Get longer hoses.
Quote:
you'll hate yourself if you use duct tape. that **** gets so gooey and nasty and unremovable. get a piece of rubber water or fuel hose and slit it and zip tie the hose around the SS line where it rubs.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:02 PM   #130
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Thanks for the ideas. I will take the duct tape off... I may try the fuel line idea since I already tightened that. Thanks.
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:09 PM   #131
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Good to see you finishing up this project, after all the hype and drama. I'm also going with BEGi on my turbo build in spite of your bad experience with them. I'll be looking at your build thread being a noob here.
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:03 AM   #132
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Today, I was able to get the coolant / oil lines done. I also moved the DP a little more and clearance is better. I was going to start on the intercooler tubes, but I am missing clamps for that. Stephanie said she will send them out tomorrow. I had to spend a little time adjusting the compressor inlet tubing since the one I had received was made to go with the air filter, no MAF. I had to cut off 3 inches with the Dremel. I also messed up the harness for the MAF and had to solder one of the wires - pulled too hard trying to get the tube in before figuring out it doesn't fit
I also took the advice on the fuel line to wrap the braided oil line... worked great, thanks
I think I may have a few hours tomorrow afternoon to get some things done. After that, I am going overseas until later this month... I will try to post tomorrow's progress pictures before I leave.
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:33 AM   #133
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Looking good. I would smear some JB-Weld on that drain. I did it and mine doesn't leak. It shouldn't leak, but they tend to start leaking after a while. I JB'd mine as most do and it's fine.
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:18 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
It is very close to the belt. I would secure it with zip ties, discretely, to make sure it does not get sliced.
Stephanie
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:40 PM   #135
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It is very close to the belt. I would secure it with zip ties, discretely, to make sure it does not get sliced.
Stephanie
I may just trim off some on the thermostat side to move it away from the belt.
By the way, thanks again for the help this weekend...
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:43 PM   #136
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Looking good. I would smear some JB-Weld on that drain. I did it and mine doesn't leak. It shouldn't leak, but they tend to start leaking after a while. I JB'd mine as most do and it's fine.
I would have to clean up the thread lock stuff - I may wait until it leaks... If I get held up by something else, I will do it before. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:54 PM   #137
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I would re-route the engine side coolant line. It looks too long for where it is. IF THERE IS ROOM, run it under the outside coolant line and underneath the turbo, back towards the engine. There should be a 90 degree adapter to help it fit easier.
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:55 PM   #138
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forgot to attach the photo...
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My Begi S5 Turbo Kit-2009-02-08-7-21-30pmcopy.jpg  
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:49 PM   #139
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I would re-route the engine side coolant line. It looks too long for where it is. IF THERE IS ROOM, run it under the outside coolant line and underneath the turbo, back towards the engine. There should be a 90 degree adapter to help it fit easier.
Stephanie
I don't think there will be room for that. I can try it but I think it didn't work for me. I guess I can also cut more sheet metal and run it to the outside.
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:00 PM   #140
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The routing of the line is fine, i just though it would look nicer the other way. But, I would not cut the frame more than necessary. When you put the comp. inlet tube on, play with it some and see if it will fit another way.
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