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Old 03-05-2009, 02:55 AM   #161
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Once I did the fix on the connector, the car ran better, but I think my A/F meter is getting some interference... I will deal with that later I guess. The car would run for a minute or two, then die. There was wet soot coming out of the exhaust. I could not talk to Stephanie about it tonight, so, may be tomorrow. Anyway, here is how everything looks right now:











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Old 03-05-2009, 02:58 AM   #162
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Other upgrades... As I had 5 months with the car on jack stands:









It's off the jack stands now, waiting to go for a ride, after I tune it with Stephanie's help
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:31 AM   #163
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I want wilwoods, bad. Your cold air box makes me jealous too, I need to build something similar.
Clean car man.
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:20 AM   #164
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Thanks man. I haven't had a chance to try the brakes or the new reinforcement rail or the new clutch... the car has not been functional through out the whole turbo build and the installation of these parts. I don't even remember how the car drove before the upgrades
And I haven't even finished this project, now I'm looking at another car... addictive 'problem'.
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:50 AM   #165
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Is that a to-do list on the window?

C

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Old 03-05-2009, 12:12 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
The car would run for a minute or two, then die. There was wet soot coming out of the exhaust.
If it is running REALLY rich it can spit out black stuff. It will stain the garage floor too.

If the LC-1 is getting interference, go back and check your ground wires. We will work on tuning stuff tonight!
Stephanie
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Old 03-05-2009, 12:53 PM   #167
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Is that a to-do list on the window?

C

No, it's a for sale sign from the time I was frustrated with the build... just kidding
It is a torque conversion table since the torque wrenches I had were different than the shop manual units.
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:14 PM   #168
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I finally got the car off the jackstands and took it out a couple of times. I had to adjust the clutch travel because I could not even shift in the beginning with the clutch pedal on the floor! Anyway, I adjusted as much as I could and now it is manageable.
So, new problems came up:
First, I remember my transmission dropping when I changed the clutch/flywheel and I did not notice, but the metal part with the seal is bent. Now it leaks. I looked it up in one of the miata books I have and it's called the tailshaft oil seal. I want to change it but I am not sure if the metal part is part of the seal. If it is, that would solve my problem. If it is not, I have much bigger problems... Anyone have a picture of rear transmission seal / tailshaft oil seal? If not, what does it look like? Is it the metal ring/flange with rubber seal or just the rubber seal?
Second, I had an oil leak at the oil pan where I tapped it. I took out the AN fitting and all the threads are cross-threaded. It's loose in the hole. I had followed previous advice to use JB weld on the outside, but it still leaked. I found a Brass fitting that looks the same, but Stephanie did not suggest using that long term due to the different properties of brass/aluminium. So, I'm going to try to find another AN aluminium fitting to replace it but I am worried that it will also be loose since the hole may have become too large. Any suggestions on this issue?
I had fun driving the car for a few miles, but I want to fix these problems first. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:49 AM   #169
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Default Rear Transmission Seal Replaced

So, I started with the repairs on the leaks.
First I tackled the rear transmission seal because it seemed more involved to me.
I removed the drive shaft without removing the PPF or the exhaust. I actually slipped it out between the exhaust, PPF and differential. Of course I had to remove the middle part of the Flyin' Miata reinforcement rail - royal pain in the *** to take out and put in
Then, I used a small screw driver and gently tapped it around as much of the accessible part of the seal. I had bought a seal puller, but it was useless in this area.
Here is what the seal looked like:



Here is what it is supposed to look like:





I used a seal driver kit to get the new one back in place after putting grease inside and outside to get it in:







It was a little tricky to get it in and it took me a few tries. Using the driver with the handle made it harder, so I took the handle off and lightly hammered the driver (plastic piece) and at the end used the handle to finish tapping it in.

Here is the final outcome (I apologize for the poor focus):





I hope it does not leak because I really don't want to do this again
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:54 AM   #170
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Default Oil Tap Leak Repaired (hopefully for the last time)

I bought a new oil pan fitting and used JB Weld on the fitting threads and around it. The fitting did not seem very tight when I put it on but I hope the JB Weld will do the job. Otherwise, I have to look for a larger fitting to engage the walls of the pan or have someone weld it on for me.... Anyone know how much it would cost if they had to take the pan off and do it ( I don't want to take it off myself)?
Sorry I did not take any pictures of this, but it looks like a fitting with a bunch of JB Weld around it ... nothing impressive.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:04 AM   #171
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There is no taking the pan off without pulling the motor or dropping the front sub-frame. It is no small undertaking.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:16 AM   #172
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There is no taking the pan off without pulling the motor or dropping the front sub-frame. It is no small undertaking.
So, if this JB Weld deal doesn't work, would a larger fitting be the next possible step?
I don't know how to weld... is it possible to weld the fitting to the pan while it's on the car?
Thanks.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:25 AM   #173
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I'd try a larger fitting if the JB weld doesn't work. I welded a bung to mine when the motor was out of the car, but it would not be easy nor would you know the inside was very clean.
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:39 AM   #174
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Default Turbo install Finished

I finally got to really drive my car...
I have to get used to the acceleration since I lose traction in first, second and sometimes in third gear once the turbo kicks in. The boost gauge reads 10 psi (when I can look at it). I have different wheels/tires than my stock ones, so may be that is why the traction is not that good? I don't know
Stephanie helped with the tuning but I need to learn how to do it myself... Help is always appreciated. I bought a DynoScan and did a few runs with that. Initially, the car was running lean according to Stephanie, but she helped adjust that. I did one last run and emailed it to her to see what she thinks.
Anyone else using DynoScan / Xede combination?
So far, the oil and trans fluid leaks are not showing up again... I hope I don't have to deal with again.
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:13 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
I finally got to really drive my car...
I have to get used to the acceleration since I lose traction in first, second and sometimes in third gear once the turbo kicks in. The boost gauge reads 10 psi (when I can look at it). I have different wheels/tires than my stock ones, so may be that is why the traction is not that good? I don't know


So far, the oil and trans fluid leaks are not showing up again... I hope I don't have to deal with again.
You will always be dealing with traction issues when you have that much power in that light a car.
Stickier and wider than stock tires are helpful to prevent a loss of traction under acceleration in the lower gears, but they can only do so much. And they won't be very good at near-freezing temps, but they will give you a notable improvement at 60* and up. What are you running now for tires?

I'm glad you didn't have to re-tap the oil pan, but it would have been doable.

Are you enjoying the rush of the turbo yet?
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Old 03-13-2009, 04:44 PM   #176
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You will always be dealing with traction issues when you have that much power in that light a car.
Stickier and wider than stock tires are helpful to prevent a loss of traction under acceleration in the lower gears, but they can only do so much. And they won't be very good at near-freezing temps, but they will give you a notable improvement at 60* and up. What are you running now for tires?

I'm glad you didn't have to re-tap the oil pan, but it would have been doable.

Are you enjoying the rush of the turbo yet?
Yes, I figured out traction will be an issue in first and second gear. I bought a new set of wheels with older tires on them and I think they are close to stock size on the tires, but I would have to check.
I have a small leak (not for sure oil or something else, but looks like oil) that I cannot locate, but I just want to drive the car.
The turbo rush is great and comes on relatively smooth...
I have two issues that I have to deal with. One, after a few times in boost and running in higher speeds/rpms (may be 80-100mph or so), there is a very loud noise as if the down pipe or mid pipe or the turbo itself (not sure) are hitting the chassis. When the car is cold, there is enough clearance, but may be everything expands when they warm up?? If I am did not go into boost and at higher speeds, the noise is not as loud and sometimes not there. Ideas??
Second, I'm trying to tune the Xede, but having issues. On the DynoScan, it shows the long term fuel trim as lean at idle, but when I increase fuel on the Xede MAF map, I get more gas smell and more hesitation if I push the gas and let it go. Also, if I rev it about 3 or 4K then let it drop, sometimes it dies. I did not change the timing or anything else on Xede map provided by Stephanie, because I really don't know what I am doing
Anyone has experience with Xede who can help???
Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:49 PM   #177
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Post your Xede question separately in the ECU and tuning section of the forum. People will read it there.

With regard to the noise, jack the car up and climb under it. Wiggle the exhaust in all three axis and see if you can replicate the sound. Try wiggling other things if that isn't it.

What size wheels and tires are you using. I'd be willing to make an informed suggestion on a replacement tire that might offer more traction.
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:00 AM   #178
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Post your Xede question separately in the ECU and tuning section of the forum. People will read it there.

With regard to the noise, jack the car up and climb under it. Wiggle the exhaust in all three axis and see if you can replicate the sound. Try wiggling other things if that isn't it.

What size wheels and tires are you using. I'd be willing to make an informed suggestion on a replacement tire that might offer more traction.
I started a thread for the Xede question: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32703/
I have a new problem that I posted there in regards to the idle rpm not going down. Well, tonight, after going through all the interooler tubes to make sure there no leaks and through the vacuum tubes, the idle speed went below 1700, to 1300-1400. With A/C and radio on, it drops to about 1100-1200. I tried the idle adjustment screw and it didn't reduce it much since it was already almost in closed position.

I also jacked the car and did hear any noise when I pushed the exhaust in any direction. Like I said, clearance is tight, but still, I could not get it to hit anything. I did find the air scooper can vibrate and contact the intercooler, so I bent the support pieces to get it a little further away.

As far as leaks, I cannot find this one leak. It's on the driver's side. I checked all the lines going to the turbo and I just can't find anything. The oil return fix is holding up OK and I could not see any oil on that. Here are the pictures of where the oil is:











Ideas?
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:07 PM   #179
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Power steering lines and/or fittings maybe leaking under load when the wheel is turned? Check for tightness.

Damn, that rust is terrible.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:10 PM   #180
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Quote:
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Power steering lines and/or fittings maybe leaking under load when the wheel is turned? Check for tightness.

Damn, that rust is terrible.
Thanks, I'll try that.

What rust??
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