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Old 02-10-2009, 05:31 PM   #141
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Update: I installed the compressor inlet tube after cutting the 3" off. I also routed the wire from the original oil sensor wire to the original connector and connected that to the oil pressure sensor on the block.
The LC-1 was a little bit of an issue. I was not sure if I can strip the insulation, but there was no way to connect things without doing that. I am not done with the connections yet.




The last picture is of my attempt to solder a lug to the ground wires of the LC-1. I had a junky solder gun, so it didn't work. I still have to get it done right

I won't be able to work on the car for the next two weeks but I will update with more pics when I get back.
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:15 PM   #142
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Shoulda put the LC1 under the console by the shifter or inside the console.
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Old 02-10-2009, 09:47 PM   #143
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My LC-1 is ziptied in the same place as the OP's and it works fine. If I had put it in the console, it just didn't work out. For me, that location just worked better for wiring things up.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:14 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Shoulda put the LC1 under the console by the shifter or inside the console.
I followed the suggestion of the LC-1 quick guide and I did not want to poke a hole in the shifter boot. Along with the turbo installation, I changed the clutch / flywheel / shifter boots... (besides brakes and reinforcement rail), so I don't want to ruin the new boots I installed.
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:02 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
I followed the suggestion of the LC-1 quick guide and I did not want to poke a hole in the shifter boot. Along with the turbo installation, I changed the clutch / flywheel / shifter boots... (besides brakes and reinforcement rail), so I don't want to ruin the new boots I installed.
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise
You dont poke a hole in the boot, you place the cable between the boot and the frame of the car.

Where is ur Wo2 sensor bung that you needed to place the LC1 under the car?
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:58 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
You dont poke a hole in the boot, you place the cable between the boot and the frame of the car.

Where is ur Wo2 sensor bung that you needed to place the LC1 under the car?
It's almost at the 12 o'clock position just before the Cat. I guess I could have ran it the way you suggested but I wanted to get the ground on the intake manifold and I thought it was easier running the wires through the engine compartment by the firewall to the other side where I ran the wires from the gauge...
You are probably right and it's probably safer inside the car... I may change that later. Like I said before I went with the suggested installation on the quick reference guide for the LC-1.
Here is the text from the guide: 1. Find a suitable location under your vehicle where the LC-1 body can be mounted. Using zip ties or other suitable method, fasten the body of the LC-1 device securely to the framerails or other mounting points as far away from the heat of the exhaust system as the sensor cable allows. DO NOT zip-tie the LC-1 by the cables.
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Old 02-19-2009, 08:36 AM   #147
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I have a couple of questions: I had a 'tune up' a few months before I started the project, including wires and spark plugs... Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? The tune up was done by a regular mechanic with regular materials. I'm still on vacation, but I had those questions on my mind... thought I'd ask.
By the way, I a short cross tube that Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:23 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
I have a couple of questions: I had a 'tune up' a few months before I started the project, including wires and spark plugs... Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? The tune up was done by a regular mechanic with regular materials. I'm still on vacation, but I had those questions on my mind... thought I'd ask.
Nope, youre fine.
Quote:

By the way, I a short cross tube thatsd Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better.
That's great to hear. The best way to get people to move is to light a fire under their ***.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:53 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata View Post
Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? .
The wires are probably ok. If they aren't it will become very obvious, very quickly.

However, the spark plugs MUST be gapped down to 0.030 or 0.035. Most stock cars are gapped to 0.045. The car will not run well if not gapped properly.
Stephanie
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:38 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
The wires are probably ok. If they aren't it will become very obvious, very quickly.

However, the spark plugs MUST be gapped down to 0.030 or 0.035. Most stock cars are gapped to 0.045. The car will not run well if not gapped properly.
Stephanie
And since he said he "had" a tune up it sounds like someone else did it for him. So more than likely they gapped them at factory specs. Good catch.
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Old 02-19-2009, 03:53 PM   #151
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Install new BKR6E or BKR7E NGK sparkplugs and gap them to 0.020.
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:20 AM   #152
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Update: I have everything installed and I tried to start the car. First time, it would just start for a second, then die. I checked all the hoses...etc and I even took off the intake manifold and made sure all the injectors were seated. Second try, I can keep it running by keeping the throttle down a little bit. It runs very very rough and when I let go of the throttle, it dies completely. I tried that several times, same result. I will post pictures of the final setup later, but I need some help on this tuning stuff, since I don't much in that department. I will also ask Stephanie about it tomorrow, but anyone with ideas.. I'd like to hear them. Thanks.
I did gap the existing NGK plugs to 0.025 to split the difference in recommendations (.020 vs .030). I bought new plugs but did not use them yet.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:23 PM   #153
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Check for vacuum leaks on both ends of every single hose and at every fitting for starters.

Check to make sure all of the sensors are plugged in and completely seated. Wiggle everything.

Double check all of the new and old grounds for bright and shiny metal to metal connections. Make sure they are tight if they are bolted down.

It seems basic, but you've had your hands on a lot of different things from under the hood to the tranny tunnel to the interior. Any one thing could contribute to this problem. Be thorough and take nothing for granted.

Good luck.
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Old 03-04-2009, 02:33 AM   #154
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Finally found at least one problem. The MAF connector wires are corroded and breaking. When I moved them while the car was running, it ran smoother, more movement caused the car to run rougher or stall... I need the MAF connector with 2-4" of wire to replace mine... Anyone has one? Let me know. Thanks
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:08 AM   #155
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I was supposed to finish my MS install this week, but school and family are holding me up. If you don't have one by monday shoot me a PM, I will be happy to send you mine at that point.
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:32 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
I was supposed to finish my MS install this week, but school and family are holding me up. If you don't have one by monday shoot me a PM, I will be happy to send you mine at that point.
Thanks for the offer. Based on what Stephanie said, I need one from an 01-03 model. You have a 92 right?
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:32 PM   #157
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lookin' good!
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Old 03-04-2009, 02:05 PM   #158
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Anyone have a MAF connector for 2001 to 2003?? Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:47 AM   #159
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Update - I had to figure out a place for the LC-1 laptop wires, so I found a firewall hole on the passenger side and passed both wires through it into the passenger footwell area.



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Old 03-05-2009, 02:51 AM   #160
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I also had to figure out how to fix the MAF connector - I could not find one at any of the salvage yards around me and I didn't get anything on the WTB thread I put in. So, for now, I fixed it this way:














I still would like to get a new connector if anyone is getting rid of theirs.
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