Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Beer. I'll join you.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

That's an 8mm inconel stud and the brownish stuff is resbond. What makes it even better is that **** is flush.

When I **** things up, I go all the way.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'm really confused how that happened. It wasn't bottomed out. Was it hitting something on the other side? How much force were you applying?

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Your build would not be complete without another unnecessary benjamin thrown at it.

Edit: confused as well. Not tapped properly? What made it bind?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

ALLTHEFORCE.

It turns out that the little weld blobs that ARTech puts on the backside of the flange to keep the studs from backing out do not work as intended when confronted with Inconel.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Oh. Ahh. Suckzors.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I'd like to make it perfectly clear that this was operator error, not some defect in the product.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Buy 10 drill bits and an ez out? Good luck lol.

PatCleary

Do you guys have a vendor with a plunge Edm that owes you a favor? Might be the fastest way to remove most of that.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

No EDM that I'm aware of, but I'm going to make some calls tomorrow. This is way beyond my ability to unfuck.

I ended up spending 20 minutes with a set of jewelers files removing the weld nubs as well as i could and then retapped the remaining holes. Studs feel super loose now, not sure if that's good or not

codrus

Yeah, breaking off a drill bit in the broken stud makes the machine shop guys charge you double to fix it.

--Ian

Jeffbucc

Oof. G, you just can't catch a break man. Broken studs suck.

How loose is loose? They should thread in pretty easy from my memory of installing the TSE studs. Besides once threaded all the way with resbond I don't think you'll have issues.

Resbond that ****, fix the broken stud, and put your nuts on and call it could.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the Resbond should bridge it.

So sorry to see this. Plunge EDM would work but it will take a big tank.

Can you get to the offending **** on the back side and file them away? Or are they internal?

Also, is there some way to pre-dissolve the Resbond chemically before attempting the extraction?

10mm stud in that one location?

Worst case, new flange.

End of solitary brain storming session.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

Dang! Thats bad luck.
I had a similar issue with and enlarged hole (not broken inconel stud) and ended up running a larger stud in that location.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Drop everything and take it to a skill machinist. Had the same happen with my turbo, 2.5 dp pipe studs were removed flawlessly for $75.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, I've played that game before but as the guy working in the shop. But I never had someone come in off the street with a piece of Inconel. I won't be trying to fix this myself.

They feel pretty sloppy, but the inco studs are also looser than the Nissan studs I had sitting in the garage, so it could also be production tolerance. It will get fixed, but its going to cost me money because this is beyond my ability to fix. I know exactly how to fix this but I don't have any of the tools to do it correctly.

**** are gone, see comment about jewelers file + tap. I didn't realize exactly how much of the weld nub was actually INSIDE the threads. I know better than to just go for it like that.

No clue, never really had to deal with Resbond when I worked in the shop. I'll ask Andrew when he gets back to me about the replacement stud.

Not really an option I want to pursue. The 10mm stud won't fit without A LOT of modification on the housing. Clearances are TIGHT as it is. Having said that, maybe I'll buy a TSE 10mm nut and see what kind of modifications I need to make. I know Soviet made it work, but he didn't exactly post a lot of pics of the process.

The point of using the 8mm inconel was finding an off the shelf solution so I didn't have to sit there all night like a chinese monk with a dremel and a file making things fit.
Manifold was coated by Swain. Just throwing a new flange on there may not be as easy as you might expect.

It's cool, I appreciate it.
Yeah, bigger is going to be a bastard.

If the threads can't be salvaged I can always try a helicoil or time-sert. Or drill a big bastard hole and weld in a new piece of material with a fresh tapped hole in it.

I have options but none of them are attractive.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

FTFY. This is G's garage, after all.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

We are 100% in agreement on this one. This is one of those things where I'm experienced enough to know I'm out of my league.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Just to give you an idea of exactly how badly I fucked this up, here is a pic of one of the "****" in one of the other threaded holes:



That's after I decided the force on the tap seemed a bit ...excessive. I removed the rest of that blob with the aforementioned files and finished retaping. It was not fun. The bluing in the blob should give you an idea of how hardened that material was after welding. At this point, I'm not convinced the Swain coating had anything to do with it.