OK, so I looked closer at the Marrad option.

You really need to sit in it.

Yes it seems expensive, but you're comparing a $750 bolt-in solution to $800-900 seats that don't include bolt-in mounts.

My Sparco Fighter was $600. $70 for the shitty sparco sliders, roughly $90 for the tall driver seat mount, = $760. And I still had to deal with a bunch of garbage trying to get it to fit.

The Marrad with the sliders and everything for $750 is a deal. Anything cheaper and you probably won't be satisfied with it.

For me, I like my fighter better than the Marrad in terms of fit and such. But if I were doing it again, I'd probably buy the Marrad, even though it's not my favorite seat for comfort.

^^ That. Ed gets it.

The Marrad and Elise options are truly a bolt in. There are VERY few things on the market that can make that claim at that price point.

Marrad got back to me with the number for someone named Jason who has one that is somewhat local. Going to go see if I can defile try out someones seat :)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d130c8aea4.jpg

Looks like my manifold could use a bit of manscaping :giggle:

IF you're 6 foot tall, nothing is truly bolt in because the only way to get below the roll bar is to cut out the factory seat mounts.

--Ian

Doesn't G pass the broomstick test in stock seats? Anything will fit for him :)

I'm 6'2. The Marrad seat works for me.

My drivers license says I'm 5' 8" and with the foamectomy seat I have to "lay it back" or I can bang the top of my helmet on the hard top.

I drove the Miata to work today, I keep forgetting how ridiculous this car has become. No hope of traction on 2011 vintage 48°F RS3s :giggle:

I really need to figure out this exhaust valve stem seal issue. Car smells super gross after sitting for a while and restarting. I'm sure this is not a healthy condition for the wideband sensor either.

WELL? :eek3:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447088547

Every time Ive had time to go screw with this its been raining. Usually that wouldn't stop me but my heater/defroster fan stopped working in the Miata, and I'm not particularly motivated to sit in the rain and figure it out.

Off to Arizona again tomorrow :P

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1447446938

Ok @Girz0r I finally remembered to put it in my laptop bag, are you happy now? :vash:

Meh, It'll do :likecat:

So its in. Due to torrential rain all weekend (as a Californian I am not complaining) I didn't get a chance to drive it until this morning. The heavy spring absolutely cuts down on the fluttery rubber noise I've come to associate with the stock recirc valve and the jet engine noises are reduced, but they absolutely are still there. Boost response seems to be the same but I'm not sure I'd be able to tell with just my butt anyway. I've not had a chance to look at the log.

I've also never driven the car with the turbo at 46°F. Old RS3s at that temp are ...exciting? :giggle: I will say AFRs and cold start were par for the course. I do love me some consistent tune :bigtu:

In for "Rebuild all the salvage Miatas pt. 2 ASS"

:likecat:

Life really gets exciting when you have to consider if going into boost in 4th/5th would cause you to swap ends.

But hey, aidan doesn't think there's such thing as unusable power, teehee :giggle:

woah woah woah. My quote was unnecessary power, I never said there wasn't such a thing as unusable power. Very different. :giggle:

Shit, I was super careful and I still had a small 'loss of traction' indecent on the way in this morning turning into the driveway here at the office. My catlike reflexes took care of it, but it was a solid reminder about stupid mid corner throttle application and cold tires on wet concrete.

Do you have boost by gear set up? If you don't you should.

I do not, but I should. Boost by gear and traction control always been part of the plan.

I'm still trying to figure out if I need a rear ABS upright or if I can just use the VSS for traction control. Go make this work so I can copy you.

I'm using ABS all around because I'm doing an ABS swap. If you got it just right you could use ABS up front and VSS for the rear.

Boost by gear is easy, and only requires VSS.

I need daddy monk to find me an ABS donor car :facepalm:

Well I certainly have that. What exactly does it use for gear detection and how well does it work? Do you currently have it set up?

It uses VSS and it works perfectly. I run like 8psi in second, and barely lose traction up top. Then full boost in 3rd and up because peasant torque.
I just realized I might need to adjust my pulse per mile because different rear end ratio. Hmmm.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447697369

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447697369

The RaceLogic wants sensors on all four wheels. It works nicely. :)

--Ian

Unfortunately I don't make RaceLogic money :P

as soon as you update to firmware that properly controls CL boost, boost by gear should work fine

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. I think one of my biggest failures thus far was not getting the car running on 1.4.0 before bringing it to you. Now I'm scared to death to try to update the firmware.

Its easy

Nobody does any more -- they've discontinued it. No idea why.

--Ian

Maybe for you. The last time I tried to go from 1.3.x to 1.4.0 it completely fux0rd my tune and the car wouldn't start. I spent DAYS trying to fix it and eventually gave up and went back to 1.3.x

Upgrade to 1.4 Copy list of errors.

Edit the MSQ manually for each error.

Profit

FWIW, my upgrade from 1.3.4 to 1.4.0 went smoothly with no issues. Needed to retune the initial value (now bias) table, but that was it.

--Ian

Fine, I'll do it on Saturday and you all can watch me suffer and whine for help all weekend.

I'll make sure to disconnect my phone :laugh:

jkjk

I'll be out of town :giggle:

You need an upright?
I took the entire rear subframe, and I don't need ABS.

Aidan; I haven't forgotten you little buddy. You'll get all your parts soon.

Possibruu... Aidan says I don't need it though. Wouldn't I need the pair? And the axles?

Curse Ed and his actually swapping over the ABS :giggle:

Its worth trying with just VSS.

You only need one for VSS 2 for ABS

You only need the upright for the sensor mounts.
The only difference in the axles is the ring, which just presses on. I don't think the axles are different otherwise.
Lemme take some pics.

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...erences-66318/

Saved you the picture taking

For Traction Control, got it.

Wait, that doesn't make sense. ABS only needs one rear sensor? On one wheel? Or I'm retarded.

oop.

1 for traction control. 2 for abs.

I believe this is correct, but do all axles have the boss for the ring? So while I may not need a whole axle, I'll probably need a ring at least.

Ok, that's better.

Read the thread I linked.

NB axles are segregated. ABS and non-ABS.

Advanced Auto sells ABS axles for $80 a piece.

My plan is to find a cheap torsen, and sell my axles and spare driveshaft and buy abs axles new.

You don't buy things new, who is this?

I buy things new when I can sell my used things for just as much :)

My axles are so nasty right now. The cv joint grease is brown.

I'm posting the picture anyway because it's awesome.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447710025

Dawww, kitty and my axle rings!

Hahaha! Beer, cat AND useful picture. Many invisible props awarded. :bigtu:

Part of me thinks I should get both uprights, just in case. Comments?

If monk wants to be your sugar daddy too then go for it. But i already dibsed the rings.

I bought 2 rear uprights for 125 from ISellMiataParts.

@Leafy do the advanced auto parts axles come with ABS rings?

I don't need it for a while, so I will happily trade my ABS uprights for you non-ABS uprights.

Oo! I like where this is going! I assume the uprights come with sensors? This actually fits in well with my pending rear ARP stud install. I'd imagine is much easier to do with the uprights NOT in the car. Rear bearings too, just to be safe.

Mine :love:

Yep. Pulled the sensors for Aidan.
I watch the scrap yards like a hawk though, so I will pull any if I find them.

unintelligible grunting

Cools. I'll try to send you a PM tonight and we can work out details.

If you're wiling to pull it in with a nut (which Savington says not to do, but I've done a zillion times and it seems to work fine as long as you're careful) then it's actually easier to do it on the car because that stops the upright from flopping around.

(for reference, I use a conical lug nut washer to hold the nut, enough other washers to space it out so that the threads don't bottom out, carefully align the stud splines with the groves that the previous one semi-pressed into the hub, lube everything up generously, and do it with hand tools, not an impact wrench).

I couldn't get the axles out when it came time to do the rear bearings, so I took it to a shop.

--Ian

I also want to do rear and front bearings, so I'm happy I have 4 uprights out of the car.

Ian: Rear bearings and studs in the rear hubs at the same time, shipping overlap on a set of rear uprights would make life super easy ;)

Aidan: Fronts are easy, provided you have the big socket and a beefy torque wrench.

I have harbor freight tools. And a big air compressor. I can do rear axles with my shit though, cant be that bad.

Cheap impact wrenches are often defeated by the front axle nuts. My Ingersoll Rand laughs at them, though. :) IIRC it's 29mm for front nuts and 32mm for rears.

I dunno what the right procedure is for getting seized axles out of rear uprights. Hammers & presses apparently mushroom the shaft and then you're hosed.

--Ian