Do they work with the NB belty parts?
I hit it with a hammer? :giggle: Really, its trivial. The sheet metal needs to be "massaged" out of the way so you can get full left/right adjustability on the mount. Tappy-tap-tap, test fit, tappy-tap-tap some more, test fitment, etc. Its NBD.

Now what IS a big deal is that I've got an idea, and I'm going to force you to all follow along.

http://2damnfunny.com/wp-content/upl...n-Futurama.jpg

Fair warning, I'm going to be switching between DS and PS in these pics so try to keep up.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6132f9cdac.jpg
So the Schroth harnesses have these clever and convenient doodads attached to the ends of the lap and sub straps.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ebb25bf33.jpg
Schroth refers to these as B14 Snap-In Brackets for Eyebolts and Bolt-in Brackets.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...636e399eb6.jpg
And they designed to clip in to these equally convenient Eyebolts that Schroth also sells.

So as far as the sub straps go, I'm ordering 4x eyebolts with appropriate washers, nuts and washers (drivers side) or backing plates (passenger side) and I'm going to call that problem solved. You will notice the PCI mount comes with integrated mounting locations pre-drilled for both 5pt and 6pt sub strap hardware. It's like the gift that keeps on giving!

That's all well and good, but that leaves me to deal with the inboard (tunnel side) and outboard (door side) harness lap belt mount points.

We'll start with the outboard side, because its easier.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...78274d4424.jpg
As you can clearly see in the lower corner of this picture, to the left of the Gatorade bottle, I have an OEM mount point that I feel would be ideal to use with the harness lap belt.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...91f1a734eb.jpg
The angle looks good, and its an engineered point from the factory, so I think I'm going to use it. According to my reading, that bolt SHOULD be a fine thread 7/16-20 SAE bolt.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f75f2e2cfd.jpg

Remember this thing from earlier? If the bolt holes ARE in fact 7/16-20 (I'm going to try to buy a bolt today and confirm) then I "should" be able to order a set of eyes to replace the OEM bolts. I can retain the OEM belt anchor location and use the eyebolt for the harness.

Ok, so outboard is done, assuming the hardware all matches. I have a backup plan if this is not the case, but I won't bother you with it unless its needed.

So this brings us to the inboard side of things.

With the NB, Mazda changed things up a bit and bolted the seatbelt receiver to the side of the seat itself. While this allows the seatbelt to move while the seat is adjusted, it doesn't provide me with a mounting point for a harness like they did on the outboard side. I feel its only logical to attempt to duplicate the mounting point on the opposite side of the tub

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2144fdd88b.jpg
Something like this. We already know the angle is good, now I just need to figure out how to create an anchor. Once again, Schroth is one step ahead of me:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...431949352b.jpg
These Backing Plates should be perfect. I can put these on the outside of the car in the tunnel, and run an Eyebolt through the OEM receiver bolt hole, through a hole in the tunnel and into the Backing Plate. The receiver might be a bit of a challenge to access, but the Backing Plate should provide a sufficiently solid mounting point regardless.

Basically, I intend to end up with this on both the inboard and outboard, both drivers and passenger sides:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1316482369
Source: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...17/#post773246
(I actually had this idea BEFORE I found the above thread and pictures, thus the edit to add this content to the post. It's good to know I'm not a special nor unique snowflake)


So, what do you all think? I've never done this before but this plan seems logical based on what I've read. If something does not look/sound right please speak up, because I'm probably going to order hardware to do this sometime this afternoon.

I did that too. Your, "Tappy-tap-tap" was more like "Swing as hard as you can with a 5lb sledge". No bueno. No moving. Much sads.

My PCI mount came with a seatbelt mount thingy. It bolts to the seat mount.

Tappy-tap-tap was with a 2.5lb shorty, but it could have easily been done with a framing or regular generic utility hammer. Were you beating on the hump that the mount bolts into or the tunnel? That sounds like you were beating on the hump. I'll snap a pic and highlight the part I had to hit.

As did mine, but it does not solve my harness lap belt issue, so I probably won't use it. :P

I didn't want (and didn't have room) for the eyebolts to be sticking up under the seat. So for the sub straps I removed the clip thing from the belts and looped them directly onto the B24 bolt in brackets:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...46f087909b.jpg



and for the lap belts, I just piggybacked onto the OEM bolt with these B23a end fittings, which you put a little twist into to give clearance for the clip. I used the backing plates you listed, which are seatbelt thread.:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba0ad1213b.jpg
This allows me to retain the OEM belts, and these swivel on the seatbelt bolt like the OEM receiver on the driver's side does.

Yeah, not sure what you were banging on. Like G I had to massage the trans tunnel. That sheet metal is quite thin, bends easily, and it only took a few swings. Test fitting the bracket into place to see if it cleared took most of the time. Actual hammer swinging time was maybe 15 seconds total.

I use PCI mounts in my 99, and I was able to get one of these do-dads to bolt to the seat mount.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bbd8295e35.jpg

The angled piece on the right bolts to the inboard rear seat mount, then there is a bottom bolt for the bracket to be held in place. Then, you just use the buckle part from the seat, and bolt it to the right angle portion of the bracket. Clearance is realllly tight, but it works.

Clearance will be an issue, for certain. I'll probably order a pair of the B24s as well, good call there! My only regret is that I really like the B14 clips, it really seems to make things super modular.

@Mobius, how did you bolt up your B24s? Do you have mounts in the base, or backing plate and through the floor?

This was actually my backup plan that I mentioned but opted to not go into detail about in my already wordy and picture intensive post, so you really hit the nail on the head with this one. Of course now you've made me second guess myself and I'm trying to decide if I want to do the eyes as I described, or use these swivel jobs that you posted. Humm...

Yep, my PCI came with the same but I'm opting not to use it. I figure if I'm already going to add a backing plate for the lap belt, I can't justify jamming another piece of hardware in there when I can just use one plate for both sets of belts.

Thanks guys, I really do appreciate the post feedback. It helps me make sure I'm not making terrible mistakes with this stuff, and maybe someone else can read this (if they can find it) and learn from it as well. :bigtu:

Backing plate you have already listed, and grade 8 bolts and washers from the hardware store.

How modular do you need it to be? It's not terribly hard to unbolt them, or to unthread the straps. But they're under the seat, not sure why they'd ever need to be removed unless you were doing something that would require their complete removal regardless.

Edit:. Sub straps use backing plates.

Door side lap belts piggyback onto OEM seat belt bolt.

Trans tunnel lap belts use backing plates.

Yep, my PCI came with the same but I'm opting not to use it. I figure if I'm already going to add a backing plate for the lap belt, I can't justify jamming another piece of hardware in there when I can just use one plate for both sets of belts.[/QUOTE]

I guess I should have said this the first time, but I used the eye bolt as the bolt to hold the belt buckle on, and it also has the eyelet for the harness. Two in one! Like I said, it's really tight if you do that.

Well this took about a billion times longer than expected.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d5a1a54b90.jpg

It's very nice. I can tighten it down far enough that I can taste my lunch. Feels very secure. Sadly, pax side is still OEM 3 points, so I won't be giving any rides this year at MRLS, unless someone is feeling particularly brave.

And because I know someone will ask, this is what I did on the tunnel side:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de0f63d366.jpg

After looking at it and scratching my head a bunch, I used the bracket and backing plates that @cal_len1 was talking about that came with my PC mount, AND one of the eyes and backing plates I bought from @afm. So PCI belt bracket is secured to the seat base point, through the floor with a backup plate, and through the tunnel with a backup plate. Thats 3 points of contact for that one mount. I feel like it's super duper secure now. I'll get a shot from underneath the car tonight so you can see how that all worked out. You'll notice no OEM belt receiver right now, but I'll add it later when I can get a slightly longer eyebolt.

Looks lovely.

I also did a shitload of other stuff and took zero pictures so I can't prove anything. I'm sitting in the jury duty holding room at the courthouse bored out of my mind, so I figured I might as well shitpost a lame update. :fawk:

I'm not sure if I mentioned it here or not, but the Miata got a new battery. My 3/11 production date Optima Red Top had finally given up the ghost, so on @codrus recommendation I picked up a Optima Yellow Top D51R. It's taller but much narrower than the Group 35/75 it replaced, and also much much lighter. I've been struggling with what I thought was a failing starter for a while now, but it turns out it was the battery. With the new battery it's almost like the Hand Of God has come down and grabbed that starter and given it a twist. Amazing. I know you guys will want to see fitment so I'll try to remember to get a pic tonight.

Turbo, manifold, downpipe, oil feed, oil drain and full exhaust installed. VICS manifold is off and bottom half of squaretop is installed. Intercooler is mounted but not plumbed, ignition and injection harnesses are swapped, return fuel line is in place, along with mtuned rail, ID1k, and Fuelab regulator. I also removed the VEI pressure sender and swapped it out for the Accutech sender for my fancy new SMI oil pressure gauge.

At this point I need to install the MS, remove the regulator from the fuel tank, swap the lines around in the rear for the return setup, plumb all the fuel stuff under the hood, plumb the coolant for the turbo, plumb the intake tract, reinsall the nose of the car, unfuxor the wiring for my wideband and ...start the car?

Here is hoping :x:

Nice progress. Smog for my car is due at the end of the month, and I still cant find anyone to "smog" my car. I really dont want to revert it back to stock. But if I cant find anybody really soon, it the only option. :cry:

then I have to put it all back together for MRLS. Ughhh.

It really is an SOB PITA, probably why I've procrastinated this long. Lol. Good luck with yours!

I've given up on the whole "pay a guy, cross your fingers, and hope no one get's a felony" smog song and dance. Look at it this way: removing/re-installing everything gives you a really good opportunity to look everything over, check everything, and make sure your setup is still tip-top, and fix/update whatever's lacking.

I dunno what you guys are talking about, my shit passes smog every 2 years like clockwork. Obviously you all are doing something wrong.

All my cars are bone stock, down to the paper filter. -__-

Bro. You gotta get a K&N. Any car can be a performance car with a K&N air filter!™

Oh also, did I mention my exhaust ports are bone dry? :likecat:

:party:

Must be your oil drain line. :)

--Ian

:laugh:

:bowrofl:

:giggle:

You did it better than me, I approve :bigtu:

:D

:rofl:

Yeah, my shit passes every 2 years too. Who knows what these guys are talking about.

​​​​​​

Always, every 2 years.

Unless you get permanent plates, like mine. Apparently our beloved CA brethren don't have that option.

Crocodile tears

im down! I gotta hans and helmet, and nothing to lose!

Hans doesn't help with a 3 point.

What is inspection? (Can't wait to rip my sticker off. NJ decided they didn't want to deal with tail pipe sniffers anymore. Pre 96 cars have no inspection now).

Someone is making one that does. I forget who though.

Simpson makes a HNRS that works with a 3 point. Called the hybrid. Which he doesn't have. HANS is a brand name, and doesn't work with 3 points.

Oh, why? Does it put a twisting force on your neck during a crash with only one side of the hans under a belt?

It just doesn't work. Its designed to work with belts holding either side of it. It becomes useless with 3 points.

This. There's no anchor if there aren't shoulder straps. The 3 point shoulder strap isn't going to work, and if it did, yes there would be twisting forces. The Simpson hybrid is the only solution I'm aware of.

With a HANS device, the shoulder straps hold the HANS to your chest, and that provides the anchor point for the helmet. 3-point belts are the wrong shape and not even close to tight enough to keep things aligned properly.

--Ian

Honestly, it's scarier than shit riding with you guys there, even with a proper seat and belt. I am just going there to visit this time.

:dealwithit:

My passengers, should any souls feel so brave and foolish, will have six points of restraining comfort for themselves and their Hans if they so desire.

I've got the harnesses and things, but installing is not a priority right now.

Your potential passengers sense your lack of concern for and blatant disregard of their future health and happiness.

This is what I think about when I'm the passenger in a racecar.


"Wweeeeeeeee!"

FTFY :giggle:

I should buy a HANS. Goddammit.

Rover will have a passenger seat at MRLS, for those of you who have nothing left to live for. :party:

For the love of $DEITY you guys should be riding with him rather than me. I feel bad every time someone gets in my car because they might be laboring under the false impression that I know what I'm doing, and think they're going to learn something positive from my example.

@Savington are you doing a sign up sheet for rides this year, or just catch you when you aren't driving or schmoozing?

I rode shotgun with you at MRLS a few years ago. It was an absolute blast. Would do it again in a heartbeat. :drool:

Yah this. As an actual customer, I feel a smug sense of false entitlement. I should get priority over G even though it was his question to start with.

Come bug me 10-15min before the start of an A or B session. Rover will be there as well as another similarly-equipped S1 car.

I am obviously getting old. I can't take being the passenger at all. Riding with you guys, especially with all the slow pokes on the track, is scary.

Dramamine. Unless the problem is something more profound.

I've started taking it every day that I instruct. When I'm driving I have no issues, but as a passenger I can be affected. Even as a child it was this way. I could never have been a RIO or other second-seat or backseat pilot operator station. Well, with dramamine I suppose I could have.

Scopolamine patch is better than dramamine. No sleepys.

I haven't had an issue with the non-drowsy formula.

Knocks me down pretty good.

Yeah, I have pretty much always been a crappy passenger.

The only time I ever took Dramamine was on a chartered fishing trip with my Dad, uncle and cousins out into the bay. It made me so loopy and stupid that I fell asleep on the deck and missed out on almost the whole the fishing trip. Though they did all pitch in and help me limit :giggle:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1790a7fe33.jpg

Ok, so 99.9% of the underhood is done. All I have left is to hook up the wiring for the new OPG and then I can check for leaks. Ok, maybe 90% as that brake fluid needs to be flushed.

Unfortunately I still have all the fuel system rerouting left to do in the rear, both under the parcel and under the car. I have all my fuel lines from last time so it should go fairly quickly, but I'm not going to hold my breath. Also need to pull the regulator out of the tank. Bleh.

As for inside the car, MS3 needs to go back to it's home and wideband needs to be hooked up.

As of Saturday morning I won't be in a position to touch the car again until the evening of Friday the 6th so I'm not going to have any time for a shakedown at all. Well, this aught to end well. :bang:

I saw this car yesterday. May or may not have been somewhere in Salinas and may or may not have been in a shop?

Good lord I hope not, it wasn't anywhere near drivable the last time I touched it. But then I'm fairly certain there is another Evolution Orange somewhere in the area, though it's in much nicer shape than mine.

It was at a miata shop. unless you have a doppelganger or i was trippin balls, could be both

There is a 'miata shop' in the area that isn't in the Bay Area? I'm immediately suspicious ;)

Ok, so I have a 'miss' and I'm not sure what it is. Before someone asks, no, I don't have a log. :bang:

It feels like a momentary loss of power. I can get it to happen fairly consistently going up the hill between 5-6 or 6-7 at WOT while climbing up through 5000-6000rpm. At first I thought it was the rev limiter, so I hit the limiter a couple times just to make sure I wasn't crazy (excellent diagnostic strategy, amirite?) I'm fairly certain it's not over boost protection because I'm on the gate (no ebc), and the car has no reason to detonate at that rpm and load with a 50/50 tank of 91 & 101 and the cool ambient temps.

Maybe @afm can chime in as he was in the car the 3 times it happened.

I'll try to rig up something tomorrow and find an SD card so I pull a log, but don't hold your breath.