Without a log it's just a cool story bro. lol
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See. I even downloaded a free app on my phone that can log for me.
But you need to change your plugs |
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^Monk beat me to it.
Actually, detonation is easier at cooler ambient temperatures because the air is more dense. It generates more cylinder pressure and makes more power, too. |
I would highly doubt it's det. He's running an uber conservative map made for 91, on much higher octane fuel, at wg pressure.
Possibly spark plug(s) or the janky NB1 ignition system is finally telling you to go LS coil |
Not using LS coils? Start there.
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Failed at SD card, but I did discover I was temp range 5 plugs, so I swapped them out for 7s. Of the 2 sessions I've run so far today, I only got the miss at the end of the second session.
According to MT wisom, my car shouldn't even run with the NB1 coil pack, so I'm going to chalk it up to that. I've got pretty much every other ignition option hiding in my garage, so I've got options. |
5s wow. Yeah the 7s should help a lot.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1444603)
5s wow. Yeah the 7s should help a lot.
Coils are the first thing I'm going to throw at it. The problem, as I see it, is the misfire would only pop up in the last couple laps (4-6min) of the session after things had been run hard for an extended amount of time. Sessions were about 20min (iirc) so there is virtually nowhere I can reproduce this set of conditions in public without getting arrested or dying. I guess I could try to do it on a load holding dyno with the hood down, but that sounds expensive and excessive. I guess I'll just have to run more trackdays :D |
Logs are useless at determining misfires. I've tried a bunch.
Your car is fast Gordon. Maybe shoot for 2 track days next year? |
Might want to throw a cam sensor in there too, just for good measure.
--ian |
How are your coils shielded from the exhaust?
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by a non-existent heat shield.
looks so good too |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1444770)
How are your coils shielded from the exhaust?
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look at it, it's right here --> <-- 100% efficient too :D
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1444755)
Logs are useless at determining misfires. I've tried a bunch.
Your car is fast Gordon. Maybe shoot for 2 track days next year? QFT |
So Gordon didn't ride with me in my car, and I didn't ride with Gordon in his car. We did not cross-pollinate each other with our own special brands of epic mediocrity despite this being, correct me if I am wrong, the first time in the history of the Miata universe that two former brotrex Bros turned EFR Bros were physically colocated at the same track event.
Sad! |
Or: you both didn't break anything. So there's the glass half full part :)
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1444755)
Your car is fast Gordon. Maybe shoot for 2 track days next year?
The addition of the Recaros, 6pt harness and Xidas have dramatically changed the car. I'll blather about this later in some terrible wall-of-text post, rife with spelling errors and emotional glop, as is my way.
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1444756)
Might want to throw a cam sensor in there too, just for good measure.
--ian
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1444770)
How are your coils shielded from the exhaust?
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1444772)
by a non-existent heat shield.
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1444773)
By being NB1 coils behind the head.
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1444783)
QFT
I know you all want me to go LSx coils, but I'm not going to do it :loser: Not right now anyway. I've got a set of Trackspeed Toyota COPs sitting in my garage and while I had origionally built a harness to run them in batch, I'm going to rebuild it and see what I can do about adding a couple more wires so I can run sequential. I suspect I will ruin my car in the process, so stay tuned for updates! :bigtu:
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1444784)
So Gordon didn't ride with me in my car, and I didn't ride with Gordon in his car. We did not cross-pollinate each other with our own special brands of epic mediocrity despite this being, correct me if I am wrong, the first time in the history of the Miata universe that two former brotrex Bros turned EFR Bros were physically colocated at the same track event.
Sad!
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1444797)
Or: you both didn't break anything. So there's the glass half full part :)
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IN 4 Anti-Vaxxer story
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It's in the officially unofficial official MRLS thread.
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So I managed to reproduce the "miss" I was feeling at MRLS on the street. I'm down to maybe ~2g in the tank, and I can get it to "miss" on highway on ramps if I get crazy and HULK-SMASH the throttle. I'm guessing that I've found the same fuel return issue that so many others are seeing when they pull the internal regulator on an NB in favor of an external vac referenced regulator. With no data to back up my claims, I've decided to order parts in an attempt to fix it.
This adapter installs in the boss where the old regulator lived in the tank https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1024_.jpg - Listed as "For Toyota Starlet , AE86 and 2JZ Supra" This is the one @codrus told me to buy, so I assume its correct. This is the adapter that changes it from -6AN to a 3/8" hose barb: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1dOqQUahoL.jpg - Mine ended up being anno black And this is the Gates submersible fuel hose that goes inside the tank: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg - It needs to be listed as submersible. The external jacket and some of the internal structure of standard fuel line is NOT rated for long term submersion in a fuel tank. You have been warned. The packages ended up looking like thus: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8508dad7b6.jpg And once its all stuck together.... https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...73b5b30a8e.jpg So now I just need to pull the pump hangar assembly, bolt it up, cut the hose to length, add a zip tie to keep it from wandering around, reassemble and give it a rip. Here's hoping! Unfortunately its become cold and rainy out here, so HULK-SMASH throttle activities are going to be curtailed for the time being, but I'll figure something out. |
In lieu of the adapters, 30 seconds with a hacksaw will give you something to slip some 5/16" hose over. It's not under pressure.
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Oh I know. For the majority of people following along at home that would be the easy button, and probably the "right" way to do it. But why do it "right" when I can throw $30 worth of parts at something? ;)
Unfortunately I need that flange intact. For reasons. |
That return set-up will do it.
But, please, put the COP’s on, at least. Or buy my ‘99 coil packs for back-ups and add to your parts bin. |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1450145)
Or buy my ‘99 coil packs for back-ups and add to your parts bin.
|
You need at least 69 more. And never install any of them.
In fact, I firmly believe you should switch to 1.6 ignition and batch fueling. I'd suggest carburation, but that's too much work. |
Get rid of the coil packs, cut a hole in the firewall, install a distributor.
--Ian |
Carburator? Pshhh. You just need a tube going from the tank to the intake mani. No regulators or anything like that. Thats how you break stuff.
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Miata is currently shod in 195s on stock 15x6 and loaded to the hilt with various extra Miata parts while I'm preparing for the 5h drive to NorCal. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?! :party:
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Swing by for a pit stop if you want.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1458753)
Miata is currently shod in 195s on stock 15x6 and loaded to the hilt with various extra Miata parts while I'm preparing for the 5h drive to NorCal. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?! :party:
Don’t you mean Nor-NorCal?Let’s set up some track days at T-Hill this year! Got the turbo bolted back on but it still idles like shit. Now I just have to replace my other melted bits like the speedo cable. |
Originally Posted by Cxracer
(Post 1458778)
Don’t you mean Nor-NorCal?Let’s set up some track days at T-Hill this year! Got the turbo bolted back on but it still idles like shit. Now I just have to replace my other melted bits like the speedo cable.
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
(Post 1458762)
Swing by for a pit stop if you want.
NB made it just fine to NorCal without explodificating, so at least that's one thing I can check off the list :D |
Wait, did you move?
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yes. he couldn't stand living so far away from me :party:
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Nah, he just wanted a better Sheriff. :)
--Ian |
But who's going to grow my lettuce now?
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1458907)
Wait, did you move?
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1458946)
yes. he couldn't stand living so far away from me :party:
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1458962)
Nah, he just wanted a better Sheriff. :)
Originally Posted by good2go
(Post 1458964)
But who's going to grow my lettuce now?
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:rofl:
Stop by anytime, it's more fun around here in the summertime anyway. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1459075)
I've been in NorCal for 3 weeks and I've already bought a gun and started growing a beard.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by good2go
(Post 1458964)
But who's going to grow my lettuce now?
|
:hahano:
There may be another benefit, I know some folks around those parts don't have the same "reasons" as the rest of us. |
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This looks familiar. Seems as though your car has sat as long as mine did.
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1479615)
This looks familiar. Seems as though your car has sat as long as mine did.
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Yeah, that's the trouble with moving. Too much other priority crap before getting to the fun stuff.
Good news is there were no rats under the hood or squirrel nests under the seats, so I'm feeling better about that. I need to retrieve the battery so I can put it on a trickle charger for the next millennium and hope my brand new yellow top survives 4 months of Miata dark current. :facepalm: |
I'm sure you probably know, but I literally just "revived" a red top 2 weeks ago and it worked:
RECOVERY OPTION #2: THE DIY SOLUTION FOR CHARGING A DEEPLY DISCHARGED BATTERY. This is a recovery method for the do-it-yourselfer using the equipment you've got in the garage. With this option, you're going to trick your traditional charger into charging the deeply discharged AGM battery. Here's what you need: Battery charger (under 15 amps) Jumper cables A good battery, preferably above 12.2 volts. (It can be an AGM or flooded battery- it doesn't matter.) The seemingly dead, deeply discharged AGM battery A voltage meter A watch or timer Now, here's what you do: Hook up the good battery and deeply discharged AGM battery in parallel – positive to positive and negative to negative. Do not have the charger connected to the battery or turned on at this stage. Now, hook up the good battery to the charger. Turn on the charger. The charger will "see" the voltage of the good battery (hooked up in parallel), and start providing a charge. After the batteries have been hooked up for about an hour, check to see if the AGM battery is slightly warm or hot to the touch. Batteries naturally become warm during charging, but excessive heat may be an indication that there really is something wrong with the battery. Discontinue charging immediately if the battery is hot to the touch. Also discontinue the process if you hear the battery "gassing" — a hissing sound coming from the safety valves. If it's hot or gassing, STOP CHARGING IMMEDIATELY! With your voltage meter, check back often to see if the AGM battery has charged to 10.5 volts or above. This generally takes less than two hours with a 10-amp charger. If it has, disconnect the charger from the wall outlet and remove the good battery from the charger. Now, connect only the deeply discharged AGM battery to the charger. Turn on the charger and continue until the AGM battery reaches a full charge, or until the automatic charger completes the charge process. In most cases, the AGM battery will be recovered. |
Guess who's still alive, bitches?!
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I was concerned. Good to hear from you again. |
So what's in the cardboard box on the fuel tank?
--Ian |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1510760)
I was concerned. Good to hear from you again.
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1510761)
So what's in the cardboard box on the fuel tank?
--Ian |
Are you back in your house again or do you have to stay away for a while? Everything ok in your house? |
Originally Posted by Cxracer
(Post 1510776)
Are you back in your house again or do you have to stay away for a while? Everything ok in your house? Miata & Subaru are dirty as shit. I accidentally left one of the back windows in the WRX open about 1" and now its full of disgusting wildfire stench and ash. Ungh. Nobody is ever going to believe me when I tell them it's a "non smoker" car. :facepalm: I guess at this point I should just be glad I have a house and a car to go back to. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1510740)
Fuck you Camp Fire
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Man! the fire must have been close to burn that clear coat off the hood.
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ab528a985.jpg
Oh shit, the front fell off! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...868d866793.jpg oH nO wHaT aRe YoU dOiNg NoW?! |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4464d8c83.jpg
Aww snap, y'all peepin' on my orange tendies?! Clearly, this man is srs. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1551047)
Oh shit, the front fell off!
Maybe, reasons? I know I got reasons coming up soon. |
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
(Post 1551051)
I thought for sure this was going to be the bug.:rofl:
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Clearly I can't get enough of this orange business
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6bbede70ea.jpg I like how with the Qmax, you've got a constant flow of hot coolant over the thermostat due to the heater hose outlet. Very nice design, and great machine work. Not super impressed with the brass hose nipple, but it's serviceable. The stainless snap ring and 1/8" NPT plugs are also a nice touch. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9320f28fe.jpg Speaking of nice touches... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea88786a24.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b7c63fedc9.jpg Stainless hose clamps with rolled edges appropriate for silicone hose! Nice :cool: I appreciate this level of attention to detail. |
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