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I started with a 2.25" borla dual exit muffler with turbo -- you couldn't even hear the exhaust.
then I got the 3" enthuzacar exhaust which used the 5x8x18" muffler -- it was okay, but still pretty damn loud.
when I tapped my rear end and bend the exhaust, I replaced it mistakenly with a 4x9x14" muffler (11219) -- it was HORRIBLE, added a resonator and it didn't help much.
I eventually cut that out and swapped the 5x11x22 in (12589); it is now the official muffler of miataturbo.net. I had so many compliments with it and converted many others to use it as well. perfect tone and loudness. doesn't drone or resonate.
one thing you'll notice is they sound they same -- but if you have headphones on, listen to how much bass/low end fq. is removed between the small and large one. I would get headaches driving with the small muffler for too long.
it takes a lot of muffling to make a BP sound good.
He won't do the big maggie, because he thinks there may be fitment issues.
I can hear the difference in Brain's clip above and I really want something quiet, so I might just go with his cheaper stock option and have a local shop put on the 12589/12579, based on what they think works best in the future. I think the medium option that can be done is likely passable.... but I'd rather get what I originally wanted. Thanks for the input. It'll likely cost a bit more to have things done here, but... oh well. I thought the 2.5 FM one was too loud, so I don't think I want to risk it.
So you have a professional building your exhaust and he is unwilling to make a 12589 fit? Maybe find a different exhaust guy. Or buy a welder and DIY.
Having one guy build it with the muffler you don't want, and then trying to find someone else to switch it over to what you actually want sounds pretty stupid.
So you have a professional building your exhaust and he is unwilling to make a 12589 fit? Maybe find a different exhaust guy. Or buy a welder and DIY.
Having one guy build it with the muffler you don't want, and then trying to find someone else to switch it over to what you actually want sounds pretty stupid.
So you have a professional building your exhaust and he is unwilling to make a 12589 fit? Maybe find a different exhaust guy. Or buy a welder and DIY.
Having one guy build it with the muffler you don't want, and then trying to find someone else to switch it over to what you actually want sounds pretty stupid.
But shockingly cost effective.
Its being built with an off brand china muffler included in the kit price, not a magnaflow, and modified once here. Easy peasy. Im not paying for two magnaflows lol. My post said cheaper stock option and not magnaflow...
Last edited by ridethecliche; Feb 27, 2018 at 09:14 PM.
Its being built with an off brand china muffler included in the kit price, not a magnaflow, and modified once here. Easy peasy. Im not paying for two magnaflows lol. My post said cheaper stock option and not magnaflow...
You're still buying 2 mufflers and giving your money to someone who won't fit a muffler we all know will fit. That would make me question this individual's abilities.
INB4 the kit sucks and you buy a flux core welder so you can fix it yourself.
Don't worry, it's welded in. The pan was really soft and porous so there were a few pinholes that popped up. Welder fixed them and tested it out and it looked fine. I just jb welded over the area to be extra careful.
It may just be my preference and an individual choice, but I prefer running a threaded bung that's welded. Oversized then reduced to match whatever fitting you're using for oil return.
I had a buddy who had an external fitting welded and he ding donged it during motor install making the threads unhappy. It's a hard fix after something like that happens, but with a threaded bung, you just install everything when it's in the car or replace if ever damaged.
I dunno, different strokes..
Is that Hawley's reroute? Did it give you clearance trouble?
It may just be my preference and an individual choice, but I prefer running a threaded bung that's welded. Oversized then reduced to match whatever fitting you're using for oil return.
I had a buddy who had an external fitting welded and he ding donged it during motor install making the threads unhappy. It's a hard fix after something like that happens, but with a threaded bung, you just install everything when it's in the car or replace if ever damaged.
I dunno, different strokes..
Is that Hawley's reroute? Did it give you clearance trouble?
When is thing going to run?
I wish I had known that before i did this, because that's likely what I would have done as well re: tapping and installing a fitting, then welding on the AN fitting, but.... it is what it is at this point. I was thinking of installing the motor with the drain line installed to protect it. It shouldn't get in the way of anything, no?
I bought this head from Vtechkiller actually. He had a hawley reroute on it already. I swapped the spacer out to the V2 and re-rtv'ed everything.
Re: running.
I don't know haha. The next two weeks are really shitty for me with school, but I'm hoping a friend can help get the motor in the car and situated. I still have to do the intercooler routing and a little bit of wiring. I would love to be up and running on a basemap. I need to swap out the fuel pump too, but I'm a little reticent to do that indoors because I've never done it before. Battery has been disconnected for months at this point so it's probably okay, but this is the kind of thing I might rope someone into helping with if they've done it haha. I think there was a good write up on here too I might hit up. It's hard to ventilate the garage I'm in as well. I was getting lightheaded yesterday just from all the brake cleaner soaked paper towels. Yeesh.
TLDR: I'm really hoping up and running on basemap by may...
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