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18psi 05-16-2018 10:36 AM

Hey,

Don't analyze THE DOCTOR
That's his job. Dun terkk his jerrrbbb

Braineack 05-16-2018 10:41 AM

from the video (not the wasteful 5 second one of your laptop screen and gauges) I hear a lot of solenoid clicking. what solenoid is that? also, your motor is very whiney, like what a bad transmission would make.

ridethecliche 05-16-2018 11:21 AM


Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 1482531)
Hey,

Don't analyze THE DOCTOR
That's his job. Dun terkk his jerrrbbb

Still a student.
Also basically said that I was a bit lost regarding what was going on here so analysis is welcome. I'm really not sure what you're getting at here.


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482535)
from the video (not the wasteful 5 second one of your laptop screen and gauges) I hear a lot of solenoid clicking. what solenoid is that? also, your motor is very whiney, like what a bad transmission would make.

Trans wasn't in gear for any of this, so I guess you're suggesting an input or pilot bearing? The bearings were replaced before the trans was installed, but that wouldn't have fixed any of the innards. I didn't hear any weird noises from the transmission while it was driving. I'll see if the noise changes when the clutch is in vs out, but I don't recall an issue with that. Didn't seem to be doing anything based on revs either.

I think the clicking is the fuel pump relay. It seems to click off because it thinks the motor is cutting out. The clicking tracks with the erratic movements if the tach where it seems to cut out. What were you thinking?

The compound log shows the crank sensor missing a few teeth since the time intervals between teeth increase during the moments things are having issues. The cam sensor seems to drop a few times and doesn't go up like it normally should.

Braineack 05-16-2018 11:24 AM

okay that makes sense actually (the fpr).

adding another half to full turn (CW) on the mainboard pot resistor for the crank input conditioning might not hurt to try.

ridethecliche 05-16-2018 12:17 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482543)
okay that makes sense actually (the fpr).

adding another half to full turn (CW) on the mainboard pot resistor for the crank input conditioning might not hurt to try.

That was going to be the next thing I tried, but I was crossing my fingers that I didn't have to open the MS.

I remember reading about Frank's (Westfield?) Guide for adjusting the pots and checking voltage. Does anyone have that handy? It looks like his site is down. I'll try seeing if I can find something on a search as well, but I hadn't seen anything pop up.

Thanks for the help.
And sorry about the useless video lol.

​​​

rleete 05-16-2018 12:18 PM

Going to be up in the "Cardiac Catherization Lab" on the second floor of the Remillard Pavillion tomorrow morning for an angiopathy. I should be there by 7:30 if you want to swing by. I supposedly have to "lie flat for 4 hours" after the procedure, so stop in and introduce yourself.

Braineack 05-16-2018 12:20 PM


Originally Posted by ridethecliche (Post 1482556)
That was going to be the next thing I tried, but I was crossing my fingers that I didn't have to open the MS.

I remember reading about Frank's (Westfield?) Guide for adjusting the pots and checking voltage. Does anyone have that handy? It looks like his site is down. I'll try seeing if I can find something on a search as well, but I hadn't seen anything pop up.

And sorry about the useless video lol.


here's all you need to do:
unscrew the (2) studs holding the serial cable.
unscrew the (4) screws on the db37 side of the case.
slide the unit partially out.
unscrew the (2) studs hold the green expander board (top db37)
lift expander out of way to expose the pot resistor.
turn the pot 1/2 turn CW.
reassemble without fucking anything up.

18psi 05-16-2018 12:27 PM

instructions way too vague.

..so put a screw into the cable and turn it 3/4?

Braineack 05-16-2018 12:31 PM

I wanna see the composite with the errors first. just cant here right now.

ridethecliche 05-16-2018 12:56 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482568)
I wanna see the composite with the errors first. just cant here right now.

I'll post a few spots where I see the issue when I get home. I made a note of them back home when a friend helped look over them. I don't have them on my phone, but I can either take screenshots or post the points where it happened.


Originally Posted by rleete (Post 1482558)
Going to be up in the "Cardiac Catherization Lab" on the second floor of the Remillard Pavillion tomorrow morning for an angiopathy. I should be there by 7:30 if you want to swing by. I supposedly have to "lie flat for 4 hours" after the procedure, so stop in and introduce yourself.

I hope everything goes well! Unfortunately, I'm on call for baby catching duty at a hospital across town so I won't be done till the late evening. Hopefully we'll get a chance to meet up soon in better circumstances.

Good luck with the procedure.
​​​​

bahurd 05-16-2018 12:58 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482560)
reassemble without fucking anything up.

Pretty tall order... :eek5:

ridethecliche 05-16-2018 01:05 PM


Originally Posted by bahurd (Post 1482579)
Pretty tall order... :eek5:

Good thing I'm only 5'10!

bahurd 05-16-2018 01:09 PM


Originally Posted by ridethecliche (Post 1482581)
Good thing I'm only 5'10!

:drama: :wavey: :D

ridethecliche 05-16-2018 04:48 PM

Just got back home. Here's some more info re:composite log.

The 'regular' logs look bizarre with things just constantly cutting out, however on composite log opened in excel line 303-306 show data but no triggers which makes no sense to the friend I was showing it to. Line 259 shows a 3ms gap where there should be 4 x 0.75ms gaps. So we lost some teeth, which is strange. The Cam sensor seems to have extra 'teeth' as well.

Here's the composite log: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JJr4_ ... UuwHazHaGQ

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...34&oe=5B7F7BC2

Friend wrote:

See here where the CAM signal drops and then doesn't go back up? That's a problem. The signal stayed high, where it shouldn't have.
Unfortunately I don't know exactly what spot that came from.

Braineack 05-16-2018 04:59 PM

yeah it does look like the crank signal:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...83fd502e92.png


cam looks fine. never seems to miss.

so check the gap first, then adjust pot resistor lastly.

ridethecliche 05-17-2018 07:21 AM

Thanks Brain! I'll report back this weekend and let you know what happens. I can gap the crank sensor to 0.010 with a feeler gauge so I'll try that and see how it reacts. If that doesn't work, I'll follow your instructions for adjusting the potentiometer.

008Miata 05-17-2018 12:46 PM

Is there any particular reason this has been thrown into the for sale thread?
I mean I realize your having some issues, but is it really time for a partout?! :p

Braineack 05-17-2018 12:49 PM

for the lols.

008Miata 05-17-2018 12:52 PM

K, well at least "in b4 other nerds" for the sweet parts dibs.
lol

hi_im_sean 05-17-2018 01:29 PM

$200 shipped for the head?


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