Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1482768)
$200 shipped for the head?
Tree fiddy. |
I’ll give you $300 for your headlight motors. |
Gapped crank sensor to 0.015 inches and turned the trimpot on the mainboard 1 turn CW. Car runs without missing a beat now. Just drove it for the first time tonight. Needs a fuck ton of work to tune again since it keeps trying to die when idling....
I don't want to fix all these oil leaks. Sigh. As long as it's not the FMS or RMS, I'll take care of it soon enough. I'm so happy that it's running!!! Thanks for the help troubleshooting this Brain! |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1483544)
Gapped crank sensor to 0.015 inches and turned the trimpot on the mainboard 1 turn CW. Car runs without missing a beat now. Just drove it for the first time tonight. Needs a fuck ton of work to tune again since it keeps trying to die when idling....
I don't want to fix all these oil leaks. Sigh. As long as it's not the FMS or RMS, I'll take care of it soon enough. I'm so happy that it's running!!! Now do some tuning and crank up that boost. I miss my turbo. Kraken stuff came in, but turbo still on backorder. Over a month already... 100hp feels so slow. |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1483544)
Gapped crank sensor to 0.015 inches and turned the trimpot on the mainboard 1 turn CW. Car runs without missing a beat now. Just drove it for the first time tonight. Needs a fuck ton of work to tune again since it keeps trying to die when idling....
I don't want to fix all these oil leaks. Sigh. As long as it's not the FMS or RMS, I'll take care of it soon enough. I'm so happy that it's running!!! |
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1483562)
Its a good feeling, isn't it?
There's a low rpm rattle that's eluding me right now, but it totally goes away with revs so that's reassuring especially since oil pressure is good throughout. Then there are the oil leaks...and oh...the alternator was sparking at the connection so that's great. I haven't broken anything....yet. Hopefully it'll stay that way! |
Finally done. Now what will you do with all your extra free time.
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hopefully fix all the issues
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1483877)
hopefully fix all the issues
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Err. Can this please be moved back to the build thread section when a mod gets a moment. Thanks!
Yay! Thank you! |
Finally had a chance to look at the car again today after baby catching rotation finally finished. Those things are slippery little fuckers!
In any event, I did the first oil change and I'm running another round of break in oil. I should get a magnetic drain plug, but there wasn't anything concerning at all in the oil as far as I could tell so I'll keep my fingers crossed. There is, however, a noise that is really nerve wracking that seems to come during idle and goes away with any load. I have a feeling it's an idler pulley or tensioner, so I'm going to have to order the bulk of a TB kit now... Also crossing my fingers that the oil leak is from the camshaft seal so I'll try doing all the above at the same time. I do have one quick question: How much of the dipstick should be showing from the end of the tube? I ordered a new dipstick and tube since I think mine were mismatched and/or bent, so i got the nb ones. The dipstick only barely comes out the other side when it's always all the through. I'm seeing oil level at just about 'L' when I put in 4qt. The other dipstick I have is longer and shows between half and full. It probably doesn't matter because I'll likely half a quart in anyway, but I'm curious why there's such a difference. I'm almost tempted to use the longer one so I can actually see the oil level instead of having it at 'L' when it has a full 4 qts! And for the record, I'm not running an oil cooler.
Spoiler
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Still looks like it has part-out potential to me!
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Just keep buying longer dipsticks until your happy with your oil level. :eggplant:
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THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A MORE RELEVANT PICTURE EVER.
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a6&oe=5BA6BEB5 |
:bowrofl:
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Originally Posted by Joseph Conley
(Post 1486437)
Just keep buying longer dipsticks until your happy with your oil level. :eggplant:
I think I may have used an NA8 pan since that's what I had on hand. The goal was to get better resolution of the oil level after calibrating/marking it to whatever amount was put in...not compensate for a lack of oil. |
Put your drain plug back in first... |
1. Put in 4 quarts
2. Note level on dipstick. 3. This is the new "full". |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1486449)
1. Put in 4 quarts
2. Note level on dipstick. 3. This is the new "full". |
Originally Posted by thirdgen
(Post 1486448)
Put your drain plug back in first...
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1486449)
1. Put in 4 quarts
2. Note level on dipstick. 3. This is the new "full".
Originally Posted by wackbards
(Post 1486463)
Like six says: It isn't the length of your dipstick that matters, it's how you use it. Unless it isn't even getting wet. Then you've got real problems.
This is why I was wondering if there's a difference between the oil pans which could lead to this difference. NB tube in NB dipstick. I'm not sure how this could ever read anything past L.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b45f441299.jpg ??? Dipstick in NB tube. Oh look! Resolution! It doesn't bottom out when it goes in... so. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5c6a0183a8.jpg Mostly I'm just curious why there's such a drastic difference. I wonder if others have mismatched sets and aren't actually seeing the 'actual' oil level unless they did what six said. I remember hustler realizing this at some point too. I think he was overfilling without meaning to. |
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