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ridethecliche 05-13-2018 08:42 PM

Yay! Brain emailed me!

psyber_0ptix 05-13-2018 09:34 PM

So the motor is finally broken in?

aidandj 05-13-2018 09:48 PM


Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix (Post 1481968)
So the motor is finally broken?

Ftfy

ridethecliche 05-14-2018 09:52 AM


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1481971)
Ftfy

Plz dun be mean to my pweshes motur :/

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 12:22 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Well... Car starts and 'drives'...
But RPM has been cutting out like crazy and its been bucking around when it tries to move so I had to abandon break in and drive it home from a couple of blocks away. Not really looking forward to troubleshooting this.... i have no idea what it could be. Sensor gaps seemed fine with a cursory look.

Braineack 05-15-2018 08:14 AM

you probably need to flip the cam polarity...

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 10:53 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482219)
you probably need to flip the cam polarity...

So I swapped from a nb1 to nb2 head, but the senatse are the same. You're referring to the POTS inside the MS right?

I feel like this is a new issue since I don't think it happened when I had first started the motor. Then again I hadn't run it that long but I feel like it wasn't cutting out then.

ByteVenom 05-15-2018 11:49 AM

I cut some wire in his ms harness and we ran it into his engine bay and connected it to something else. Hope it works!

lol

I believe Nitrous 2 was wired to the CEL light on the harness in the patch harness. I cut that wire and wired it into one of the VVT wires. We got +12V from tapping into the EGR +12V.

I don’t think NB2s have different timing, do they?

You changed your trigger wheel right

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 01:00 PM

Per Braineak:


I suggest using NITRO 2, which should be wired to 1E on your harness which is the CEL light indicator (you're probably not even using it/set it up for your usage).


I move it to pin 3L (BRN/RED) which is the purge valve solenoid connector. Then there's 12v at the same connector on the other pin. so you can unplug the solenoid and wire your VVT solenoid directly into that connector.
We did +12V from the EGR (tested it with a multimeter) and cut the wire going to the CEL indicator and soldered in the wire going to the VVT solenoid and providing ground. Should accomplish the same thing per above.

Philly Miata 05-15-2018 01:03 PM

Sounds like you need to retard your muffler bearings too.

Braineack 05-15-2018 02:57 PM


Originally Posted by ridethecliche (Post 1482275)
You're referring to the POTS inside the MS right?


Originally Posted by ByteVenom (Post 1482292)
I don’t think NB2s have different timing, do they?

You changed your trigger wheel right

no, just make sure the ignition settings are setup correct for sync.

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 04:49 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482359)
no, just make sure the ignition settings are setup correct for sync.

I inverted the polarity of the sensor under 'ignition options' and the issue still persists.

In this video, I show my tach at ~30 seconds. It wasn't as bad in the video, but the attached log will show it cutting out more frequently and at a lower rpm.


Here is a log and tune from today. MS was detecting 'knock' for some reason but the car was in neutral so I doubt that's happening. There was also a rattling noise which had me a bit paranoid, but it didn't seem to get louder or increase with revs so I don't think it's anything. You can't really hear it in the video either. I'm running the 949 dampner and 36-2 trigger wheel and those are the settings currently enabled in tuner studio.

And of course I have an oil leak. It's not insane, but it's definitely there. I think it's the VCG since there's oil pretty high up, but it could be the cam seals as well. I'm just really hoping it's not the front or rear main seals.

Thanks for any and all help.

Braineack 05-15-2018 05:03 PM

le sigh.

some how i feel like you guys like don't even try with a programmable ECU.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a75d00c534.png


i wonder what le problem could be?!

pm vlad.

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 05:05 PM

Yes, I saw that. And the reason is #2 which is missing tooth at wrong time. This is confusing because it's a 36-2 trigger wheel and that's the one that I have selected. I don't think any teeth are broken off or anything.

The crank angle sensor is a cards width away from the trigger wheel. I can try swapping out the camshaft sensor if there's a chance that the issue is there. VVT is currently disabled because I got an error message when I tried to enable it, likely due to the frequency issue we were discussing earlier.

Thanks brain.

Braineack 05-15-2018 05:06 PM

post a composite log.

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 05:11 PM

This is the composite log from yesterday:

Oops. File's too big for uploader. Uploaded the file to drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Nl...lHg9dJmemdec92

Full disclosure, as you can probably tell, I am piss poor at deciphering the composite logs. I've never really looked at one before this go around.

Braineack 05-15-2018 05:19 PM

the only thing i notice there is the cam polarity -- but no sync loss in that entire log.

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 05:40 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1482390)
the only thing i notice there is the cam polarity -- but no sync loss in that entire log.

I'm really not sure what to make of that. The behavior was exactly the same last night as it was today and I switched the polarity in the trigger wheel settings from 'inverted' to 'normal'. That's the only change I made before I started the car up again today.

Here's the other composite log from yesterday, but I don't see why it would be any different.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JJ...vgWlUuwHazHaGQ

I found an mnet thread about the 36-2 wheels being touchy about the spacing, so I have it 0.015 right now. I think I saw miataturd write that he had to get at like 0.010 to get things to work well, so I'll do that next if this doesn't work. I don't really think it's related though... I swapped fuel pumps as well, but I think the fuel cut is secondary to the sync issue.

Would the trimpot have anything to do with this? I'm not sure if changing wheels affects that since having less teeth may let it deal better with a bit more noise? Kinda pulling things out of the air here based on what I've read.

Edit:

Brain, this is what it was like when the composite logs were taken last night. I have a short clip. This is before I reversed the polarity via TS settings.

https://youtu.be/KnVCRLeFUqg

ridethecliche 05-15-2018 08:15 PM

Here's a video of one of the composite logs as it was going yesterday.

If I make any other changes, I'll take another log of things. I changed the sensor gap... I can probably take another log now or tomorrow afternoon to see if that changes anything.

https://youtu.be/zxBYjATG3MA

Braineack 05-16-2018 08:49 AM

I'm trying to understand what's going through your head when you make/post a video like that...


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