sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

It won't matter at all.

Sirnixalot

Look's like I'll stop trying to reinvent the wheel and just go with the standard intercooler pipe routing.

Got some more done tonight.








Managed to get a bolt stuck and had to cut it

Sirnixalot

Jumping all over the place. I ran the saw for a bit to make some pizza slices for the down pipe.





While the saw was running I setup the drivers side of the cage to weld on the A pillar tab. Used a step bit to open up an existing hole and welded in a 10x1.5mm nut. The difference is amazing. Before the tab I the front bar would shake separate from the car, now if I try to shake it the whole car moves. I need to do the passenger side and top of the A pillar.

We are having an Autocross meet in 2 weeks. I am hoping we spark enough interest to do them again regularly.

Sirnixalot

Full day of work until the mig wire ran out


Finally finished the patches for the drivers side seat belt area


Welded on a mounting tab for the intercooler core. Rested the oil cooler above it. I figure if you guys can get results with it by the steering rack horizontal to the ground, I can get results in this location with some ducting.


Shot of the core from the front


Extended the upper radiator brackets. I am going around the radiator for the intercooler piping but wanted to minimize the cutting of the body


Dem mounting tab tacks


Shot of the captive nut/plate for the cage to bolt to


All of your map light are belong to this. The cage cross bar at the top of the windshield now bolts to this.




-16AN hose/fittings leftover from a different project is the perfect length and the fittings work perfectly. I'll need/want Turbo_tims adapter though


I beg of you be gentle. I ground down the welds because I have little consistency on round thin material so please ignore what I could not reach with the flap wheel. It will be covered in exhaust wrap



I am DONE for the day.

Sirnixalot

Such JDM packaging tape, many cr.net points wow torsen. Going from a 4.3:1 to the 3.9:1 on this poor 1.6 will need the turbo. Wonder if I should swap the diff onto the 4.3 gears

I have to wait until tomorrow to get the coilovers and clutch :(

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

How big is the island?

Sirnixalot

70 square miles.....max speed limit is 50mph

Sirnixalot

Awwwwww yisssss mothafuckin coilovers. Tomorrow I'm clearing the 12k springs to swap onto the front coilovers and move the 7k springs to the rear. No bump stops are on these so I'll need to get some.


The small boxes hold the edfc stuff. I'm going to have to reset the damping to the middle and spend some time playing with it when it's time.



24.2lbs on my bathroom scale for the ORC 309 clutch. Supposedly holds 250lbft so Ill be ok

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

That's a really pretty clutch. What do those cost?

Sirnixalot

It was around US$700. It only holds 250ft/lb though.

Sirnixalot

12kg/mm springs.....looks like the springs will be color mismatched, oh bother


I am seat mounts away now from being able to sit in it while turning the wheel and making car noises


Some OEM nissan turbo gaskets and turbo nut locking things. I am hoping these will tide me over with regular studs and the copper colored lock nuts until I get the FM hardware.

Also traded some tires for all the lines and fittings to plumb the turbo so that's sorted too

Sirnixalot

Passenger side rocker seam


Passenger rear firewall/fuel tank area


Lower part of the rear firewall/floor


Front part of the cage coated in Rustoleum Ford gloss grey


Shot of the down pipe. I may add one small pizza slice near the front to bring it a little to the left. I still need to add a flex section


Another downpipe shot


Finished welding up the manifold and reclocked the CHRA


-16AN bung welded to a shortened mixing manifold. Tapped the throttle body coolant port for a 1/8NPT fitting to use for the turbo coolant. Have to weld the next one onto the Kia water neck then order 2 more for the radiator


Swapped the 7kg/mm springs to the rear and installed the new 12kg/mm springs on the front. Tomorrow I'll order some bumpstops from the Honda dealer.

I am off on tuesday so I'll get back on the seams and hopefully have that finished to get the underside painted

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Please insulate the trans from the exhaust when you are finished. It will live longer.

Sirnixalot

The downpipe will get wrapped for sure. I need to hack up the stock header brace bracket and integrate a t bolt clamp to it or something.

Sirnixalot

Another full day of action and I am pleased to announce the seam welding is finished


Drivers wheel well


Passenger fender area space



3M 5200 marine adhesive/sealant. It ain't pretty but it will stop rust from getting to the frame rails.



Temporarily put in the dash and steering rack to get an idea about seat placement. The sparco evo 2+ is not feasable. I have another smaller unknown brand seat that I'll use


Before I am tarred and feathered out autocross events are pretty low speed and tight and the handbrake will come in .....handy


Catch can, no name red seat in background


One coolant line


I need a 1/8NPT to -6AN 90* adapter and some fire sleeve and the coolant lines are done


Sprayed manifold with some muratic acid, washed it off with water and wiped it dry then gave the manifold a coat of VHT flame proof. Instructions call for last curing temp to be 600* but my lowly oven can only muster 525*. Will be wrapping it soon

My brother will be tackling all the seams with 3M seam sealant and then taking the car as is to paint. Got a gallon of BMW A30 Interlagos Blue metallic to have him spray on. Letting him choose if it will be gloss or matte.

In the meanwhile my to do list stands as
Drop motor/trans/front subframe
Clean up & paint front subframe & control arms
Clean up & paint front brake calipers
Get all 4 rotors resurfaced
Put motor on stand
Pull oil pan to weld on -10AN oil drain bung
Pull cylinder head to degunk (valvetrain is covered in whats best described as tar)
Reinstall cylinder head with new Cometic gasket
Install timing belt & ****
Install rear main seal
Install new clutch/flywheel

I need to order
Intercooler piping & couplers
Turbo oil feed fitting & drain adapter
Oil cooler lines & fittings
Innovate PSB-1

jimmyneutron

Are you sure the frame rails should be sealed up like that? I thought they were designed to let the water out if it gets in there. Where as now it will sit in there and rust it out. Just my two cents

Sirnixalot

There are no holes on the bottom of the V8R ones so I decided to just seal them up and spray undercoating inside the frame rails. I don't really plan on driving this in the rain so I am hoping I don't encounter any more issues.

Vuti

You know that changes in temperature leads to water condensation on metal surfaces? You just speeded up your frame rail rusting.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

It will be ok. There is a big opening on each end and where it says v8roadsters.

Sirnixalot

lol @ changes in temperature. It's always hot and humid here for the ambient temps to drop below 75*F it has to be 4:30AM for that one cold day in February and even then humidity never drops below ~80%

I guess I should break down what I have done to both the car frame rails and the V8R pieces

Step 1
Wirebrush wheel and get to bare metal

Step 2
Brush on some Ospho and let sit for 24hrs Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947

Step 3
Rustoleum self etching primer

Step 4
ACE rust stop paint

Step 5 is yet to be done. I need to find an applicator nozzle that will reach all the way up and down the inside of the OEM rails for the zeibart type rust proofing.

I was aiming to mitigate water that I would drive through settling in between the frame rails and the braces and coming through the bolt holes. For my climate I think this was the best compromise.

But you guys have given me some food for thought and I'll read up a little more, it's not like I can't remove the front and rear sections of sealant for some more breathing room between them.