The cooling issues I had when I broke in the motor were temps getting up to like 205f driving around on the street, nothing actually bad. Before this motor I had on under tray ducting with the B3 and just a plate up where the hood latch is supposed to be. I had zero issues with heat then. I went this route with ducting this time because it looked easy to do and I figured it could not be worse then air swirling up into the bumper. With the B3 intercooler I can't really see how to bypass air around it coming through the bumper opening. It takes up the whole opening as is. If I do end up having some issues I will change it up some and see. It will be a bit before I get to try it out though. Rain for the next week or so straight.

 

In my experience, trying to feed the radiator from the back of the IC resulted in rapid overheating under load. On the street, it may work, but on the track, it was a train wreck.

 

Is that the same T3 that is used in the MKturbo kits?

 

I will see once it gets nice out. I need to get some pictures of the bumper on and how much room the IC takes up. I built it this way with the assumption that not a ton of air was getting around the IC anyways and getting to the radiator fresh.

Yes, because it is one of my MKTurbo setups on the car.

 

I don't believe that will be a good idea. Move the intercooler back and let some air go over it. Leave only a couple of inches between the IC and radiator and that should open more room between the cooler and the crossbar. Also know that air goes up and over the crossbar and then to the radiator in stock form. You probably don't want to block that off. Locating the IC as low as possible will help more with the opening between it and the crossbar as well.

 

I think to route air around the IC you'd have to move it back, closer to the radiator, then do ducting that forces some through the IC and some to the rad.

Note: I do not know if this is possible, as I don't know my way around that area on NA's very well.

 

Aaaaand i should have hit refresh before posting.

 

Might this be how BEGI is proposing to use the B3, and yet get some air to the radiator?

 

I have one of those in my garage if anyone wants it for cheapsies to try it.

 

I am pretty sure it would come off the first time I drove out of my driveway. I have had a shitty week at work. I have not been back out into the garage since I messed with stuff on Monday. I should be out this weekend to work on the car some more.

 

is that oil drain acceptable? looks a little long and low

 

It has been shortened. It was a random -8 line that I had laying around.

 

Since my last post I really have not had any time to mess with this car. Finally this past weekend I had some spare time so decided to work on a few things. I redid my steering rack, as it was way off center and I was afraid of not being able to hit the TOE numbers I wanted. I also moved back the IC a good bit so now there is room below and above the IC for air to pass around. This enabled me to put the stock bumper ducting back in place. I painted the IC black so you can't see it any more. I prefer the look of that much better.

Alignment is scheduled for tomorrow at noon. I have all the camber currently since I stupidly installed the SadFab offset bushings, along with the extended ball joints. It will be interesting to see what my numbers are when the car goes up on the rack tomorrow. Since I can run all the camber I raised the car a little bit. This is mostly to make getting in an out of my driveway a bit easier, I think I am around 4.75" front pinch welds and 5" rear pinch welds.

I also finally placed an order with RevLimter for some TRUBO gauges. I have wanted them for a while and finally decided to go with them for his black Friday sale. 3rd Millennium M800 speakers were also ordered to replace the stock door speakers. Since I don't have headrest speakers any more I wanted something a bit better up front.

Driving the car yesterday was the first real drive since I got it running. It shakes a good bit and rattles, but who cares because RACE CAR. I had forgotten how nice boost was. Even at 8.5psi it felt pretty good. Looking forward to more warm days in my future so I can get out and drive it more.

 

Needs moar boosts.

I'm happy to see you getting something closer to track ready. I'll be retired from track driving before my buddies get finished building their cars.

 

Boost will get turned up once I have some more miles on the car and get the tune pretty good for where I am at now.

Track days will hopefully start again next year. I have several other purchases I want to get for my company before I start spending money on the track. I really want that diesel rape van. A big part of that is so that I can go to more Miata events and show off my setup and have a tent and all. Hoping to hit Miatapalooze, MATG, Miatas@Myrtle Beach, and Miata's in Boone next year.

 

Vans aren't necessary for decent rapes. Moar boosts are necessary for track rapes.

 

Can you fix pictures? All links are broken. :/

 

Which pictures? If you mean from the first few pages, then most likely no. As those are at least 7 years old and I don't even remember what I posted there.

 

Any updates on the ducting?

Also, for the love of god, USE A JIGSAW for those cuts!

 

Yeah. Sounds like pics are goners.