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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #941  
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Originally Posted by hustler
rub oil or grease around the inside of the v-band clamp, that will help it slide into place.

Any tips for affirming a good seal on all joints? I always do mine alone. I had a really tough time with my wastegate and I'm not sure it's sealing. I don't see any black-stuff on the surface though.
Once I actually get all the V-Band clamps on I never have sealing issues. It is just holding the down pipe against the turbo and then actually being able to get the clamp on correctly then finding a way while holding it in place to actually fit a socket and tighten it.

Wastegate has never given me an issue. A light tap with a hammer and the fire-ring site nicely and seals.

Originally Posted by Braineack
dude, he just can't hold the DP and install it at the same time now.. that's all. it's hovering in place.
I got the downpipe on and tightened, but the bottom section is slightly off and not sealing. Right now it is being held up with my testpipe in place. I literally just need my friend to come over and being able to tighten the clamp bolt while I hold DP and clamp in place. With help it takes 2min tops.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:19 PM
  #942  
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Grow an arm??

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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #943  
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Originally Posted by wittyworks
Grow an arm??

I am pretty sure if I knew how to grow a third arm, I could some how make a ton of money off it, then just pay someone to put my car together.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #944  
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Legit response.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:58 PM
  #945  
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or you could just mastRbate all the time without letting on.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #946  
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Legit response.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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Put the V-band clamp on the DP, in the groove...work that onto the turbonator, then, using one hand, grip the clamp while you grab the 11mm on the drill and zip it snug.

Make sure and lube your v-band bolt threads first.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #948  
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7/16 is the proper size but whatev. This is why I get cheap simple 1/4-28 nut and put that on first before the lock nut. Easy to spin the basic nut with your free fingers while you hold the clamp tight with your other hand. Then tighten, then add the lock nut with some sort of antigalling lube.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #949  
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
7/16 is the proper size but whatev. This is why I get cheap simple 1/4-28 nut and put that on first before the lock nut. Easy to spin the basic nut with your free fingers while you hold the clamp tight with your other hand. Drop some poppers to loosen up, snug up your nuts, then add the lock nut with some sort of warming gel.
V-bands keepin my nuts snug.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 03:38 PM
  #950  
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I am getting picked up by a friend around 4:30 today and then will go home and with his help I will win.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #951  
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Car is back together but my oil feed line is broken and leaks. I need to make a new one.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 09:04 PM
  #952  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Car is back together but my oil feed line is broken and leaks. I need to make a new one.
I don't know if you started with BEGi fittings like I did...but FYI they are a different thread pitch than what I ordered.
Old Jan 12, 2012 | 10:20 PM
  #953  
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Originally Posted by hustler
I don't know if you started with BEGi fittings like I did...but FYI they are a different thread pitch than what I ordered.
All the threads on my BEGi lines have been correct -4an pitch, only one has given me problems and it was after almost 5 years so I guess it is ok. The oil feed line is what broke, and basically the earls fitting came off. It will not screw on and hold correctly. So tomorrow I will pull off both ends, and attach them to the other spare hose I have.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 01:48 AM
  #954  
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Please tell me tips and tricks for assembling a small AN fitted hose.

How much angular play is there for a vband clamp? When I reassembled my downpipe/exhaust, it now touches the trans tunnel when before it didn't.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 08:37 AM
  #955  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Please tell me tips and tricks for assembling a small AN fitted hose.
If I had any good ones, I am betting the last line I made would not be broken right how.

Originally Posted by Faeflora
How much angular play is there for a vband clamp? When I reassembled my downpipe/exhaust, it now touches the trans tunnel when before it didn't.
As far as I know there should be no play with the v-band clamps. You press one end flat against the other and clamp.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 08:41 AM
  #956  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Please tell me tips and tricks for assembling a small AN fitted hose.

How much angular play is there for a vband clamp? When I reassembled my downpipe/exhaust, it now touches the trans tunnel when before it didn't.
Chope/cut them with a chisel and sledge, lube the ferrule buy aircraft wrenches to keep everything pretty. Some hoses are harder to assemble than others.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #957  
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Originally Posted by hustler
Chope/cut them with a chisel and sledge, lube the ferrule buy aircraft wrenches to keep everything pretty. Some hoses are harder to assemble than others.
I have always used an angle grinder to cut my lines. With electric tape around they have always cut cleanly. I think it all comes down to that sometimes the hoses are just a royal PITA to make. The other end of the hose that broke is perfect, the broken end has always just felt a bit off.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 10:16 AM
  #958  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
I have always used an angle grinder to cut my lines. With electric tape around they have always cut cleanly. I think it all comes down to that sometimes the hoses are just a royal PITA to make. The other end of the hose that broke is perfect, the broken end has always just felt a bit off.
You can't use the angle grinder on fuel lines and it's probably not a great idea to use it on oil lines. I've also found the chopping method takes about 2 seconds and it's straighter than the Dremel or grinder.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 10:35 AM
  #959  
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Originally Posted by hustler
You can't use the angle grinder on fuel lines and it's probably not a great idea to use it on oil lines. I've also found the chopping method takes about 2 seconds and it's straighter than the Dremel or grinder.
It is because of metal shavings? I have always cleaned the hell out of my lines with brake cleaner before actually assembling them. Maybe I need to stop by Harbor Freight this afternoon to pick up a vice, and then sears or home depot to pick up a few chisel.
Old Jan 13, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #960  
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I used the grinder and could not get the fuel lines clean enough with all the little rubber ***** in there. So I ran the fuel pump for a few minutes and hopefully that cleaned everything out or my car is going to burst into flames later.



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