Then buy the Nardi steering wheel I am selling. I can hand deliver it this coming weekend. Then I will have money for an oil pump.

 

I just managed to break one of the strongest stock rear ends put into a car. In my stock powered 72 F100. fuckme

 

New VVT BE oil pump arrived today. Debating if I want to shim the relief valve or not. I had 2 shims in my old one that I removed and saved. Honestly oil pressure seemed the same as all my other miata's even with the shim's so I am not sure if they did anything or not.

 

why would you want higher oil pressure?

 

purty

I've been running my VVT +1 shim BE pump on my MSM for the past few days breaking in the motor on amsoil engine break in oil. I'm very happy with my purchase.

 

You want higher oil pressure if running all of it.

 

This.

 

This. If you have enough volume to generate a steady 60psi then you have enough oil, unless you have a motor with very tight tolerances and that is forcing the pressure up. Pressure is a measure of restriction of flow. Really tight tolerances are usually not advised for racing or heavily stressed engines. It also creates a little more heat when the pressure is raised, if that matters to you.

Volume is your best friend.

 

Pump is going on as is. Will hopefully get it installed tomorrow. I need to pick up some gray RTV. I use the same gray RTV for sealing the oil pan to that block correct? I also need to weld on the bungs for oil return and oil temp sensor before pan is put on.

 

I've always used grey RTV for the pan, works well.

 

I have not personally sealed a pan in 3 or 4 years and I think I used a giant tube of something then. I will buy a big gray RTV tube this afternoon. The welding of the pan will be the most interesting, as my aluminum tig skills are not that great.

 

For my turbo drain I threaded a fitting in crocked to get it to point up the right amount, so the threads would have never sealed. I smeared some JB weld on the inside and outside of the area, 7 years later it still doesn't leak.

 

Clean, clean, clean, then clean some more. Then more cleaning. Then try and weld, then clean some more.

1/2 npt weld in bung right?

 

I have always used the drill and tap and screw in a bung with some jbweld on all my other oil pans. I have this pan off and can properly weld on the bung, so I might as well do it correctly.

Oil pan is spotless. I will say Luke did an amazing job of cleaning it up. I am doing a straight -8AN male fitting on the pan.

 

I tend to use the Permatex black, never had a problem. Gesso swears by "The Right Stuff" that comes in the giant caulking gun tube size. Is there really a measurable difference? I have no idea. Just make sure its rated for contact with oil and it should be fine.

The caulking gun is bitchin' though, makes laying down an even bead for the pan super duper easy.

y u no -10? Srs

 

Still clean it. Acetone and scrubbing.

Do an NPT bung. Then when (not if) you bugger the aluminum threads on the male fitting, you can easily swap it out for another.

1/2 NPT to 10an adapter.

 

Caulking gun is what I used in the past when I last did an oil pan. Don't remember what type of caulk I used in it.

I have been using -8an drains for 8 years now with never an issue. Not going to bother upgrading and then buying new lines.

I have not messed up the aluminum threads over an 8 year span on any of my other installs. So I am not that worried about it now.

 

Yes, but now that you've said that, it'll leak.

 

I am an advocate of Hondabond. **** just works. Permatex grey has also never let me down though.

Nice oil pump

 

Isn't Hondabond more for 2 stroke cases? More of a adhesive + sealant if I recall.