Boss Frog door bars, i love them.

Didn't realize i double posted the exhaust above, oh well.


Thanks for the support guys. This is my first turbo build and i know it's cliche to say i'm a noob, but i am. I can take, and need all the help i can get. All of the advice is well appreciated, though telling me what to do before i do it usually helps more.

 

Then i fell over.


next day




Bypass valve inlet? WTF to do with it, if i don't recirculate?


The list getting crossed off.






Blah blah you guys just want pictures.

/GoPro HD Hero2

 

Oh. and question.


Will need to reuse my stock o2 sensor if i use the AEM wideband with the megasquirt? I put my AEM o2 in the front / furthest up bung, and i kinda don't want to have to take it back out and put it further back to use the stock o2 sensor. This slipped my mind till just a few hours ago...

 

man the paint on your car looks so good in some place... I'm jelly.

 

Unfourtinally it has been repainted in the stock color. It has a 1 stage paint on it. It's nice but has its problems. Lower rockers are rusted and front port side fender is dented but I have a replacement. Once that all gets fixed up it will get minty fresh paint.

 

Well i know i vowed not to post anything but pictures, but whatever. This is where i'm at.

First start.



On the road for tuning.


Hopefully i'm counting on the 5-6 months it sat, plus running the heater in the garage, and the warm / cold changing weather. I think what might have happened is rust got on the pressure plate and flywheel causing it to slip like mad. By the end of the night it was getting better, but we put it away. Spec stage 2 by the way, it should NOT be slipping. My cooling fan was also not turning on for some reason, we'll get that sorted out as well.

Mainly because i was just maxing the ---- out of my stock injectors. So BIGGER injectors are in the works now for sure. I guess we maxed them around 5500rpm @ 6psi. Hit 140% duty cycle at one point. So more juice is in the works. Very soon.

Thanks to Lucas for doing the wiring and tuning today.

I'm happy to get it back on the road and going. But doing it right, and one step at a time is key.

 

No leaks from the bellhousing?

A spec should hold WAY more then your putting down.

The oil pressure will be high... its revving to the moon when cold.

 

That's what i'm hoping for, either it got rusted, or some type of fluid got leaked on it during the whole turbo install process. In that case it SHOULD burn off after time, but we'll see.

I think i might buy these injectors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPRE...5f9d9b&vxp=mtr

Anyone else running WRX injectors?

 

^That worm clamp will see 40psi if you've still got the stock fuel pump... I think it'll be OK. I put my entire fuel system together using similar worm-clamps running 100+psi (130psi for a few weeks but didn't know it) for a few years with no issues.

 

I had a SpecStgII that slipped on me for a few months... I called Spec, talked ---- about them, went on a rampage... then took the tranny off and discovered I hadn't torqued the bolts down all the way and it was entirely my fault.

That clutch was awesome, and I'd say even smoother/easier than a stock clutch, which is saying a lot. If it's slipping, there's a 99% chance you've mis-installed it.

 

Sooooo I guess my phantom clutch issue i had the other day has solved its self. Seems to be holding now. I figure i must of had a fluid, or rust on it. Here is some video. Looks like i'm going lean around 5500rpm, but i'm pulling down a hair shy of 10psi (wastegate pressure). I wasn't full throttle in any of these, but close to it. It also spools around 2000rpm, so very nice but such a workout for the BOV.

 

Idk. Phantom clutch issues seem to come and go. Was working fine for a while then started slipping after about an hour and a half of driving.

Might just trash this spec crap and get something better.

 

Hopefully this weekend i'll be ripping this transmission off to figure out the clutch. That's going to be fun with no lift.

Still nothing about the WRX injectors? I read somewhere that a custom spacer needed to be made. But i also read they were PnP.


0.0 THEY ARE BOTH!!! There is no easy solution. -.-

 

FWIW, mine slipped for a few hundred miles, then worked fine. Granted it never came back like yours. If it were me, I'd wait it out a bit before taking the transmission off, just stay out of boost. Disconnect wastegate and let the clutch bed itself. Keep an eye out for oil, in case it's your rear main seal making the flywheel/pp oily.

 

Get yourself some rx7 injectors or something that's plug n play. As for the clutch i would listen to curly, take it for a nice long 200 mile drive, drive like a normal person, and then see if it's still slipping.

 

So I took it out for about a 30 mile drive today after work. And right around 30 miles of city driving it started to slip. I'm not sure if because it's pucked and it is just getting to hot with my driving style or what. I can't say I was that hard on it. No high rpm shifts I can't rev past 5k anyway. Also staying low in boost don't think I went above 0psi very often. Maybe I didn't break it in properly when I first got it on my NA motor.

 

Thass sum strait up Nostradomus ---- right there, Homie

 

Throwout bearing is squeaking away pretty good, not sure what that means. Ordered FM stage 1 clutch. Injectors next Friday. And looking for an intercooler.

Last little video before it goes under the knife, when it comes back it should be back with 100% more awesome.

 

Greasy fingerprints.








I'll end by saying that, that's a 275ft/lb clutch. Apparently the "slowest turbo miata ever" is making more power than it should.

 

Thats a soled looking floor jack ya got there. How do you like the frame rails? I'm looking at getting some and I'm trying to decide on what brand I want to go with.