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Old 03-18-2012, 10:20 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearhead_3:16 View Post
Thats a soled looking floor jack ya got there. How do you like the frame rails? I'm looking at getting some and I'm trying to decide on what brand I want to go with.
Jack was just holding he trans slightly. Get FM rails and butterfly brace. You won't be dissapointed trust me. If you didn't have a dumb roll bar I'd suggest door bars as well but I dont think the work with the HDRB.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:20 PM   #62
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So. What turbo and how much psi?

My bet is that you improperly adjusted your clutch pedal or something and were slipping it a bit 24/7.

275tq=330 or so hp...
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:35 AM   #63
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gt2569 10psi

I never had it above 5000rpm because of a stock injector issue

Car can't be making more than 200hp.
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:38 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erat View Post
Greasy fingerprints.








I'll end by saying that, that's a 275ft/lb clutch. Apparently the "slowest turbo miata ever" is making more power than it should.
Not necessarily. Here in the UK Performance5 sold SPEC Clutches and a spate of them didn't hold their expected torque rating, Phil (P5 owner), realised that the SPEC pressure plate was not flat.

This meant that not all of the clutch surface bit onto the PP, which meant much slippage. Looking at the heat marks on your PP it could well be the same problem.

Put a straight edge across the diameter of the PP and ensure it's actually flat before binning the clutch. It may just need resurfacing flat.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:44 PM   #65
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Seemed pretty dang flat to me... I mean, maybe a ten thousandth of an inch off flat, really nothing i'd worry about.

I can't explain it. I really have no idea.

The flywheel was starting to get a little surface rust on it, so i slapped this clutch back on the dowel pins for now. The new clutch should get here Thursday. Any tips on what to get the surface rust off when i put the new clutch on. Scotch bright maybe? I have tons of that kinda stuff at work.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:43 PM   #66
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Wow this build is getting expensive, like it hasn't been already.


So i was doing a bit more research as to why my clutch may have taken a ---- on me. One thing suggests that my clutch pedal wasn't adjusted properly. If i were to have the slack adjusted to far out that it wouldn't allow fluid back into the cup, expanding the fluid when it got hot and started to open the clutch... But when i went under and looked, it seemed i had more slack than i should of had. As in it's loose at the top of the pedal... So i'm unsure, maybe i'm overlooking something with this adjustment.

6 day shipping turned into 2 day shipping on this.

Gonna need some reducers for this ^^ :( But it will work. I think power gains > flow

5 day shipping turned into 3 day shipping.


ps. Flyin Miata, you're welcome to start sponsoring my car anytime you want.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:59 PM   #67
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I have that same cooler or very similar, they look baller when hit with some satin black paint:

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Old 03-21-2012, 08:02 PM   #68
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You look like you have the proper 2.5" flanged one. Mine is only 2".

Thinking about painting mine black, but we'll see.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:51 PM   #69
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grease would burn off

unless you slather the thing in lard
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:55 PM   #70
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So on to clutch #3.






















WHERE THE FRIG IS MY MIATATURBO STICKER AT!!!
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:42 PM   #71
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In for full boost videos.

Lookin nice man, lookin nice. On a side note - does anyone know where i can buy a clutch allignment tool? I had one that came with my ACT when i installed it years ago but i've lost it. Now that i have the motor out and i'm going to do the rear main seal i feel that i certainly need it. Also are clutch alignment tools universal? like can i buy any miata one? Or does it need to be specifically for my ACT.

Sorry to ---- on your thread. Seriously one of my favorite builds around lately because all the progress.
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Old 03-23-2012, 05:52 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
like can i buy any miata one? Or does it need to be specifically for my ACT.
Any miata one is fine, you're replicating the gearbox spindle with the tool to ensure the clutch is in-line with it
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:56 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
does anyone know where i can buy a clutch allignment tool?
Any miata tool will work, i have 2 of them and any place where you can get a clutch will probably get you one.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:56 PM   #74
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Thanks for the input guys, that makes total sense - duh. Was able to get one on ebay for 5 bucks shipped.

Anyways what's next with the car Erat?
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #75
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Check all the torques. Fill with fluid. Put exhaust back on. Put butterfly brace back on. Shifter boot. Plug things in. Figure out how to adjust the clutch pedal, master, slave all of it. Hopefully then i can put 500 miles on it in a week. Gonna order my injectors here in a minute. Maybe reducers for that intercooler. Then by next weekend i'll be able to tune the ---- out of it. If it's not shooting fire i won't be satisfied.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:12 AM   #76
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Good thread. I like the mods you are doing. I am about to go down a similar path. Good luck with your clutch issues.

Craig
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:55 PM   #77
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Well the plan of slowest turbo miata is turning out to be a complete fail.

Well depends how you look at it. hahaha. I'm just gonna copypaste from my other project log because i'm lazy.



Got my 5o 750cc injectors in yesterday, texted my tuner Lucas. Threw them in, took them out, and in and out and in and out. But finally got them. By then it was a little after 11pm.

Tuned, went for a drive and tuned. After it felt good we did like 3 or 4 third gear - fourth gear pulls after tuning part throttle.

Found out what 20lbs of boost feels like which was NOT expected. Well, we maxed the chart, and boost gauge but i don't think it went much higher than that. So i have to call FM and see what the deal is with this wastegate (or maybe but hopefully not something else). I'm not sure if it's boost creep, that can't be it. Intake temps aren't even bad without the intercooler. But, last night was like 40F maybe? It was cool out. The 20psi was NOT planned for at all. I don't even want it that high. I don't want much more than 13psi. I'm running wastegate pressure which "should" be 6-8, and we found out was 10psi. I'm jumping almost instantly to 15psi @ 5500rpm then up to 20psi @ anywhere above 6000rpm. WTF

Car felt extremely strong, and best of all. My FM stage 1 clutch held up to what ever 20psi on my car is. Upwards of 250hp?? hahaha So that's good. Didn't end up getting back till about 1am, and i had to wake up for work 3 hours later.

Oh, also deleted some dumb vent thinger that was hooked into my MAP line. I forget what it was for, but it had a mitsu logo on it, so it had to go. It was screwing up my tune.

So next is. Add a litte more trans fluid, reinstall washer and fix reverse light switch wire, more miles on the clutch, figure out boost problem, intercooler, tune, launch control, flat foot shifting, tune, and more tune.


Quality cell phone picture.




Air box.





Also picked up a second intercooler. Just an ebay brand. This one has 2.5" flanges, which is nice, but it's a little taller. Not sure if it will fit.


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Old 03-30-2012, 07:44 PM   #78
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FM says it's either. Boost creep due to not having a cat, and to free flowing of an exhaust. Or i set base timing wrong off the wrong notch on the damper. Or the wastegate flapper isn't opening all the way / fully.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:49 AM   #79
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Which vendor did you order the bigger IC from?
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:18 AM   #80
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Which vendor did you order the bigger IC from?
This is what's stamped on the top. I got it for free.



I'm guessing it's just ebay.
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