-_-

 

Lever needs to be parallel at the point of pivot. It looks to me like it's binding.

 

You can turn your regulator way down on a compressor and test wastegate function without driving around with a camera.

I'm currently fabbing my own wastegate mount and I'd pay good money for a decently designed piece.

 

I don't own a compressor. :(

I really don't want to rule out that something is wrong with the wastegate. I would hate to have to take this entire dang thing apart, spill oil and coolant everywhere to port it and not fix it.

To me, it seems that port should be opening all the way. But because i'm new to this, i have no idea if half way open is what it should be.

 

Get creative, use a bicycle pump, or a power bleeder.

This is on a 2560R that's going on my SE-R, not sure what this wastegate is rated at, as I haven't installed it yet.




C

 

ughhhh, straighten out all those fins....


I'd almost want to stick with the bar/plate and hope it holds up better once installed. plus is has way more "turbolators" to transfer heat.

 

Man...this build has developed nicely.

 

Yeah. It's a give or take no matter what i go with. Because i have AC the smaller one will fit better, but it only has 2" flanges, while i have 2.5" pipe. So i'll need to use reducers plus i'll be killing my flow. On the other hand the bigger one is kinda beat, and will have a hard time fitting.


I'm going to rip this turbo off sometime soon and get it ported.

 

but also, look at how many more fins there are on the cleaner one...that will transfer heat better.

 

Here we go.... 10psi (or so) wastegate being pressurized to 15psi and only opening the flapper half way. That CAN'T be right. It has to be one of the reasons if not THE reason i'm getting so much boost creep.



Did some work on the fleet.



Washed the truck and grandam. Washed the miata yesterday, vacuumed it and put my favorite turtle wax interior cleaner/shiner. It does not leave an oily greasy finish like most, and makes interiors look new again. Then i used McGuires cleaner wax on the exterior. I like this wax much better than the turtle wax i was using. It comes off much easier. blah blah blah


failcamera


Interior looks newish minus the missing bits.




Need some stuffs to clean this tip. Not so much the inside, but the outer bits are getting funny looking.


Somuch STOCK negative cambaahhhh


This paint really does suck, don't let the pictures fool you.


It's a one stage paint, sucky but it's ultra light for epic racecar status.

 

Now because no one had any idea on WTF is going on with the overboost issue, i figure i just rip the damn thing off and do a full port / polish of everything - including porting a nice channel to the wastegate. What a PITA this is to get out.

Really it only took me like 2 1/2 hours.

I destroyed this dumb return line, i guess they aren't meant to come off once they are on. Ordering a new one monday... money money money.









Also, a stud came out of the block and got stuck in the manifold.



I called the jewelry store, told em make me a grill.

I know, i need to paint my tow hooks, get new ones, or remove them. They're nasty.


Then because i was bored as hell, i decided to paint up this little rusty nasty bit of crap. Plus that little piece i had to fold down out of the way to make the turbo fit. I really have no idea what i'm doing with this, so it's not the greatest. I also wanted to use a high temp paint instead of something that was color matched perfectly. So i may catch flack for that, but it's close enough i think. I also did a bunch of degreasing and grime removing on this side of the bay.

Pic heavy.



















It looks funny, because it's so shiny and new, and the rest is old and faded... Ah well, it's better than it was i guess.



I also got a bunch of fixings (minus the garden hose) to run 240 out to the garage. Hopefully i can get a welder and actually practice my trade.

 

Nice work. Wish I had 240.

 

a sweet build thread for sure. congrats on boost and I hope you find the issue soon

 

Got a question for everyone.

Should i run full stainless hardware on my turbo, studs and nuts? Just want to know if that's a bad idea or not.



Here are two pictures the guy doing the porting work sent me. (i just dropped this off today at like 2pm, the man works quick)

outlet


inlet


Pretty much doing the whole 9 yards while this thing is out. But mainly the channel to the wastegate, cleaning everything up, and a mild port of everything else.




Thanks man. You took my name, i call my miata "the miater" and my friends call it "the miater".

 

I like the picture-to-word ratio of this thread.

 

Here we go. Just got sent this while i was at work.

 

port wastegate channnnnnel.

 

Like this?

Gonna try and do a little before and after here. I'm sure you'll be able to notice the differences.

















The main issue right here. Hopefully this fixes my overboosting issues. If not... Well i'll be pissed, but not really because all of this porting will probably gain the slowest turbo miata ever a few extra HP.





Most indents in the casting were not ground to prevent cracking due to being to thin.

 

No one has ---- to say about the porting job? Tell me how much of a waste of money / time / effort it is. How it's not going to help. ect?


Anyway, i've gotten the turbo reassembled with stainless hardware, and put back together. Reused the lock washers, i'm sure they'll back themselves out in 500 miles. Tightened up exhaust piping. Added a little fluid to my trans. Drank a beer...

Waiting on parts to arrive from Japan. Then i'll slap this mofuggah back on and make fire. I'm hooking EBC up to the MS as well, and if this port job does not fix the issue i'm just going to run all the boost...

 

I don't see how it can't help. At the very least you'll get a pony or two, and lower in the band.

I would take the flapper out and do some porting just behind it too. Just try to keep enough surface for it to close.