curly

iTrader: (25)

Why not run the stock piece? Those are FM pipes? They even have instructions on how to cut the plastics to fit. Stock pieces would be best, they'd also seal on the sides and top.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

The stock piece i had rusted out all the screws, so the tabs are all broken. It would have been just as much work to get that to mount in than it was for the metal piece.

I kinda think that metal piece looks cleaner.

Techsalvager

the stock piece will work a lot better

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Though you may be right, at this point it's more trouble than it's worth. I'm going to start with upgraded slim fans. Then if / when i have money and it's needed i'll go with an upgraded radiator.

Got a ticket in the damn slowest miata ever the other night... 5 over out in the middle of freekin nowhere cornfields. uggh...

Erat

iTrader: (5)

No updates as of now. So i went out and took a bunch of pictures.

I posted these on 2 other sites, so some of you might have saw them already.


































I really hate how my lip is. I need to adjust it.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

What's with the cholo earring on the left rear?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Lol, Nissan emblem.

I need to cut that thing off. It was cool for about 3 weeks.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Still rocking the emblem.


As soon as i can afford to buy things again i'm going to get the Mishimoto radiator (2 row(unless you guys talk me into a 3 row)) and a set of their slim fans. I was running around 207F on the highway just cruising, this was on a 90F day. My intercooler was working damn near 100% efficiently. But the high engine temperature and intake temp was making me go slightly lean almost to 15.7:1 at some points during light acceleration on the highway. So i enriched it up a bit back to 14.7:1 almost all the time until boost. I'm also looking into a headlight air scoop for my intake, anything to bring IAT's down more i suppose. But to be honest they aren't to bad, on these 90F days up here i was only getting 100F IAT's on the highway, and driving around.

On a side note, what does everyone think of the exhaust cam mod with a turbo? Does it improve anything like it does on a naturally aspirated engine? Is it going to sound better? This is just one of the things i'm thinking of doing when i get around to building this other engine.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

The slowest turbo miata sure should not do this.

Got this turned on today. Took about 3 minutes and 2 trips up and down my dead end street for my neighbors to come yell at me. Haters.



Like it says in the video description, if anything i'll probably just set it to fuel cut. I kinda want my expensive turbo to last at least a few years. If i even have it turned on at all...

I also have it set to cut spark at 3000rpm @ 1* of timing. Not sure what's right, i heard 4k @ 5* timing can also be used. Not really sure.



Anyway, no insight on the radiator i should buy?

Now i'm trying to decide between the 55mm Koyo with Mishimoto slim fans OR the 3 row Mishimoto again with the Mishimoto slim fans. They are roughly the same price, both of them bolt right in, i shouldn't have clearance issues with the slimfans, and i've been hearing great things about both.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I'd just like to thank everyone for the help and support in choosing what to buy here.

I'll let the pictures / videos do the talking.

























Stickers installed.





All new Mishimoto radiator 3 row with Mishimoto slim fans. Should never have cooling issues again ever.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Went for a drive today. Radiator seems to be working good. I know they usually say 3 heat cycles yada yada.

But, during the drive i was only making 6-8psi. When it should be set to 12psi. I can't think of anything logical at all other than boost leaking. All my vacuum lines are intact and working, MAP sensor is reading 140kpa and boost gauge reads 7ishPSI. Wastegate is hooked up pre intercooler, but it was working fine a week ago.

Guess i'm just going to go through and diagnose.


I feel like i'm the only one in here. 5 posts in a row. -_-

curly

iTrader: (25)

Buy/build a leak tester AND move your wastegate to directly pre-TB.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Boost leak tested.

I'm loosing a ton of air. I just think i couldn't get all the valves shut, that was the issue i was having. Would build pressure, but would slowly empty, maybe after 30 seconds or so. I could hear air hissing past something, i'm guessing a valve and out the exhaust. I think i'm going to try again later Maybe when it's not so freeking hot, or when i get back from vacation.

Did not hear any air leaking out anywhere in the charge pipes or intercooler. I did have a little bit of shaft play, i'm not sure if that's normal.

Also, figured out the AC is full of refrigerant. So i have no clue what my AC issue is either.






Anyone want to buy a Miata?

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

A spray bottle of soapy water sprayed over all the hoses, IC, and intake will work great. Also, ditch that tire valve in favor of a male fitting like on your air tools. Turn the regulator down to 20psi and just leave it plugged in while you spray everything down.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

It's not leaking out the pipes, this i'm sure of. It's internally somewhere, but it does not seem enough to warrant a 5psi drop. And it's like my wastegate is set back at 7ish psi again. It's weird.

curly

iTrader: (25)

I don't know that you're supposed to test for leaks with a cam shaft in. Are you ever going to have all 8 intake valves closed? Testing the inlet manifold isn't a bad idea, but I'd probably do it with the intake cam removed.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Maybe i'm missing the point.

I realize where i'm loosing air, just not enough to give me the drop i am getting.

If i wanted to check compression, i would hook my compression tester up to it.
I'm trying to find out if something like this normally happens, or maybe is a fluke incident with something in the system.

Going to work on moving my wastegate line, and hooking up some type of boost control.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

You should cap off the I/C piping before the throttle body, that way you pressure test your piping. It looks like you left that part hooked up and only capped off one side?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Fixed the AC issue.

I feel like a major idiot, i pinched off a wire tucking the bay a little during the turbo swap and it was the wire for the compressor. Also broke a connector on the compressor but i got that fixed up.

At a loss for the boost issue. I am REALLY starting to doubt that it's leaking. It feels like the WG is just SET at 7ish PSI. I'm going to get some video of the wastegate actuator and see whats actually going on with it. But, i'm going to just work on this EBC deal. I'm sure i'll get flack for saying this, but i'm getting frustrated, and i feel like just cranking the boost to get my desired pressure.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Went to see how slow the slowest turbo Miata ever really is today.



Had a ton of runs today. But i was dealing with a heat soak issue. My times would be a full second slower if i just did a hot pass. 90F ambient temps, intake temps were 100+ at the start lines. That plus having to deal with a ton of wheel hop if i spun the tires. But it was nice not having to wait in line to get a run, there was hardly anyone there. And the guy doing the tech inspections was really nice and didn't really care about me not having a roll bar, or give me crap for anything really.

Basically what it boils down to is this car is not meant for the straight line. If i had 60F temps, with a bigger intercooler i could have hit 13.4 i'm sure. It was nice to be the only one out there to run the AC when i was in line, and in the paddock.

I want the BEGi intercooler, but i'm not sure if it's worth the extra amount of money, because it's really expensive. Gonna work on EBC here soon too.


Oh, forgot to post this in here. Bought some Revshift "street" engine mounts. Probably just going to wait until i build my other engine to put these on.