Slowest turbo Miata ever
Any dyno numbers on this thing? Curious if so. Or at least throw a good 3rd gear pull into virtual dyno and see what you are at there. That would be neat. 13's isn't bad at all.
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Yeah. Probably in the fall when it gets cooler out. I will probably also try to fine tune it.
Might try out this virtual dyno, i've never really looked into it.
Might try out this virtual dyno, i've never really looked into it.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
VD is a bit easier than i thought.

Seems pretty dang low IMO. I'm going to go back out and try again after i make a few adjustments. Not sure why my AFR's were like they are when i went WOT around 2200rpm. Also, i'm not 200lbs, i just had crap in the car.
Plus this was an up hill on ramp to an expressway, i'm guessing that would make a difference as well.

Seems pretty dang low IMO. I'm going to go back out and try again after i make a few adjustments. Not sure why my AFR's were like they are when i went WOT around 2200rpm. Also, i'm not 200lbs, i just had crap in the car.
Plus this was an up hill on ramp to an expressway, i'm guessing that would make a difference as well.
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
I'll post this so you guys can pick me apart. I feel my AFR's go kinda funny until i am at desired boost level. Also, my boost level seems to spike then settle. Shitty boost controller i assume? Need to get EBC working.
Last edited by Erat; Aug 1, 2012 at 06:49 PM.
Looks like you got some boost drop here. Where's your wastegate signal coming from?
Also with virtual dyno make sure you do the pull on the flattest road possible, then cut out all extra data before you graph it. Also when graphing it make sure you have the correct final drive selected, and at least close to the correct tire height using their calculator.
to break 13's i'd imagine you need to be at least 180whp, but I could be wrong.
Also with virtual dyno make sure you do the pull on the flattest road possible, then cut out all extra data before you graph it. Also when graphing it make sure you have the correct final drive selected, and at least close to the correct tire height using their calculator.
to break 13's i'd imagine you need to be at least 180whp, but I could be wrong.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
I'm pretty sure i have all the variables set correctly. I just had a bad "pull".
How would you crop what you wanted from the datalog? I've looked around a bit on megalogviewer but it's not very clear if you can do it with that.
Hmm, i just found when reviewing this datalog that it's saying i lifted at 6600rpm, when i'm pretty sure my tachometer was at like 6900. I think the tach reads a little ligh, which would also explain why i don't bang the limiter i set at 6800 all the time. Anyone else experience this?
How would you crop what you wanted from the datalog? I've looked around a bit on megalogviewer but it's not very clear if you can do it with that.
Hmm, i just found when reviewing this datalog that it's saying i lifted at 6600rpm, when i'm pretty sure my tachometer was at like 6900. I think the tach reads a little ligh, which would also explain why i don't bang the limiter i set at 6800 all the time. Anyone else experience this?
Last edited by Erat; Aug 1, 2012 at 07:41 PM.
nice build thread, been thumbing through it for a bit. on the virtual dyno question try removing some of the smoothness it will smooth the map to common points thus drop a few hp on the process. try like 2 instead of the 3 its set to in the pic
I think the tach reads a little ligh, which would also explain why i don't bang the limiter i set at 6800 all the time. Anyone else experience this?
Thread Starter
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Looks like you got some boost drop here. Where's your wastegate signal coming from?
Also with virtual dyno make sure you do the pull on the flattest road possible, then cut out all extra data before you graph it. Also when graphing it make sure you have the correct final drive selected, and at least close to the correct tire height using their calculator.
to break 13's i'd imagine you need to be at least 180whp, but I could be wrong.
Also with virtual dyno make sure you do the pull on the flattest road possible, then cut out all extra data before you graph it. Also when graphing it make sure you have the correct final drive selected, and at least close to the correct tire height using their calculator.
to break 13's i'd imagine you need to be at least 180whp, but I could be wrong.
Gonna do a little more work on it today, see what can't be done and post back. It's another hot day, here today 90F.
Looking at your VD graph, you are on your way to 200whp if you didn't drop boost so drastically. What's your timing map look like? and where's that wastegate signal coming from? What is your wastegates pressure, and what pressure are you targeting?
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Wastegate is coming off the compressor. I know that's not ideal, but usually you see pressure drop at high RPM's and i'm not getting that. It's an 8psi wastegate and i'm trying to hit 12psi. I'm really not dropping that much boost, it's a spike to about 14psi then settle at 12 very quickly.

Looks a lot like your old spark map. I am pretty sure that this is untouched, and i'm not sure what to mess with on this.

Looks a lot like your old spark map. I am pretty sure that this is untouched, and i'm not sure what to mess with on this.
Ignition is hella conservative.
You could essentially shift that entire map up one cell. At 12 psi youre at 12.9 degrees atdc, you could easily be at 16 degrees.
Also, move the wastegate signal to the cold side charge piping. Trust me.
You could essentially shift that entire map up one cell. At 12 psi youre at 12.9 degrees atdc, you could easily be at 16 degrees.
Also, move the wastegate signal to the cold side charge piping. Trust me.
Timing map looks like it needs help, but I'm far from the one to give advise on that.
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Still have no idea what i'm doing with the MS...
But in the meantime. I put these wheels on.

They're meh. Not sure if i like them or not. I like my Boyds to much to like anything else.
Picked up this hood the other day. I plan on cutting into it and putting some extractor vents in it.

Someone can make me an offer on either the hood or wheels, and if i like the price i'll sell both of them.
But in the meantime. I put these wheels on.

They're meh. Not sure if i like them or not. I like my Boyds to much to like anything else.
Picked up this hood the other day. I plan on cutting into it and putting some extractor vents in it.

Someone can make me an offer on either the hood or wheels, and if i like the price i'll sell both of them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Tweaked a few things, didn't touch spark. Went from 12psi to 10psi and got the numbers i'm more looking for.

Graph cuts off at 6200rpm and i took it to 6400rpm according to the datalog. Not sure why VD did that. I hate how the tachometer is so slow, when i think i'm at 7000 i'm not.

Graph cuts off at 6200rpm and i took it to 6400rpm according to the datalog. Not sure why VD did that. I hate how the tachometer is so slow, when i think i'm at 7000 i'm not.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
I didn't want to start a new thread for this.
But i have a question, on cold starts (ambient coolant temp) i usually have to cycle the ignition 3-4+ times after cranking before it actually fires. I've messed around with a few settings but i'm not sure which direction to go. Only ONCE have i had it backwire while doing this, which lead me to believe that it was cranking to lean. Was more like a spark cut pop out the exhaust. Coldest it's been was 60f and it was the worst. Even if i start it, drive it and let it sit for 4-6 hours then start it to drive it home that night it will start fine. Only when it sits overnight is when it gives me the problem. Otherwise it starts perfect.
Tune is attached, i have some video if that helps.
But i have a question, on cold starts (ambient coolant temp) i usually have to cycle the ignition 3-4+ times after cranking before it actually fires. I've messed around with a few settings but i'm not sure which direction to go. Only ONCE have i had it backwire while doing this, which lead me to believe that it was cranking to lean. Was more like a spark cut pop out the exhaust. Coldest it's been was 60f and it was the worst. Even if i start it, drive it and let it sit for 4-6 hours then start it to drive it home that night it will start fine. Only when it sits overnight is when it gives me the problem. Otherwise it starts perfect.
Tune is attached, i have some video if that helps.





