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Cat got skunked tonight, washed him with hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dish detergent. He smells better than he has in years.
Well, that was exciting.
Also this for Aidan. The grommet is extended and paper thin on the one side. It was behind the road bike inner tube valve stem stem area, also hidden behind the mountain bike valve stem area between the can and bracket. I think the rod gets hot, so heat shields will only help so much. This did not use the double grommet in washer seals since it was my first attempt. It still sealed well, 40psi no problem.
Nah, that's pansy sheyatch. I'm working on a heated hose to run my LN2 wastegate can cooling system. Yeah I'm gonna heat the cooling system line I just gotta make sure I don't freeze the grommet seals and somehow blow the chunks up my solenoid.
No I ain't gonna use it on my intercooler, might crack the thing.
After thinking about it, I remembered that my pressure test didn't include the compressor housing. I think I will pull it and add a little sealant between the backing plate and housing. Then some sealant on the threads of the bolts.
This is driving me crazy, I don't understand why I can't have a solid MAP above 20 psi.
Well, there's an o ring for the compressor on the large turbo, I haven't seen any on the smaller turbos. The 2 top bolts pass into the compressor housing, so I cleaned all the threads then filled the bolt threads with sealant. A little squeezed out between the bracket, the bolt heads and the housing, so we will see. Also put a smaller spring, so hopefully wastegate won't be in the oscillation zone anymore. Got that can so I can modify different aspects of it.
Here is a current picture
The sealant on the bolt holes didn't make any difference so I thought about it more. I finally decided I need to put a check valve to my brake booster, I am gonna let Vlad give me 50 lashes with a wet noodle if this fixes it.
Almost forgot, wine country is back in business so we are racing again starting this Wednesday. Hope to see some of you guys there, I am happy to help people learn how to make good launches, cut good lights, ect... With minimal tranny damage
This is my favorite corkscrew, self extracting, it's cool as hell.
I have to go to the dentist tomorrow (one of my favorite places,) so my wife brought home some alcohol to make me less unpleasant.
So, I have been trying to eliminate possible causes of my boost oscillation. The check valve for the brake booster didn't make any difference, but I figured might as well not put additional stress on the booster so I left it.
Next, I eliminated my PCV valve and plugged the manifold, no difference so I put it back.
Today, I disconnected my boost gauge since I got it from Nigel way back for like $10 and he said it was a total POS, nothing.
I made a nice little 3/16 check valve today that I will use to isolate all the remaining vacuum devices/sensors from boost. We'll see.
The car is running well, tuning for max injector duty is actually quite comical. It's a freakin' insane, monstrous beast. I need fuel bad.
I did port the wastegate but I only opened the diameter on this one with minimal blending and smoothing. It holds a flat MAP signal up to about 20 psi. I am running the DIY "map daddy" sensor.
I stuck my check valve on the evap canister first, or whatever the frick that thing is. I need to get a good sustained high boost log to see, not just spinning through 2nd short into 3rd, hopefully it doesn't rain on Wednesday.
I'm gonna do the same thing I do with the hundreds of wrx kids every day who "did a boost leak teast" on their car. Which in reality was just looking at their engine bay and saying "yup, doesn't leak".
Did you actually, smoke test for boost leaks? I just diagnosed a leaking intercooler last week. Leaking from the core. Just sayin
Ok, I didn't do any smoke, but I did pump the thing up. I could have been more thuroug, how about a spray bottle with soapy water? I will cap it off again and do a better job tomorrow.
The solenoid is pretty restrictive. I will try that first, then recheck for leaks. I agree it doesn't hurt to check twice, plus I was basically checking around for hissing and my hearing isn't the best.
Vlad wins this round of find the problem with sonofthehill's car. Bypassing the solenoid made no difference, except that I have a bigger spring in there now.
My leaks are from the adjustment screw and the valve guide of my BOV. The screw was easy to see with soapy water, but I had to actually spray some into my BOV which I was a little hesitant to do. That's where it's coming from, it's pretty over complex and I think a little sealant between the main body and valve guide assembly, plus a few o rings will fix it.
10-19-2017, 12:13 AM
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I just gotta make sure I don't freeze the grommet seals and somehow blow the chunks up my solenoid.
