When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
maybe add a water pressure sensor. you would have picked that up a long time ago.
I am adding one of those in on my car when I put in my QMax reroute. After Emilio has raved about them, I have decided it is probably a good idea. Sonofthehill will be limited because he is on a MS2 so I am not sure if he has any spare inputs for it.
Still a good idea, maybe I can grab an unused input and make an idiot light come on in my face, to keep me from being such an idiot. Or a complete separate system, wouldn't be very difficult to make.
I think I also need to upgrade my coils before I try to run again and be sure all my wiring is ok. I think there may be a problem with my crank sensor wires, they looked a little fubared, like the PO clamped them on the oil pump.
Don't ya just love that kinda stuff
Thanks guys, I tried to get all the air out, but I will give the lower radiator hose some good pumping after I think I have burped it well enough. Yes this is a problem with Miatas.
I was also in unknown territory with boost, it did pop and lose sync when I was ripping very fast. Then immediately after that the idle was missing, but it still ran great otherwise. The plugs look very good, I am almost ready to pull the head back off. I have to say the thing was faster than ever before, when I was playing with closed loop EBC, the tires were spinning in 3rd on warm dry pavement.
I think I will wire a little light to my fans, so if it doesn't go off in a few seconds, or when I am driving, I know to pull over. The fans must have been on while I was ripping at high speed, if I had noticed that, I would have stopped. Maybe a light for the oil pressure switch too.
Round 2
My cooling system has a reroute and water lines to my turbo, and factory heater core. That said, when filling the cooling system, I typically just unhook a hose from different sections, and fill them with coolant to get air out. I can top the radiator till it's full, but then disconnect the water lines from the turbo, and a big bubble of air is at the tops of the hoses. Same for heater core hoses. It's easy and helps get a lot of air out.
I do, the yellow bucket that attaches to the radiator right. You should see my driveway, it's like 40°, ripped off my stock lip the day I brought it home. I have always been able to burp it just fine AFAIK.
Here's the carnage, I need to see if I can get a nice straight edge locally.
The image of the cheap head gasket logo burned into the block. Not too bad, overall.
Hard to guess based on a couple of pictures but tune, head and deck flat, and head torque are main things. I'd have to look up the post but bbundy discussed how you don't need so much torque with the ARP head studs since the aluminum cylinder head bosses are softer and will cave sooner than the head studs will. The threads are finer so even with the same torque value the ARPs are 'tighter' than stock. IIRC he recommended using less than the ARP spec so you should be good there. In addition to using a Mazda HG you can also recheck the torque a few times after running the engine 1, 5, 10 hours or something like that to make sure any slack from heating & cooling is taken up. If your head and deck have been resurfaced then you might consider doing some calculations for the squish distance and optimal HG thickness with your pistons - but ahh I think you're pretty much good with a stock Mazda HG either way.
It probably works fine 9/10 times, but I still don't like those odds. JUst my .02
Yeah, of course. I had done a search a few days ago to see what was recommended for headgaskets and it came up time and time again on here that felpro gaskets were equivalent to OEM. That's why I'd asked.
09-15-2017, 10:11 AM
0
