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I like those crimps. Source? They are nicer for splicing wires than the butt crimps.
Eastern Beaver and Cycle Terminal sell those open barrel splices in small quantities. Search for "TE open barrel crimp splice" on Newark to get larger quantities of nice ones.
I love them for making harnesses since they're so low profile, and they're used in OEM stuff.
The front harness is coming along. I now need to route the harness along the front of the car - cut some holes so I can route it nicely from the passenger light to the fender.
Weight of what you see in the pictures is 1.27kg or 2.8lbs
Current bundle diameter is 12.5mm or right about 1/2"
Today I test-fit the harness to the chassis. I was going to run it outside of the of the engine bay. However, the wire bundle is so small (0.5") and the connectors are so big (some are 1.5") that I would need a very oddly shaped grommet to run the harness through the engine bay.
So instead I decided to keep it tucked in the engine bay. It is thin enough that you can't see it anyways.
Looks awesome. My wiring by the ECU is so embarassing I wont even post pictures. I'm going to try and get a bulkhead connector at some point. And maybe clean it up a little when the engine comes out.
Why are the wires twisted/braided like that? I have never seen that before. Can you provide some information on the technique and why it's being used? It looks awesome, I am merely unfamiliar.
Btw, I have one of the 22pos weatherpack bulkhead connectors but I haven't installed it yet. I am not sure if that's the direction I want to go.
Why are the wires twisted/braided like that? I have never seen that before. Can you provide some information on the technique and why it's being used? It looks awesome, I am merely unfamiliar.
In short, it keeps the harness flexible (really flexible) and also keeps the overall diameter of the bundle to the minimum. Also looks cool. I wanted to try it and I like it. Its actually pretty easy to find wires in the bundle cause you know how they are layered. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html#twisting
That is incredible. Thank you for sharing. As a former avionics tech this is like **** to me. I have repaired stuff and I think my stuff was solid but when it comes to laying out and planning it's all new to me. I now have something to aspire to.
Originally Posted by soviet
In short, it keeps the harness flexible (really flexible) and also keeps the overall diameter of the bundle to the minimum. Also looks cool. I wanted to try it and I like it. Its actually pretty easy to find wires in the bundle cause you know how they are layered. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html#twisting
Are you reusing stock wires? Or did you buy new TXL wire?
Mostly old stock wires cause they are already attached to the correct connectors and have pretty colors.
I could have probably tracked down chassis connectors and used all-new wires. But that would have added a huge amount of overhead to this already overboard "I'll just change 2 wires... and now I'm making a harness from scratch" project
I've got a few crimpers and only one of them I'd consider almost-good so after seeing this I bought the above crimper and the additional S-SIZE:0.7-2.2 die so it will cover anything I need to do electrically (crimper comes with 2.5-3.7mm die). It's definitely a quality crimper and I wish I'd known of it years ago (and just how good a decent crimper is when you have a lot of wiring work to do).
It's bloody annoying "effing-up" a pin crimp when you're wiring up aftermarket sensors that don't come with any spare pins - having the right-sized crimper minimises this.
Why are the wires twisted/braided like that? I have never seen that before. Can you provide some information on the technique and why it's being used? It looks awesome, I am merely unfamiliar.
Btw, I have one of the 22pos weatherpack bulkhead connectors but I haven't installed it yet. I am not sure if that's the direction I want to go.
This technique works well. I often find a small hook or something to chuck in the drill, rather than the wires themselves. Obviously, use slow speed on the drill. No special tools required
This wiring inspires me! My interior has been a collection of all the wires in the entire car for a while now. Since i am not running AC, i am routing the engine wires back through the firewall hole that previously housed the AC hardline, while my headlight/ front of car connectors are routing on the inside of the fender, with a hole drilled back through just before the headlights on both sides. Will make for a super clean path/ routing. I need to clean mine up a lot tho in comparison to what you have here.
I had to add wires for windshield motor. I realized that once I got near the firewall. Then I also realized that the fuel pressure sensor sits on the firewall.
So I added 6 more wires for future sensors on the firewall. Altogether that added 10 more wires which made life difficult. But I figured it out and here's the almost-finished result
You can't really see the harness when looking normally
But there it is (I slacked it a bit after this picture)
And inside the interior compartment it looks like this
This wiring inspires me! My interior has been a collection of all the wires in the entire car for a while now. Since i am not running AC, i am routing the engine wires back through the firewall hole that previously housed the AC hardline, while my headlight/ front of car connectors are routing on the inside of the fender, with a hole drilled back through just before the headlights on both sides. Will make for a super clean path/ routing. I need to clean mine up a lot tho in comparison to what you have here.
I decided against drilling holes and routing wires outside of the engine bay.
Because whatever holes you make in the chassis, it will have to big enough to pull through all the connectors. If you ever want to remove the harness, that is.
For me the size of the connectors was easily 3 times the size of the wire bundle. So the hole that could accommodate all the connectors would be too big for the wire bundle.
I decided against drilling holes and routing wires outside of the engine bay.
Because whatever holes you make in the chassis, it will have to big enough to pull through all the connectors. If you ever want to remove the harness, that is.
For me the size of the connectors was easily 3 times the size of the wire bundle. So the hole that could accommodate all the connectors would be too big for the wire bundle.
Totally understandable, ultimately there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. I used a 2" hole saw to cut the holes both from the cabin to the exterior, then back into the engine bay as shown below. I dont currently have a better pic besides this one to show. I will use a rubber grommet to seal the hole hopefully something similar to the one going through the firewall.
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