Do the Cam/Crank sensors really need their own power, or can they piggyback off each other with one fusable link?

I.e. if one goes bad, fuse pops.


How are these systems configured stock? i know they have +/-/signal but i didnt know cam and crank had their own fuses for the power source... from memory that is.

 

Stock wiring, both cam and crank sensors (if present, depending on year) get power from Main Relay, along with virtually everything else in the car. Very little circuits are fused.

I just like to keep the sensors on a separate circuit - separate grounds, separate power. The separate fuse is probably overkill but hey, I do what I want.

 

I thought the main relay switched them on, then a secondary relay did? There was certainly a whole second harness in the engine bay of "sensor power". Maybe it's a late model year thing, but when rewiring my own car I seem to remember trying to figure out (and re-partitioning) which was which - i.e. getting the solenoids such as VICS and VVT (yeah, I know) on seperate sources.

 

Nope, I just looked at 2003 wiring diagram and errythang still comes from main relay.

Main relay is 80A, btw. My relays are only 35A each.

 

Mouting.

I already had removed the 'box' part of glovebox - leaving a gaping hole in there. I then took a piece of $5 12x18" 26ga plated steel and bent it to cover the glove box hole. I then mounted MS3 in there and now the fuse box.

 

Car is almost wired but I've been slacking/busy driving to and from DC every weekend (kill me...)

In other news, I found a BALLER OEM fuse box on ebay for a steal. Unfortunately, buying all the connectors and terminals got complicated.

I won't be installing it until winter, probably, but it sure is awesome.



With minimums on a lot of things, I bought enough parts to wire 4 fuse boxes and I'm selling 3 of them here - DIY 13-relay Fusebox with all terminals, connectors, etc - Miata Turbo Forum - Turbo Kitten is watching you test compression.

 

Where was this 2 years ago... Jelly.

 

lol
yeah I'm pretty pumped about this thing.

 

I don't see why you couldn't... But while they do fail fairly often, then never "Take anything with them". They hardly need a fuse beyond the off chance a wire would get caught on something. I'm pretty sure he's doing it for noise - which seems laughable, but I'll argue when I'm the one making 3x the power he is. :-) It does seem a pretty huge waste though, especially with the new pick up chips in the MS3Pro, those things are pretty bulletproof. I'm curious if you see a difference.

You're still running the OEM 4 spoke wheel? I've got one of those Mazda 24 (or was it 36?) tooth wheels which I'm hot to put on but don't want to deal with more "it SHOULD work" MS stuff.

 

I have a 36-1 Protege wheel and apparently I'm running a VR crank sensor from 96-97 and not a Hall sensor from 99+

 

Yeah - that's the one I was talking about.

You don't have VVT do you? That's why I'm still holding off, I'm not sure it'd work terribly well.

Oh, a real VR sensor, you don't even need power then, right? Both leads go to ecu... done.

 

Do you run a single tooth cam sensor on the pulley or modified CAS? Care to post a screenshot of your trigger settings? Or .msq.

Also, come rewire my car. And our enduro car. It's a mess.

 

I have a modified magnetic CAS. I cut all the teeth inside but one. I'll post an MSQ later.
Buy me an airplane ticket and I'll wire your call all night long, baby.

Yeah with VVT + 36-1T wheel your only 2 options right now are to grind the 2 teeth off the intake cam or convince the megasquirt guys to write custom decoder for it. The CAM singnal *must* come from the VVT cam.

I thought I could write the decoder part myself, but the source code is so god awful that I'd rather not.

 

DOPE, thanks for posting about the fusebox. Now I have found the CAN version they have and will do two of those!

 

+1.

I've written my own idle code and some other bits, and it was hell. Also, every release, EVERYTHING changes, so you can't stay up to date and slip your old code back in. Too bad, though, since most of the work is already done if they can do single tooth.

 

thats so baller. too bad on the price. maybe i can find some OEM manufacturer who used these, hmmmmmmmmmmm

 

Thanks.
Don't tempt me


I punched out the 2 dowel pins from the adjustable cam gear on our 99 race engine. In a 01 chassis. That we're trying to get to run on 36-1 and 1 tooth cam trigger.

 

Bled the brakes yesterday and drove the car around the block. Tonight I'm going to wire the gauge cluster (currently no tacho, oil pressure, brake light or coolant gauge) and fan.

Reminded me that this car does 60-120 in 9 seconds....

 

60-120 in 9 seconds in 5th

 

HFS, did you see who replied to your video? Fae fae is watching us. >.>