In Soviet Russia car build YOU!
#21
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Only Mr Sawzall himself could fit an IAT sensor and it not be in the airstream.
I mean apart from leaving it lying in the engine bay somewhere how would it be possible!
FWIW from talking to a respected n/a engine builder, the air heats up tremendously as it slams into the back of closed valves and has to suddenly change direction.
BUT I don't personally see how a plenum mounted IAT can improve anything, it's not like our engines die left right and centre due to improperly mounted intake sensors ;)
I mean apart from leaving it lying in the engine bay somewhere how would it be possible!
FWIW from talking to a respected n/a engine builder, the air heats up tremendously as it slams into the back of closed valves and has to suddenly change direction.
BUT I don't personally see how a plenum mounted IAT can improve anything, it's not like our engines die left right and centre due to improperly mounted intake sensors ;)
The default BEGI AIT mounting method is to put the sensor in a brass cylinder, where the bulb is not in the airstream.
#22
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I'll admit in my 1st iteration of my supercharger setup I screwed my IAT sensor into a Dummy Throttle body.
As the threads were different, it only went partway in, that ****** heatsoaked like a bitch and never actually reported true air temp. Only the temp of the alui casting. It lasted a day in that setup.
#24
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the real problem is, if the bung is between the TB and IACV port, it's not getting airflow. but even at idle, it's really not flowing enough to really register correct temps, and the pipes themselves are heatsoaked from being in the bay, being behind the radiator.
#25
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The sender sticks out beyond the bung...
the real problem is, if the bung is between the TB and IACV port, it's not getting airflow. but even at idle, it's really not flowing enough to really register correct temps, and the pipes themselves are heatsoaked from being in the bay, being behind the radiator.
the real problem is, if the bung is between the TB and IACV port, it's not getting airflow. but even at idle, it's really not flowing enough to really register correct temps, and the pipes themselves are heatsoaked from being in the bay, being behind the radiator.
I think you are talking about the NA intake mani and I don't know anything about that.
#26
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I'm installing everything on friday night after work. Initially I'll run whatever stock wastegate will do (6-7psi?). Then once EBC is working (or, possibly MBC if I can't figure it out) it's whatever that poor turbo can do. Air filter arrived. It's supposed to be an Amsoil filter but it's branded Injen. Dunno. It's 3" inlet and I was able to tighten it on my 2.75" BEGI inlet pipe. Life's good.
Only thing I'm missing is an M10x1.5 to -3AN fitting for oil feed, but it should arrive on Thursday. If not, I have a long-*** oil feed line/fittings to go from the oil sender.
ok so here are some pictures!
Harness. The seats are fake Bride seats with about 10k miles. Rollbar is a *deep breath* Hard Dog M1 Hard Top Hardcore double diagonal.
Bought an 9/16 drill bit (****'s expensive) and tapped the IC. Temperature sensor not quite super directly in air stream but me no care.
Trimmed IC bracket. I didn't clean it up because **** it. Will make it look nice later.
Complete intercooler piping with my ghetto radiator hoses. Cold-side to BOV is actually an old miata radiator hose (forget which one). I think it'll be ok for 3 weeks. I'll probably need to trim it because I never test-fitted it.
Boost gauge. Cheapest Vacuum/Boost gauge that looked decent. Lighting maches miata gauges pretty nicely. Had to order a $2.50 barbed fitting from McMaster to make it work.
It's a VDO 150-121 and the fitting is McMaster part 44555K123
Only thing I'm missing is an M10x1.5 to -3AN fitting for oil feed, but it should arrive on Thursday. If not, I have a long-*** oil feed line/fittings to go from the oil sender.
ok so here are some pictures!
Harness. The seats are fake Bride seats with about 10k miles. Rollbar is a *deep breath* Hard Dog M1 Hard Top Hardcore double diagonal.
Bought an 9/16 drill bit (****'s expensive) and tapped the IC. Temperature sensor not quite super directly in air stream but me no care.
Trimmed IC bracket. I didn't clean it up because **** it. Will make it look nice later.
Complete intercooler piping with my ghetto radiator hoses. Cold-side to BOV is actually an old miata radiator hose (forget which one). I think it'll be ok for 3 weeks. I'll probably need to trim it because I never test-fitted it.
Boost gauge. Cheapest Vacuum/Boost gauge that looked decent. Lighting maches miata gauges pretty nicely. Had to order a $2.50 barbed fitting from McMaster to make it work.
It's a VDO 150-121 and the fitting is McMaster part 44555K123
#27
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Today I rescaled all my maps up to 200kpa. Please let me know if anything is wrong with them.
Timing > 100kpa is from DIYPNP base map
Fuel > 100kpa is also from DIYPNP base map but scaled to match my N/A map
AFR > 100kpa is from a map thirdgen posted in Good AFR target table?. I'll adjust it anyways so it doesn't matter as much.
Turbo goes on tomorrow! Wish me luck!!
Timing > 100kpa is from DIYPNP base map
Fuel > 100kpa is also from DIYPNP base map but scaled to match my N/A map
AFR > 100kpa is from a map thirdgen posted in Good AFR target table?. I'll adjust it anyways so it doesn't matter as much.
Turbo goes on tomorrow! Wish me luck!!
#28
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Also if anyone is interested, I wrote a small tool to rescale maps. Basically you export your old map, then change axes to whatever new values you want. Then run the tool and it produces a new map using the old values but new axes. Uses billinear interpolation so beats doing it by hand!!
Currently it's limited to maps of same size (e.g. from 12x12 to 12x12) but it's easy to change, if anyone wants. So map size can be changed, e.g. going from 12x12 maps to 16x16 maps when upgrading to MS3.
The tool - http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo...MapRescale.exe
Example
Source NA map, autotuned.
Desired Axes. I zero-ed out all the data for demonstration purposes. Only axes matter here
Running the tool
Resulting map
Currently it's limited to maps of same size (e.g. from 12x12 to 12x12) but it's easy to change, if anyone wants. So map size can be changed, e.g. going from 12x12 maps to 16x16 maps when upgrading to MS3.
The tool - http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo...MapRescale.exe
Example
Source NA map, autotuned.
Desired Axes. I zero-ed out all the data for demonstration purposes. Only axes matter here
Running the tool
Resulting map
Last edited by soviet; 11-11-2011 at 02:42 AM.
#31
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Well, car is turboed I put on about 150 street miles on it this weekend and nothing fell off. Although, the cat now hits the transmission tunnel and makes epic noises. I'll fix it tomorrow. Also ordered a 2.5" straight pipe because I want to shoot fireballs.
Wastegate is spot-on 7psi which arrives before 3k. I'm happy. Pictures tomorrow! Fuel map is also extremely rich but doesn't bog - which is perfect for VE Analyze. Picked up an ACT 6-puck from Faeflora which I might install this week. MBC should have arrived, if not, it'll be here tomorrow. So 12 psi here I come
Wastegate is spot-on 7psi which arrives before 3k. I'm happy. Pictures tomorrow! Fuel map is also extremely rich but doesn't bog - which is perfect for VE Analyze. Picked up an ACT 6-puck from Faeflora which I might install this week. MBC should have arrived, if not, it'll be here tomorrow. So 12 psi here I come
#33
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This is a 4th gear pull about 10 minutes after I finished putting the turbo on. So nevermind AFRs that drop to below what my sensor can read (i.e. less than 10:1).
7psi @ 2700 rpm and 31F intake temps. I'm not sure why boost drops to 6psi after (MBC will fix that maybe?) but it goes back up to 7psi after 5k rpm.
7psi @ 2700 rpm and 31F intake temps. I'm not sure why boost drops to 6psi after (MBC will fix that maybe?) but it goes back up to 7psi after 5k rpm.
#34
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Car's done for the year, and the chassis is done forever. It had a happy life but right now it's parked & done. It will be reborn on a new chassis in spring
Today was the last autocross of the season. I was supposed to attend but overslept by only 5 hours. I showed up anyways and had a buddy drive my car (first time ever after turbo). It was set to 11-10psi and it came at about 3k rpm.
Here's a vid of the first run:
My RS3s are down to cords and have no grip. Brakes are **** because apparently I didn't break them in perfect. Rear shocks will also need to be replace as they are shot (under w warranty though).
I'm happy
Today was the last autocross of the season. I was supposed to attend but overslept by only 5 hours. I showed up anyways and had a buddy drive my car (first time ever after turbo). It was set to 11-10psi and it came at about 3k rpm.
Here's a vid of the first run:
My RS3s are down to cords and have no grip. Brakes are **** because apparently I didn't break them in perfect. Rear shocks will also need to be replace as they are shot (under w warranty though).
I'm happy
#39
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Reviving this thread for upcoming glory.
Next week I'm moving into my new house which has a garage. So that means I get to work on my car(s)!
Last week went to a junk yard in search of a Torsen. Didn't find one, but got myself a timing wheel off a 1.6 Protege (was 99 I think) and a crank position sensor. I plan on building and running MS3 with this cam + modified CAS. The timing wheel and crank sensor should both bolt on. Should be glorious.
Then, it turned out a buddy of mine had a 4.3 Torsen lying around with a broken housing. I picked it up for some alcohol and money. I figure 4.3 + 5 speed will be sexy. When I get a 6-speed I'll change the diff (or at least the r&p).
Next week I'm moving into my new house which has a garage. So that means I get to work on my car(s)!
Last week went to a junk yard in search of a Torsen. Didn't find one, but got myself a timing wheel off a 1.6 Protege (was 99 I think) and a crank position sensor. I plan on building and running MS3 with this cam + modified CAS. The timing wheel and crank sensor should both bolt on. Should be glorious.
Then, it turned out a buddy of mine had a 4.3 Torsen lying around with a broken housing. I picked it up for some alcohol and money. I figure 4.3 + 5 speed will be sexy. When I get a 6-speed I'll change the diff (or at least the r&p).