In Soviet Russia car build YOU!
#1002
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Well, I reassembled everything because it looked good. And then found my leak.
The top barb on the oil cooler is leaking. I'm going to try to tighten the hose clamp (could be the hose) but most likely it's the cooler itself. weaksauce, time to take it all apart again.
The top barb on the oil cooler is leaking. I'm going to try to tighten the hose clamp (could be the hose) but most likely it's the cooler itself. weaksauce, time to take it all apart again.
#1006
Hey, I didnt see one when I looked, do you have a log oh being off throttle above 4k rpm then flooring it with tps and boost graphed at the same time? If you have one from the 6258 and the 6758 setup that would be super killer, but either one would be fine. I want to see what the transient response on the EFR looks like. Basically right now I'm looking at the airflow requirements for the torque curve I want, looking at the compressor maps from the 62 and the 67 and trying to see if that tiny extra bit of inertia from the 67mm wheel is worth it.
#1007
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Hey, I didnt see one when I looked, do you have a log oh being off throttle above 4k rpm then flooring it with tps and boost graphed at the same time? If you have one from the 6258 and the 6758 setup that would be super killer, but either one would be fine. I want to see what the transient response on the EFR looks like. Basically right now I'm looking at the airflow requirements for the torque curve I want, looking at the compressor maps from the 62 and the 67 and trying to see if that tiny extra bit of inertia from the 67mm wheel is worth it.
transient response on 6258 looked like this
4th gear
that was with open loop EBC. with closed loop, 6758 spools like 6258. theres no denying the smaller compressor wheel spools faster. to me its negligible. for autox, maybe it matters...
#1009
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I feel like I should post here with some update but I've got nothing.
Been dirving the car to work and around DC, it's my primary car right now. Starts up great in "DC winter", which is barely freezing, but way better than my old MS2 used to be like.
Star Specs are very enjoyable in this weather, much much much better than RS3s were last year. The only 2 issues I have are - battery drains completely if I leave it sitting for ~2 weeks and there is a whistling wind noise above 85mph (probably from the dented fender...?)
Oh and I get piston slap when it's warming up now. It's quite evident but I didn't get it in warmer weather. 0.040" piston-to-wall brah....
Been dirving the car to work and around DC, it's my primary car right now. Starts up great in "DC winter", which is barely freezing, but way better than my old MS2 used to be like.
Star Specs are very enjoyable in this weather, much much much better than RS3s were last year. The only 2 issues I have are - battery drains completely if I leave it sitting for ~2 weeks and there is a whistling wind noise above 85mph (probably from the dented fender...?)
Oh and I get piston slap when it's warming up now. It's quite evident but I didn't get it in warmer weather. 0.040" piston-to-wall brah....
#1010
I find that these batteries tend to fail in that way, especially if left dead for a short time.
I think an update saying everything is fine is good. A lot of these build threads go from catastrophe to catastrophe, or they just
......
trail off. The last post is like, "no your homo no homomo, waiting on hose clamp can't wait for my friends friends friend to tune this, he does DSM"
I think an update saying everything is fine is good. A lot of these build threads go from catastrophe to catastrophe, or they just
......
trail off. The last post is like, "no your homo no homomo, waiting on hose clamp can't wait for my friends friends friend to tune this, he does DSM"
#1015
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yeah, that one. made it to 6700m, 250m below the summit. could have summited but was late on time. we should have started the summit attempt earlier.... still, no regrets!
not me and eh r&p is a pretty shitty investment, imo. I'd rather buy a set of hoosiers or pay for an HPDE
#1016
3.63 on the 6 speed? I put that set up in my car with no tune and terrible oversized china turbo and I still love it. But I would love it more with torque on tap at 3,200 rpm.
Which brings us back to the two turbos - how are things right there - 3-4k, do you see a big difference? And, since I'm like 4 million posts behind in this thread, what are the peak numbers/dynos like - i.e. what's the gain from the bigger turbo? I'd originally selected this for my car but once I saw how well you were doing with the smaller turbo I thought perhaps I shouldn't get greedy.....
Which brings us back to the two turbos - how are things right there - 3-4k, do you see a big difference? And, since I'm like 4 million posts behind in this thread, what are the peak numbers/dynos like - i.e. what's the gain from the bigger turbo? I'd originally selected this for my car but once I saw how well you were doing with the smaller turbo I thought perhaps I shouldn't get greedy.....
#1019
You might have enough length on that nipple under the rubber hose to flare and put an AN fitting directly on it. Like a male to male fitting. Would require you getting a 37* flare tool. if you didnt already have one. Or if they make a compression fitting in that size that goes directly to AN that would be an option too.