Changed the fuel filter. Didn't fix it, fuel pressure still drops under boost. Going to go over the fuel lines to make sure they are all tight - if that doesn't fix it, I guess I'll get the pump replaced (warranty hoooo).

This wasn't happening a week ago when I was running 5 psi less.

 

Because of butt-hurting reply, AF setup is gone and EFR on it's way. Thanks!

What FP are you running again?

 

Have you tried applying pressure to the reference port on the fuel pump to make sure pressure is rising rate? Doesn't seem so likely, since you do initially get a pressure rise - it looks from the logs. Maybe even the hose going to it is leaking? How much was pressure sensor?

Hmmmm, you never got alternator? Do you know the Amp rating on the stocker? My poor stereo kinda takes a lot out of the charge - any time I go down the road for a long drive at night with radio blasting upwards of 700 watts (rated 1200 RMS but I don't think I use it), heater (and associated fan) on full, cheap inefficient HIDs headlights going and rear window defroster.... yeah, sometimes I think I put a dent in the battery.

 

Did you double check power supply to the fuel pump, you're not getting voltage drop during a pull or something weird like that are you?

 

want a vortec fmu?

 

Lol, Borg Warner should send me money for all the sales I got them.
I'm running a Fuelab 545, good ****.

Pressure sensor was $25 shipped with pigtail - they are now $28 (gasp!) Pressure Transducer or Sender 100 PSI for Oil Fuel Air | eBay

Fuel regulator is tee-ed off the same vacuum line I use for ECU and boost gauge - its how it has always been. Pressure is great (55psi across the injectors) until about 4500-4800 rpm, after which it drops like 20psi. Nothing seems to be leaking.

Stocker is 60A apparently. I went to a junkyard on Saturday - got a sunburn and a mint 90A Mazda Millenia alternator. It appears to be physically same as 626 alternator, just with a different connector. I got the pigtail, too, so I'll install it eventually. Weight difference -vs- stock 1.6 alt I have lying around - 11lbs vs 14lbs. So 3lbs gain, no big deal.

Voltage stays solid at exactly 13.0V to redline. Maybe the pump contacts are corroded or something, I haven't checked that - but seems unlikely.

I really doubt its the regulator. How complex can a spring with a diaphragm be?

 

Yeah - voltage drop to the fuel pump is something worth checking out. My biggie pump has definitely let me know its there electrically. Not overwhelming but I just got the sense there were a few less watts to go around. Checking contacts and relay and grounds and such couldn't hurt - or just put a volt/amp meter on the line - perhaps you could check it with the MS and log it. Should have plenty of extra pins. :-)

Then why get such a fancy one?

Thanks for the link on the FP sender. 13 volts isn't crazy high but it should be enough.

 

100% E85 compatibility, high adjustment range, compact size, 1/8NPT gauge/sensor port, track-tested.

 

There's dfinatly no harm in feeding the fuel pump with a fresh dedicated 12v supply.

A guy in the UK did his and tested the results, it's on Web Hosting, Reseller Hosting & Domain Names from Heart Internet if the site still exists.

 

Well, at least something works. Kind of.

 

you forgot to hide the gay **** folder

 

You forgot your аnal virginity at my house.

 

What?! I thought MSDroid didn't support MS3. Here I stopped paying attention. Where'd you get this fancy cable?

 

Total cost from amazon was $27 for all things I need to make it work (and to hit the $25 free shipping)





Rooted the Nexus 7
Installed the USB ROM for Nexus 7 (took forever)
Installed msDroid
Copied over my *.ini file to /msdroid/ini
Used the MS3 native USB cable (NOT the serial adapter) plugged into USB hub plugged into OTG cable. Also charging at the same time via the Y cable.

msDroid is still in its infancy but already 100000 times better than ShadowDash - because I don't need to use bullshit Bluetooth.

Fixed installation coming soon..... like in 2014

 

hmmm, perhaps the S3 wouldn't be as friendly. If you have a hub, doesn't that do the charging already? Guess its for the other gender thing. I'll probably hack off the cable coming out of the MS and just put a female end on it, Y'd off for the PC with a male end. Time will tell. Us pig heavy 2475 lb NB's can't drag around an extra hub like you can.

 

no, the hub is not powered.
powered hubs are all 5V so whats the point? I would need a voltage converter or again to use the car charger. I plan on adding a usb DAC for audio system eventually.

Splicing USB cables sucks because they all use like hair-thin 28ga wires

 

You need OTG support so you need to find out if S3 has a mod that supports it. I plan on eventually doing a fixed install in the dash, so Nexus 7 works perfectly and its wel supported (many people did the same thing)

 

What is funny is I just got MSDash up and running on my Samsung Galaxy Nexus in the past few days. The fact that I can go over USB and not use bluetooth is amazing. Why are you using the USB hub?

I also did not have to install any .ini files on my phone. It automatically pulled in the correct one and started working on the first time I plugged it in.

 

Wow, so the wired is a huge advantage over the bluetooth? I have been considering not getting a wideband or boost gauge and just using shadowdash or MSDash as my gauges on my Nexus 4, so I guess I will have to look into running it wired like that.

 

I always had all sort of bluetooth connection problems between my Galaxy Nexus and MS3. It would sync up the first time, but if I turned off the car and came back a bit later and tried again In would always have issues. With the wired connection it has started up and connected fine the few times I have tried it so far. Also if I have to switch to my laptop for tuning I just unplug my phone and plug in my laptop, not need to unhook the bluetooth module from the MS.