Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The lines are just a visual representation of the air paths, and the color code represents velocity at max flow possible with the pressure differential I'm expecting (which is based entirely off of numbers I pulled from my ***). Its really just a pretty picture, and in real life will never hopefully hit those velocities. Since that kind of mass flow means you have a hole in a piston or two, which would be bad. I didnt feel like clamping the mass flow and/or dont exactly know how. Yay pretty pictures.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Each line is one air.

There are many airs in there.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Lol. Much Air Very Flow, Wow such Doge.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Any reason you're going this route over VTA? Simply to pull Vacuum and draw vapors out (instead of a slash cut)?

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. I want to pull vacuum, just because. If it makes a mess of the intake, no big deal. I get CRC brake cleaner for 69 cents a can. Three things stopped me from going exhaust slashcut; grinding off the swaintech so I can weld to the downpipe will suck a lot, fitting a -10AN hose that far down the trans tunnel without it touching the exhaust will be almost impossible, and if I ever want to run the car in XP for like a 3rd driver or something it wouldnt be legal.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

what would happen if you swiss cheesed the tube sticking into the bottom and made it a little longer? i think it would decrease the speed that the air is in the canister and allow more time for the solids to settle out.


Are you going to add provisions for a drainback into the crankcase like most OEM's do?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Might work. I'll probably need to cap the tube. It going to have a drain, mine wont be going back to the crank case. I also might end up making it vertical depending on how its packaging up. Which will make the drain work better. They're going to have to have their own sealed drain cans, having more than a coating of oil in the bottom is a no go.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Didnt feel like I accomplished much but it was a lot of important things. The car is sitting on the ground, going to do a bit of free dyno work saturday, working on the above 6500 rpm area of the tune mostly want to see 300hp. Might work on the spool area, no idea how much time I'm going to get. I replaced the intake manifold gasket, no change in the vac leak. Pulled the injectors couldnt figure out why they were leaking at first. Then I realized I bent the tips of all of them when I put them in at some point so they werent actually seating in. Filed the aluminum until they would actually seat, put them in, problem solved. Pulled off the mother ******* re-route hose because the mother ******* piece of mother **** **** was mother ******* still ******* leaking like a mother ******. Re-adjusted it, put the clamp in a slightly different spot and it doenst seem to be ******* leaking any more. I also fixed the fuel leak at the new fuel line connection finally. So now its only leaking oil. It seems to be leaking from the top VVT banjo bolt and from the oil cooler to block connection. I cant seem to fix the oil cooler leak, its got a brand new mazda seal, and torqued to spec. The vvt line just needs new crush washers, they're on like their 5th use at this point so I guess its just their time.

Got the hood mounted up with the aero catches. Clearing the intercooler pipe wasnt easy. And dealing with how cocked up the front end of the car is was even harder. Like ****, this thing was way more bent than I thought it was. Looks good in the end though.



Next week after the dyno I want to do the headlights, mount and wire the power steering pump and maybe get to the catch can, but I feel like thats going to be pushing my luck.

So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th
PS pressure line
plywood for splitter, cheap AL angle and channel from home deopt
Catch can

Things that need to happen
power steering wiring
design and make a new splitter
install new headlight setup
align car
pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones
mount power steering pump, and do hoses
make a working crank case vent setup
install correct sway bar blocks

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
cry
canards
make new and improved intake tube
hood prop
do the correct crank case vent setup

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

And on to the AOS, here's the open tube design with the tube made longer and the velocity scale changed.



And Shlammed suggestiong, same velocity color scale.



Whats interesting is the max mass flow rates hardly change between either of these. I cant tell which is better. The open tube makes the air turn more corners ~6 for the further inlet, compared to the ~4 for the holy tube. But the velocity is lower for holy tube, which may or maynot be a good thing for this design. Its definitely a good thing for normal baffled cans and for scrubble packed cans. But part of why this design supposedly works is that the inertial force on the oil throws it against the walls and it sticks to the walls, higher velocity = more inertial force. I'm going to try the open tube design unless I/we come up with something else.

jacob300zx

Reading your build thread and want to clarify this point in case others take your advice. Its wrong, flat out wrong. My buddies and I are all pretty similar in times in autox and track driving. Got bored one weekend and showed up to the local autox course with my S2000 with 255 RS3 stickers and proceeded to take out all of the fast guys on Saturday that were running there "practice Hoosiers". Hadn't been to an autox in probably 1.5 years when I did this and had TTOD when I left. We have proved time and again over the years that old Hoosiers are ******* junk, YMMV but its not accurate.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I still stand that the car is completely pointless to even attempt racing on the newish 225 RS3s, and still faster with mismatched 275 hoosiers half R's half A's, none with under 100 runs on it. Its not exactly easy to drive fast that was but its still faster than it would be on the streets. Maybe its this car but streets = tire smoke and drift clinic, old worn out slicks = slower than new slicks, much more punishing of over driving (EG, unsaveable), car still works just spends more time pointed backwards than normal. Maybe in a couple years I'll be able to afford to feed the car stickers, or maybe I'll just put the right people in the car for tours and not have to buy any. But as of right now putting stickers on it is stupid, it had 20-30 run hoosiers mounted on it once, took 2nd in pax (not me), fastest car with fenders (raw) by ~1.5 seconds, destroyed the outside edge of the fronts, because 90k mile 20 year old stock rubber bushings.

FrankL

Old worn out bushings killed our last set. I suspect they got exponentially worse near the end if the season last year, multiple Blytheville trips and Lincoln. All is well now in that department and stickers go on at Blytheville pro.

That said I've run old Hoosiers and car had top pax (either by me or Chris) for 17 of the last 22 local events and most of those FTD. But it is car specific and I suspect how the tires have been kept. Our tires are stored inside Chris's house. My c5z on old Hoosier tires I bought used at the beginning was slower than nt05s!

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully I wont have the worn bushings too much longer I need to save up the $1200 or so dollars its going to cost to get all the sphericals, bearing cups, and spacers that its going to take to make my control arms, and then there's a $100 or so dollars of chromoly tubing, a tube notcher, some aluminum plate and shaft collars for fixtures, and you know **** is expensive. Lol.

Please dont mind the rambling, I've been at work since 8am thursday.

FrankL

In SP best we can do is delrin. Best source I found for that was McMaster Carr.

jacob300zx

Frank is dead on about tire storage. If you want tires to last your keep them off cold/hot/cold/hot/cold/hot concrete and store them inside.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

**** this weekend. On one hand I'm getting like $500 in overtime for work, on the other hand I missed out on free dyno time.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th
PS pressure line
plywood for splitter

Things that need to happen
power steering wiring
design and make a new splitter
install new headlight setup
align car
pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones
power steering hoses
make a working crank case vent setup
install correct sway bar blocks

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
cry
canards
make new and improved intake tube
hood prop
do the correct crank case vent setup

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Got some good **** done.
Power steering is plumbed, like a boss, looks like a professional job. I filled it, made a mess (the volvo reservoir does NOT hold a whole quart, ****), and ran it for a little bit with some super ******* ghetto wiring that involved a plastic spoon. I wanted so badly to just turn the pump on and crank the wheel back and forth with power steering but I doubt that janky wiring would have taken that kind of load, it was getting a bit warm just idling. The harness is on order from volvo, lets hope they dont have to order it from sweden.





The hood's all cut up, headlight covers added, 1 headlight mocked up. I did just one side so I could figure out how to mount the catch can and where I could put the filter/intake stuff.









Also cutout the splitter. I had to compromise on the material and just went with what was the least warped and wasnt 1/4" or 3/4" so I have 3/8" PTS Fir.



So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th
"nothing"

Things that need to happen
power steering wiring
design and make a new splitter
install rest of new headlight setup
align car
pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones
make a working crank case vent setup
install correct sway bar blocks

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
canards
make new and improved intake tube
hood prop
do the correct crank case vent setup
Wire headlights

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Got some good **** done.
Power steering is plumbed, like a boss, looks like a professional job. I filled it, made a mess (the volvo reservoir does NOT hold a whole quart, ****), and ran it for a little bit with some super ******* ghetto wiring that involved a plastic spoon. I wanted so badly to just turn the pump on and crank the wheel back and forth with power steering but I doubt that janky wiring would have taken that kind of load, it was getting a bit warm just idling. The harness is on order from volvo, lets hope they dont have to order it from sweden.





The hood's all cut up, headlight covers added, 1 headlight mocked up. I did just one side so I could figure out how to mount the catch can and where I could put the filter/intake stuff.









Also cutout the splitter. I had to compromise on the material and just went with what was the least warped and wasnt 1/4" or 3/4" so I have 3/8" PTS Fir.



Oh and I started making the catch can. Forming that cone was a ----.

So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th
"nothing"

Things that need to happen
power steering wiring
design and make a new splitter
install rest of new headlight setup
align car
pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones
make a working crank case vent setup
install correct sway bar blocks

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
canards
make new and improved intake tube
hood prop
do the correct crank case vent setup
Wire headlights

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Apparently I never posted pictures of the power steering pump.