Is that still a stock drivers side seat?

 

Drivers side is a cut up kirkey economy, passengers side is stock. The drivers side will be going over there once I have money to buy a higher level kirkey for the drivers side.

 

Gotcha after looking at that picture it just looked opposite.

 

Oh wow, it does look that way, weird. The other thing holding the seat upgrade back is that I want to just bolt the passenger seat to the floor, but I dont want to do that until I either move the ecu out from behind the seat. And that wont happen until I change ECUs.

 

When it hits the street, let me know.

I just moved a little further south to Ayer so I'll be hitting the local Worcester cruise nights (once my POS is running).

_Zach

 

We have cruise nights? I know the subie guys do, but I try not to associate with other subaru owners.

 

Not miata specific but I do try and hit up the Thursday night shows in Lancaster since it's nice farm road driving from Ayer.

Hanging out with Subaru owners ... no thanks. Most of them seem to say things like "stage 2" when asked what is done to the car. If questioned, they stare blankly. Sadly, I've seen an increasing amount of VW owners migrating to miata platforms so I have a feeling driving a miata might be a shameful experience pretty soon (if it isn't already).

-Zach

 

Didn't do anything on the car this weekend. Got another 1/4 of the ceiling garage insulated with my dad, just another 1/4 to go. Started to make the new intake to the turbo, realized my aluminum elbow wasnt a tight enough radius, and ordered the proper tight radius silicone elbow for it.

Put the subie up in the air to diagnose the front end clunk, both front springs are broken. Damn first run RCE wagon springs, they're sending a whole new set. Yay.

 

Well this was a great weekend. Saturday at renegade I drop awful but Brian top scratch time in my car. Today I won the NER SSM class championship, drove a bunch better and was on stick tires because Billy's (ch_blank) car broke and he and Bob ran my car. All in all the SSM car didnt break and did 41 runs this weekend. Thats Forty One runs and it probably hit its 8500rpm rev limiter like 30 times, oh yeah this weekend took some hours off the engine's life. Yup, its apparently a reliable SSM car. The Davis car was broken because the can trigger wheel slipped so far that it was trying to fire the injectors after the intake valve closed. Shenker apparently had this problem as well and his is off by something like 132* or something. Mine had slipped 5* when I checked it a few weekends ago, and I need to check it again, weld that bitch in place, and then re-set the trigger angle in the AEM. The silly things you have to deal with when reving a miata engine over its normal redline. Not sure how we're going to end up fixing it on the CSP car since welding it isnt legal.

I also finally got a gopro, it came today. Will use it at the last auto-x of the year. So maybe my videos wont be as nausea inducing.

I need to weld that cam and I want to make the new intake since I have the parts for that.

 

Bored at work, ordered a Wally 400e85 and install kit from racetronix. Trying to get it in this weekend, paid for 3 day shipping. Still, at $190 this is going to be the cheapest 60 pounds I take off the car, thats like 3 dollars/pound.

 

So fuel pumps. Below you'll see left to right in terms of capacity the miata fuel pumps I have, the stock one, the 044 and the wally 400e85 aka the wally 465lph.



So while the 044 is awesome, its pickup sucks the donkey dick. Which is why there is a stock fitment wally sock on my wally. Now to fit the wally into the car. That electrical connector is a metricpak 280, not a problem to get, bmotorsports has them. I ordered the wally 255 90-97 miata install kit, there is a problem. The rubber isolator which goes on the bottom of the pump is not the same as the wally 255 or the stock pump.





So I kind of stopped there and I'm waiting for the connector to show up. I'm probably going to jam the wally isolator on the best I can and put it onto the stock bracket and add a couple hose clamps for better security, unless someone else has a better idea.

 

Its in. Its wicked quiet. It also makes my under dash FP wiring feel like its melting. I will be completely re-wiring that.

To make it fit I made some minor alterations to the wally 255 isolator.



Now that fits more or less.


The zip ties are for moral support, and should be fine in normal gas for quite some time.


And then I did some rust repair.

On the house.

 

Finally finished dicking around with the subaru. Strung it up to align it friday morning only to find out that it was already good, dammit. Got to work on the miata this long weekend, start at 11am, finish at dinner time. Just super casual.





:(










To be fair, all day sunday was spent getting the ******* control arms and spindles separated.

 

And the first coat of paint.

 

Well update a bit. All the trailer wiring arrived at my house, I'm going to be testing out the solder sleeves in the trailer to see if I want to start using them for the racecar if I have to make splices.

Tools for drilling the block are on the way.

I'm tapped out on money until January. So I'm pretty much going to install the NB subframe, get the power steering in minus the pump, and install the ABS. Before putting all that back together I'm going to be measuring all the suspension to make new control arms with sphericals.

To the control arms. I want to be able to adjust all the settings without effecting the other settings. Front camber is going to be adjusted on the outer end of the lower arm. **** caster though, putting that as an independent adjustment without making custom uprights is impossible to do reasonably. And how often am I going to adjust caster anyways? I'll just use the stock bolts. The rear, camber adjustment is going on the outer end of the upper arm. Toe in the rear is going to have a toe link built into the lower H arm. I'm going to design all the arms. But something is telling me that just designing spherical inserts for the rear upper and modifying it for the camber adjustment might be a better idea.

I'm trying to figure out balljoints. I would prefer to use actual ball joints rather than sphericals with a through bolt and taper adapter. The upper V8R uppper BJ seems like the easy button, but I want a stronger lower than stock.

Collecting Links
spherical

matching weld cup

 

Linked to the wrong bearings, here are the correct ones. PWB-TG & PWB-T Series Spherical Bearings - Ptfe Lined On Aurora Bearing Co.

Also, currently, just sizing them to be big enough for the bolts and to have the spacer sleeves work correctly is making them majorly overkill. Yay, less actually engineering to do. And I'm going to be getting custom weld cups made, because the off the shelf ones dont make it easy to attach large tubes to them.

 

Slow progress is being made. The suspension is ready to get put back into the car. And its time to add the ABS and those brake lines and things. Engine work is halted because money's run out for this month so thats put off till January. I'm still struggling along with the control arms. I cant figure out how any of the aftermarket tubulars dont break. Or at least I cant figure out how the front lowers dont break.

 

Locally someone with a V8 Miata broke an tubular LCA (I think it was a V8 roadster's) on 225 RS3s, so it does happen. I heard something that it was a bad batch, though.

 

I basically started my design by copying the "bubba" LCA from V8R, they were breaking under 3g bump if the car was on the bump stop then experience the 3g bump, mine weight just about the same but arent breaking until almost a 5g bump. I'd like the arms to be able to have atleast a safety factor of 1.5 while simultaneously cornering at 2g, braking at 3g, and hitting a 5g bump but I dont think I can pull that off and still save weight over stock.

 

So you are going to be cornering at the peak load, braking at the peak load at the same time, AND hitting a bump? All on the same set of hoosiers?