Leafy

iTrader: (1)

No, obviously. But that situation is pretty standard when designing racecar suspension parts in FEA. With each load individually I'd like a safety factor of 2.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Wait...what....your car is going to pull 3g's in braking?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yours doesnt? Thats why I only used 2g, which is still like 0.8g more than I've seen on a data log, hopefully that will improve with the 01+ abs. I'm actually not worried about them breaking in braking anyways. Bump has been my biggest issue in the model.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Uhhh no. I don't think there is a single car in solo pulling 3G's in braking.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Sarcasometer malfunction. FSAE would theoretically be the closest though.

FrankL

ABS isn't going to give you more peak braking Gs IMO.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

1.2g was what I was sustaining. I normally ignore the peak numbers that happen for a split second in the logs.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about the crank case venting at the gym today. Heres the new idea, since I really dont highway drive the car anyways, I'm nixing the pcv entirely.

Drill out the valve cover for 1/2" npt and drill the passage in the cover, block the pcv port, drill and tap the block above the BP. I'm not going to drill in the factory BPT location because it makes swapping the alternator a bitch.

Then custom order a can from here With 2 -10 inputs and 2 -10 outputs sized to fit in the cowel with all the ports on the side facing the engine bay, the site tube and the drain on the drivers side of the can and locate it just above where the downpipe goes down. Run both spots on the block to the can, run one output to a slashcut in the intake tube, and the other to a slash cut in the exhaust. Check valves on both outputs. This should be sufficient. If its not, its still going to be better than last year and next winter I'll yank the engine again and drill the bottom port and basically set the system up like Bundy.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

just weld -10 fittings to the cover and then drill it out after.

tapped fittings have no place on a valve cover.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it is a bit thin isnt it. I wanted to put a 90* fitting straight onto the valve cover to keep the line running tight to the cover because in the routing I see in my head I'm running my lines right along the valve cover.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

yeah, definatly weld them.


Drill the hole after too if you can... its a trick I use. keeps it easy to weld being that you don't bring oil through the cover and the aluminum doesn't melt away faster than you feed rod in. more arc stability since aluminum heats up fast.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I found the spot for the chassis. I figure I have to pull all the wiring along the sides up to do the fuel pump wiring and to move my ecu under the dash so its not going to be any more work. Here's the pictures that dont exist on the internet for posterity.



















And my cut and spliced bracket. I ended up cutting both brackets to make it work and I had to hammer the fuse box bracket a bit so I could fit the ratchet in to the bolt on the abs pump. I welded the two together because the fuse box bracket was really floppy once it was cut up.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

That looks bad.



That looks worse.



I was replacing the brass nipple that I knew was going to break again with a stainless one for the coolant line when I noticed the above. 2 of the turbo to manifold nuts came undone, the two that are hard to tighten. One of them I sinched back down because I couldnt get the nut off, the other one the locking mechanism was toast so I replaced it and got it a whole bunch tighter.



Also welded the cam trigger wheel onto the cam, that was an ugly weld. And pulled he pan to clean everything up again. Next weekend I can drill that hole in the block and do the valve cover AN fitting. Last night I put all the hard lines in the car for the brakes just havent done the rear line, seeing if I can get the whole line from mazda for cheap.

I'm getting real sick of seeing the engine like this.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

I blame the frequency of disassembly on the use of Taiwanese wrenches. Shoulda bought Snap-on bro!

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Lol, the ratchet side of those wrenches work great, the open end side is sightly better than harbor freight.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

I kid I kid. The Gearwrench stuff is noticeable nicer than the latest Cman stuff. Unless the Snap-on truck shows up to your door to warranty/replace stuff, there is simply no justifying the price. That is not to say the tools aren't nice, but rather, not exponentially nicer then the cheapish offerings from SK, Wright, Armstrong, Gearwrench, etc.

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Oops.



Trying to weld the bung for my oil temp sender into the oil pan. I was welding lefty but my brain was moving my hands like I was welding righty. Yeah... I ordered a few more from mcmaster and a big 3/8" one just in case. If I fail at all of that I'll just tap the pan for 3/8 npt.

In other news, I cleaned up some wiring on the engine, have the valve cover back on, and the reroute thingy in the back. The damn reroute spacer had better not leak this time or I'm going to take the rev limiter off and burnout until it pops. I've got real thread sealent on the thread of everything, removed the stock gauge temp sender and put a flush fitting plug on and put the VDO temp gauge sender in the little allen plug that hides on the exhaust side of the head by the heater core hose. The reroute spacer is also now sealed with hondabond.

I got the ecu put in the glove box, so now once I get a new drivers seat the current drivers seat can get bolted directly to the floor on the passenger's side.

I finished wiring all the ABS sensors to the ABS unit. I still need my new m6x1 tap to come in so I can clean up all the holes for the abs wiring in the wheel well. I also need the fuse blocks and stuff I ordered for that to come in so I can finish the wiring completely. I'm going to make an additional power panel next to the stock box to hold the fuses, relay, and breaker for the ABS and power steering.

I was going to put the lower ball joint nuts on and finally put the front calipers back on and that ****, but in the bag from mazdaspeed with the number for my 2 lbj nuts were 2 unknown spark plugs. lolol. They also stapled through my valve cover gasket. Much fail. And my rear brake hardline supposedly shipped from them, but didnt come in that box. Hopefully it comes this week so I can finally close up the whole brake system this coming weekend.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Managed to weld the bung onto the oil pan, doesnt seem to leak, looks like ***. Kicked my dad out of the garage for a bit because I was pissed at him for convincing me to weld the damn fitting on rather than just tapping the pan. I got the rear brake line in. The NB line more or less fits kind of ok with the NA chassis and fuel lines. Got the oil pan on and properly torqued, used honda bond so that bitch wont leak this time. The torque spec on the pan is weird, its above the top of my 1/4" drive bending beam torque wrench but right at the bottom of my 3/8" drive.

Finished wiring up the gauges below the radio. Pulled the gauge cluster out to fit the new water temp gauge, took a whole lot more cutting than I've seen with other people on this gauge, but whatever. I got stuck on figuring out how to wire the gauge up so it would light up like the stock ones and also not require me running another wire outside of the damn cluster. I did figure out why my coolant gauge stopped working, I was pulling apart the harness in the engine bay to get to the stock coolant temp wire to bypass the under dash wiring since thats where I though the break was. I ended up pulling more harness apart than I needed to because all the damn oil wicked up into the harness. And I found the break. Now I have continuity between the pin on the connector in the engine bay and the pin on the gauge cluster connector so I'm going to wire the gauge in the cluster like the stock gauge was.



I have no idea how that break could have happened, it was inside the wire loom.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

And house keeping post.

Things left to buy in order to race march 30th
Power steering pump
PS pressure line
stuff to make splitter
hood retention devices (or just put the stock release back in)
Catch can
headlights
brake fluid
oil
coolant

Things that need to happen
Engine, radiator, intercooler back in
Finish wiring gauges and new sensors
fuel pump wiring
finish abs wiring
power steering wiring
design and make a new splitter
put the front body panels back on
install new headlight setup
bleed brakes and clutch
put some sort of hood latch on
Mount FPR somewhere new since the ABS **** is in the way now
make a new turbo oil feed line and drain line
put new lower ball joint nuts on, brake calipers
align car
pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones
mount power steering rack, install tie rods
put running lights on the trailer
fix the brakes on the trailer
get my dad's truck re-flashed for the brake controller
put seats back in, now with 90-93 style belts

Optional
corner weight car
redo the fuel lines in the engine bay to get rid of the hacky crap
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
vacuum interior
wash exterior
cry

The good news is it looks like I'm under $1000 away from running again. The bad news is that I have 9 weekends go get all that **** done, and the trailer stuff cant happen until the snow melts and its warmish enough to work outside again.

Plan of attack for next weekend is all the above mentioned wiring, I wont be able to finish the PS pump but get close. Get the engine back in, the FPR mounted and thing about re-doing the lines, also get the lbj nuts and calipers on, and the steering rack in.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I have a pretty trick AN low pressure PS system with a Canton Racing reservoir.
Would be nice on your car.

Im up in the air about running it on my own car, being that its road race and not autoX.

Oring'd PS pump to AN adapter:

Ps adapter by HellaFab, on Flickr

Middle you can see the reservoir and lines (-10an feed, -6an return)