Yep! Just got back from his shop actually.

I got:
1. Wilwood dynapro BBK with directional vane rotor
2. Willwood prop valve
3. GLock r12 pads for front and rear
4. Skunk 2 Throttle body
5. Motive brake bleeder

Everything should be here in a week or so. Much exite.

 

Oooh, the fancy rotors!

I'm going to give the $34 rotors one more chance with 3" brake ducts, and if it's still eating them in a couple track days then the directionals are next.

--Ian

 

I thought about the standard rotors but because I will be using basically track pads for both street and track; i figured it would be worth the extra money for the longer pad/rotor life and stopping power. I may try the standard rotors in the future..idk. time will tell.

 

Directional rotors wont help with pad/rotor life on the street. only when they are hot. Also not really any more stopping power either. Unless you are getting brake fade.

 

Well that's not what Andrew said.

 

Interesting. I love to learn new things. Maybe he will stop in and explain.

 

I said longer pad life due to less heat, which imples that it will only improve pad life on track. I definitely never told you it increases stopping power, because the only thing that does that is better tires

 

You said they will perform better. In my mind that meant help stop the car.

I figured the rotors would generate heat under street driving as well so I thought they would help pad life on the street. I didn't realize it only applied to track driving. My bad....im dumb. hehe

 

So the photos from the last track day just got uploaded. The cool thing is that with Speed SF the photo are free!






Here you can see how much the suspension is compressing coming down the corkscrew


And here you can see how much body roll I still have










One of my favorite shots right here

 

In general, larger brakes won't stop the car faster. Improving brake bias will, so the prop valve will shave a small amount off the braking zones. Making the pedal firmer and easier to modulate will also reduce braking zones, but only because they help you as a driver get the most out of the new brakes. The stopping distance is dictated entirely by the contact patch of the tires (and, by association, how effectively you can use that contact patch).

The pads will sit below their temperature range for most of the driving you (should) do on the street. The G-LOC R-series pads are unique in that they won't tear up the rotors when they're below their temperature range like this. The directional rotors will shine on track by letting everything run cooler (pads and rotors).

 

Thanks Andrew. As you can see....I drastically misunderstood pretty much everything.

 

I probably assume too much when trying to give short explanations. Just ask me for clarification if you need to

 

Question for @aidandj & @codrus: how much ABS actuation do you see in an average track session?

This is just a theory, its not meant as an insult or a criticism at all so bear with me: I think its something about the way you drive, you and Aidan both seem to have this problem and you both have ABS. After (trying to) follow Aidan around and looking at the data plots you guys have posted and comparing it to my own, I'm starting to think its because you guys fly into corners, hammer the brakes, and let the ABS prevent wheel lockup, and then power through the corner. Or at least, you have the confidence to do this because you know the ABS is there to watch your back. Where as I, because I am a weenie, brake earlier and try to prevent lockup manually because I don't have the ABS to lean on and tires are expensive. I'm much, much slower than you guys because I spend more time braking, where you guys spend much less time worrying about the brakes.

I'm not saying "You are doing it wrong!" because you are obviously faster than me, its just a theory

 

I rarely engage ABS. Maybe once or twice a track day. Its just good to have in case I panic brake, or hit a slick spot.

My rotors are doing just fine. Its my pads that aren't lasting as long as I want them to. PIR is also incredibly hard on brakes, its essentially 2 drag strips to 115-125mph, then brake to either 60 or 80. ORP I get much better pad wear.

 

ABS = death to brakes. I disable mine at some tracks because certain bumpy transitions can fool the system into going active when it's not necessary (entry to Carousel at Sonoma, infield at SMMR).

 

There is a spot at ORP where the pavement seams can kick it on. But its not like im activating it every corner. I seriously doubt my brakes could handle that.

 

EO2K, just curious, where do you start braking coming into T2 at Laguna?

 

I was melting brakes at the track long before I retrofitted the ABS. I don't routinely engage it braking for corners, I'll probably hear it pulse once every couple laps where I misjudge something or make some other kind of mistake, but I'm definitely not just diving into corners and smashing the brake pedal. I *do* do that intentionally at autox because I think it's the faster way around the course by a few tenths, but not at the big track.

I think the reason why I melt brakes (well, more than other people with similar power) is that I'm braking too much for corners, entering at too slow a speed, and then accelerating through.

--Ian

 

Before the first brake marker and generally single apex, because I'm a giant weenee. I also have a hard time carrying more than 100mph between the bridge and the top of the hill. The car totally has enough power to go in to ******* orbit, but I had a very close call there. Two years ago at M@MRLS there was a NA6 that was probably just approaching the bridge as I came out of turn 11 and gave her ALLOFIT and we damn near met up after the crest. I don't know if he missed a gear or what, but my situational awareness was not calibrated to expect N/A NA6's doing 55mph on the other side of the hill and I've been super paranoid ever since.

I think the ducts are going to help you A LOT. I'm just getting to the point where I'll killing rotors and pads. If I can get some more track time this year I'm going to have to address a few things. I know we are both big fellas with full interior NB's so that's probably not helping Your previous iteration with the 2" ducts and white plumbing fittings in the fog light openings never really looked like it was super effective, so I'm sure the 3" is going to help. I own ducts but they are not installed, simply because I can't find a clean, effective way to mate them to the bumper skin without causing permanent alteration. I'm still waiting for someone to 3D print some solution for the duct/bumper interface so I can just pay them money and not worry about this myself.

 

For those of you who were wondering why my front bumper looks messed up, some guy at Home Depot backed into me and didn't leave a note. Gotta love people.