TSE EFR NB2 Build Thread
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Before the first brake marker and generally single apex, because I'm a giant weenee. I also have a hard time carrying more than 100mph between the bridge and the top of the hill. The car totally has enough power to go in to ******* orbit, but I had a very close call there. Two years ago at M@MRLS there was a NA6 that was probably just approaching the bridge as I came out of turn 11 and gave her ALLOFIT and we damn near met up after the crest. I don't know if he missed a gear or what, but my situational awareness was not calibrated to expect N/A NA6's doing 55mph on the other side of the hill and I've been super paranoid ever since.
I think the ducts are going to help you A LOT. I'm just getting to the point where I'll killing rotors and pads. If I can get some more track time this year I'm going to have to address a few things. I know we are both big fellas with full interior NB's so that's probably not helping
Your previous iteration with the 2" ducts and white plumbing fittings in the fog light openings never really looked like it was super effective, so I'm sure the 3" is going to help. I own ducts but they are not installed, simply because I can't find a clean, effective way to mate them to the bumper skin without causing permanent alteration. I'm still waiting for someone to 3D print some solution for the duct/bumper interface so I can just pay them money and not worry about this myself. 
I think the ducts are going to help you A LOT. I'm just getting to the point where I'll killing rotors and pads. If I can get some more track time this year I'm going to have to address a few things. I know we are both big fellas with full interior NB's so that's probably not helping
Your previous iteration with the 2" ducts and white plumbing fittings in the fog light openings never really looked like it was super effective, so I'm sure the 3" is going to help. I own ducts but they are not installed, simply because I can't find a clean, effective way to mate them to the bumper skin without causing permanent alteration. I'm still waiting for someone to 3D print some solution for the duct/bumper interface so I can just pay them money and not worry about this myself. As far as the duct mounts are concerned, yeah, the 2" iteration was very much Home Depot Racing. The 3" one is a bit better -- I had a piece of 3" aluminum tubing sitting around from when I was making the intake setup for the 2863, which the 3" ducting would just barely slide over. Clamp it down, then put a couple of 3" to 3.25" (I think, might have been 3.5") silicone reducers on the other end. The fat end of that fits nicely right inside the OEM fog light holes, and then I zip-tied them in place using the same mounts I'd used for the previous iteration. Looks much cleaner.
--Ian
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Alright people. I have a question for you.
So I've secretly been stockpiling parts. One of those parts was a spare block with a balanced crank and a oil pump. The block was from the same guy that sold me the forged pistons and rods. So...I was thinking.....what are the chances that when they built the motor they also installed a billet oil pump? I pulled the pump off today but there are no Boundary logos or anything, so how do I identify if it is a billet pump or not?
So I've secretly been stockpiling parts. One of those parts was a spare block with a balanced crank and a oil pump. The block was from the same guy that sold me the forged pistons and rods. So...I was thinking.....what are the chances that when they built the motor they also installed a billet oil pump? I pulled the pump off today but there are no Boundary logos or anything, so how do I identify if it is a billet pump or not?
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FWIW, my Boundary pump is an older one and came with the gears installed in a Motorcraft casting. It freaked me out at first so I contacted Boundary and they talked me back from the ledge. IDK if they are still using those housings, but its a data point none the less. Any casting marks or stamps anywhere on the pump?
Is there a logo or something machined in the gear? Is it a dramatically different design or metal composition or something?
Is there a logo or something machined in the gear? Is it a dramatically different design or metal composition or something?
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the billet gears the surfaces are brighter and more polished on the sides, vs the stock cast gears. when I compared (years ago) there was a very obvious difference in metal and overall look. I think there was something machined too but that depends on how long ago it was made, only the newer stuff has machined logo IIRC.
anyone that knows more, correct me if I'm wrong
anyone that knows more, correct me if I'm wrong
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On the newer boundary pumps they swap out a couple of the bolts for secure torx:
But yeah, the early ones were often sold just as gears to put into your old pump housing.
--Ian
But yeah, the early ones were often sold just as gears to put into your old pump housing.
--Ian
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Not sure if anyone else has this problem with the 6spd gear box but recently my 4th to 5th shift has started to feel notchy. I first noticed at the track where I would go to shift and it would just grind while "power shifting" (fast shifting). While shifting slow its fine, but its definately notchy. Im thinking its a bad synchro. Ill try flushing it with redline MTL and see what happens.
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They look to be nothing special. Im going to assume its stock. Its interesting though. I cant ever imagine these gears breaking. They felt/looked so beefy.
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From: Beaverton, USA
Not sure if anyone else has this problem with the 6spd gear box but recently my 4th to 5th shift has started to feel notchy. I first noticed at the track where I would go to shift and it would just grind while "power shifting" (fast shifting). While shifting slow its fine, but its definately notchy. Im thinking its a bad synchro. Ill try flushing it with redline MTL and see what happens.
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Thread Starter
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So...motorcraft or Aidans mix?
Last edited by icantlearn; Mar 12, 2017 at 06:10 PM.
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I think you are going to have to try a couple different things and see. Different transmissions seem to like different things.
I tried the Ford juice and it made my trans super sad, so I switched to the Amsoil MTG 75w90 and now all is well. It's no Miata 5 speed, but its still awesome after a 20~30 minute session. It also shifts great when cold.
I'm not familiar with Uncle Aidan's Cocktail, but its got some merit. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but one of the big things that I've come to learn from my reading that most people seem to forget (but Hustler keeps screaming at us about) is that these are yellow metal synchro transmissions and they were designed around a GL4 gear oil. They were literally designed before GL5 existed. Most OTS GL5 fluid advertises "GL4 backwards compatible" but the GL5 is just too ******* slippery to make the synchros work correctly. The only true GL4 stuff you are going to find is ghetto "Coastal" brand dinosaur squeezings or a specialty fluid like the Amsoil. Amsoil Synchromesh and Pennzoil Synchromesh are products that exist specifically because of this issue. The MTG GL4 or Synchromesh have the additive packages and properties that allow enough friction in the synchro to let it actually ...sync.
But I may be talking out of my ***. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm spreading misinformation.
I tried the Ford juice and it made my trans super sad, so I switched to the Amsoil MTG 75w90 and now all is well. It's no Miata 5 speed, but its still awesome after a 20~30 minute session. It also shifts great when cold.
I'm not familiar with Uncle Aidan's Cocktail, but its got some merit. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but one of the big things that I've come to learn from my reading that most people seem to forget (but Hustler keeps screaming at us about) is that these are yellow metal synchro transmissions and they were designed around a GL4 gear oil. They were literally designed before GL5 existed. Most OTS GL5 fluid advertises "GL4 backwards compatible" but the GL5 is just too ******* slippery to make the synchros work correctly. The only true GL4 stuff you are going to find is ghetto "Coastal" brand dinosaur squeezings or a specialty fluid like the Amsoil. Amsoil Synchromesh and Pennzoil Synchromesh are products that exist specifically because of this issue. The MTG GL4 or Synchromesh have the additive packages and properties that allow enough friction in the synchro to let it actually ...sync.
But I may be talking out of my ***. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm spreading misinformation.
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