Then it should be relatively easy to remove. Easy out, or any sort of way to turn it. There isn't tension on the bolt anymore, so it should turn freely.

 

Would anyone know if I can buy another one at a local hardware store? Or do you think I can get the same bolt and drill a hole through it?

 

Doubtful. That's not an easy hole to drill, unless you have a drill press and a good vice to hold the bolt.

 

I have a fixture for holding it while being drilled, but the drill press that was in my old garage got returned to its owner and I haven't gotten around to buying one yet. Andrew probably has more bolts in stock, though.

--Ian

 

Andrew is at T-Hill. So I'll have to wait till Monday to get a new bolt if he has any and I won't be able to work in the car till next weekend. Therefore, I am going to try to drill a hole in a new bolt. If it doesn't work I'm out $0.50. So may as well give it a try.

I was looking for a torque spec in the instructions because I was afraid this was going to happen. And it did.

 

Those brakes are hot. How hard was it to break that bolt? Seems like the threads in the aluminum hat would strip first

 

The bolt snapped easier than I thought/expected.

 

Probably a defective bolt. There's a lot of variability in grade 8 hardware, solving that problem is why aircraft bolts are so expensive.

--Ian

 

So today I got the snapped bolt out and new set of bolts from Andrew and started completely over. I finished safety wiring to my best ability with the tools I had and am happy with it. This took way longer than I was expecting because the wire that wraps around the first bolt kept on coming up over the bolt head. Those of you that have done this know what I'm talking about.

https://flic.kr/p/RqeCas[url=https://flic.kr/p/RqeCas]

I also drilled out an oil drain plug that I got from auto zone so I could stick my oil temp sensor in there. Hopefully it works.

https://flic.kr/p/SsXRof[url=https://flic.kr/p/SsXRof]

https://flic.kr/p/SsXPvC[url=https://flic.kr/p/SsXPvC]

https://flic.kr/p/SsXLCo[url=https://flic.kr/p/SsXLCo]

I aslo started working on the Skunk 2 TB. All the gaskets and the IACV spacer lined up perfect but there is one screw which is like 2mm too long. Its the short one that is in between the IACV and the Spacer. EO2K, did you have this issue?

https://flic.kr/p/S7SW3d[url=https://flic.kr/p/S7SW3d]

 

The safety wire should be set up so that it holds the wire over the bolt head.

 

.... wow

edit: Ive never seen that before and it wasn't in Andrews instructions. So, I'm not sure how correct you are.

 

I may be imagining it wrong, but I just lock wired my turbo and wrapped it around so it held the wire on.

 

ok, see how in example #1 the wire is coming around the side of the bolt? Well what was happening to me was the wire that wraps around (the top bolt in the pic) would could over the top of the bolt head. Make sense?

 

Yeah so what I was saying is the wire that wraps around the bolt should go under the one that comes out of the side. Then as you tighten it it gets held down.

 

Yes, I was doing that but it still wanted to flop on top of the bolt head. It was very frustrating.

 

I don't remember having that problem. Are the gaskets in there yet? They might take up some of that space, or maybe swap the bolts? If I remember correctly the bolt in the center of your pic gets closed up inside the assembly, and it looks like its sitting below the surface? Sorry, I'm probably just not getting it, not enough coffee yet this morning.

 

Gaskets were in there. I tried swapping bolts and that definately wasn't the issue. And you are correct, the bolt is recessed in the IACV spacer and gets closed up by the IACV.

 

I think this is why the good safety wire pliers will spin in both directions.

--Ian

 

I need some opinions. Silver or gloss black hardtop for my car? I'm kind of leaning towards to black to match the wheels and add some contrast. But part of me says it might look weird. So, what do you guys think?

 

Body colored, always.

--Ian