Yay.

--Ian

 

Ian, I have your tools to give you. text me when a good time is for me to return them to you.

 

lol, reading this going "I bet he flipped his timing wheel"

On those T25 Torx, you will strip them 9/10 times using hand tools. You have to use an impact gun to pop them out.

 

I have stripped them with every tool known to man. I won't reuse those bolts. I think I keep about 10 spare new ones from Mazda on hand in my garage so they are handy for replacements.

 

I use this on small stuff with the appropriate bit and haven't stripped a screw yet.





https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I have one of those, it works great for those stupid phillips screws holding brake rotors to hubs on Hondas. I haven't tried it on a VVT actuator, though.

--Ian

 

​​​​​​​Well **** another tool I need to go buy.

 

Haha, I did the same damn thing to the trigger wheel. You can get it off just taking off the alternator belt? I had to take off the TB and everything on my NB!

You don't need to go anywhere brah. AMAZONNNN!!!!

 

I snapped the stupid to torx bit using the hammer impact. BTW, anyone know the specs on those tiny screws? I'm just going to order some from mcmastercarr.

 

M5X0.8 x 9.3 OAL (6 thd) (90° countersink)

McMaster Carr:




1mm longer than stock (3mm hex)



1mm shorter than stock (3mm hex)

Bolt Depot:

(Stainless steel) 10mm OAL with T25 Torx

 

Thanks! I will post this in my thread as well.

 

[QUOTE=ryansmoneypit;1407627]I snapped the stupid to torx bit using the hammer impact. /QUOTE]

Sometimes the reversible ones get set to tighten instead of loosen. Easy for that to happen. If I were buying a new one I'd buy the type only setup to loosen stuff.

 

I did try the impact after cautiously using hand tools, as soon as I pulled the trigger the crew stripped.

I still have PS and AC so I had to remove that belt as well.

I just went to ACE Hardware and got some countersunk philips head screws that looked the same dimensions.

 

I got lucky with my Torx screws. Came out nice and easy. When you work on a lot of German cars you start getting used to the things.

 

I've always managed to get those cam cover bolts off by hand. (I've seen both T25 and Phillips/JIS, actually.) The worst part is that they come loose with this horrifying "POP!" that makes you feel like you broke your wrist.

These are one of the applications i break the Felo Ergonics out for, every time.

 

I'm having some issues with the junk 2 tb. It kind of seems like the throttle plate is sticking? Kinda scary.

The car sometimes won't drop to normal idle RPM after cruising. RPM will stay at 2500-1200 range until I blip the throttle. Then it drops back to normal.

The other thing is sometimes my idle oscilates really bad and the car will die. But it's not constant. I am going to play with the idle VE table and see what I can do about that.

The last thing is that sometimes the idle will increase from 800 to 2k by itself, and as soon as it kits 2k it jumps back down to 800 immediately.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...6/#post1408036

I've heard you can also drill a new hole to adjust the location of the throttle cable.

 

Most likely just a coincidence, but my stock 2000 does the same thing from time to time. This is with stock ecu and TB... Most likely unrelated, but an interesting datapoint none the less.

 

That's a good idea (spring). Thanks Aidan.

 

Then you probably have a vacuum leak.