You need to be careful doing that, because it can mushroom the end of the axle and then it's never coming off. One technique is to take the nut off, clean up the bit where it was peened into the slot, and then thread it on backwards and hit that with the hammer instead. Lots of penetrating lube helps, and a press may be necessary. I couldn't get my original axles out, so I put it back together, took it to a shop and had them do it.

--Ian

 

BTW, the hub & axle nuts are technically "use once" nuts. I've reused them in the past, when I was going to be taking it apart multiple times in quick succession, but if you're putting it back together and want to call it "done", IMHO it's worth putting on new nuts at that point.

--Ian

 

We've successfully used a torch to help remove them before when even a sledge couldn't get em out. Heated those bad boys up and they popped out with a light tap

 

Is there anything there that heat can damage? I imagine you need to clean and re-pack bearings? I am completely ignorant here.

(sorry for hijacking your thread btw)

 

Your not hijacking. You are still on topic. Carry on.

 

Didn't clean, unpack, or replace anything. You're heating up the stub/splines of the axles, it's really concentrated heat, and I doubt the actual bearings see any more heat than they normally do during driving/racing. I've not had a single problem. Heat is one of the best, if not the best solution in this case. Heat and penetrating oil = win

This is also how we remove frozen/rusted/stripped bolts/studs/nuts.

 

Press is the worst way to go IMO. Definitely need sharp hits, not constant pressure.

Air chisel/air hammer with a conical tip (in the dimple at the end of the axle) is how I got mine out.

 

Heat the axle or the hub? If you are looking for the hub to loosen its grip on the splines, presumably heat the hub? Unless differential expansion means it doesn't matter ...

 

I got the ARP wheel studs and 949 lugs in last weekend.



These were such a PAIN IN THE ***! I bought a harbor freight 12 ton press to do the job and it was still a pain. I could never get the studs to go in perfectly straight, they were always slightly off enough to prevent the hub sliding through the rotor or wheel. It took all day to do the front hubs. And I said to myself this is one job that isn't worth my time so I'm probably not going to do the rear.

The thing is, I bet whichever shop I bring the hubs to are going to impact the studs in....

Anyways, here are those little bastards.

 

Here is the "BIG news" that I hinted at in a previous post. I couldn't hide it any longer.






Its a carbon NASCAR COT wing. The legeit one. It has FM stands and I think Singular end plates. Its super light and awesome. I also got an alumilite front splitter to balance out the front.

I can't wait for my next track day. I just need those brakes to get here so I can slap those on.

 

I love seeing proper wings on miatas, not some glamor wing that is 1 foot too low, and no front splitter...

Nice find

 

I'm still pissed I missed the boat on the COT wings

I'm guessing this is a second hand setup from someone? Very nice setup, looks pretty legit.

 

Yes, it is second hand. I got the wing and splitter from Ariel at SB Garage in south SF. Ariel is a super nice guy and his costumer service is top notch. Ive bought some other small things from him before so if you are in cali and need something quick order from SB. They usually have standard 2 day shipping. Or if you are local enough just go to the shop.

This was the setup on his car before he sold it to me.

 

Check this out:
George's Track-Tuned, Turbocharged Miata

 

Brakes are HERE!

































And the Skunk 2 throttle body came in too.

 

OK, the brake stuff is pornography.

About the Skunk2...

1. Locktite ALLTHETHINGS that attach to the throttle body with threads. I'm not even joking.
2. Take a pic of the accessory pack, specifically the IACV adapter, and post up.

Hopefully you won't be in for the world of **** that some of the rest of us have gone through. S2 is notorious for not packing the right NA/NB IACV adapters, gaskets and hardware in the correct boxes. If it's wrong, send it back immediately and thank me later.

 

I saw the issues you had in your thread. I didn't think to check the accessory pack. I'll check it this afternoon. Thanks for the heads up. Fingers crossed everything fits.

 

Well ****... Any ideas?
https://flic.kr/p/SACKKf

https://flic.kr/p/RqjqHt

https://flic.kr/p/SEiaDx

 

Did it break tightening it? If so should be easy to remove. Easy out, or I even used superglue on a head bolt once.

If it broke trying to remove it....

Good luck...

 

No it broke tightening it. Ill try easy out, but it may not work because of how deep it is in there