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Old May 7, 2017 | 11:03 PM
  #701  
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What are the symptoms of your kickback.
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:05 PM
  #702  
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A lot of pedal travel before anything happens. The pedal is firm once it engages, so its not fluid. There is just a whole lot of nothing and then the brakes work.
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:06 PM
  #703  
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Is it every time you use them? You might be able to adjust the slack out of it.
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:07 PM
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No, its after I brake hard. When driving normally the pedal feels good.
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:13 PM
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Odd. Did you set up the transfer layer correctly for the Gloc pads?
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:14 PM
  #706  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Odd. Did you set up the transfer layer correctly for the Gloc pads?
Yes. I made sure to do that. Andrew precautioned me to do that as well.
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #707  
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I got nothin then
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:18 PM
  #708  
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I was talking with Andrew about it and he said to check my hubs. Which I did. But they may be moving slightly while under high load. its kinda the only thing left.
Old May 7, 2017 | 11:53 PM
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Dunno anything about Gloc pads. Looking up the specs on it, sounds like it shouldn't be fading (1800F temperature range), but dunno. I can say that with all of my brake woes, fading pads (DTC-60) is not one of them.

You have TSE 11.75s and sport rears? Were you running the same compound in each?

Runout on the rotors? Iffy bearings will also cause pad knockback.

--Ian
Old May 8, 2017 | 12:25 AM
  #710  
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TSE 11.75 Dynapros in the front, sport ears same compound all round.

I doubt the rotors have runout. they are the nice directional vane ones too.

Im probably gonna replace both front hubs. I should probably do it anyways.
Old May 8, 2017 | 01:39 AM
  #711  
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It's easy enough to check runout. Get a dial indicator and a magnetic base (the cheap ones from harbor freight are fine for this purpose), screw on a couple of lugnuts to stop the rotor from flopping around, attach the magnetic base to the upright and put the dial indicator against the rotor. Spin it and see how far it wanders. You can take the rotor off and do the same thing to the hub as well.

How does the pad transfer layer look?

--Ian
Old May 8, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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Old May 9, 2017 | 01:09 AM
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^ I don't know for sure, but that looks blue and scuffed to me, like they got too hot during break in? Dunno.

I always get really poor results when I try to break in the proper way. Terrible pedal softness and travel.

Just driving the car normally seems to get a nice grey transfer layer, so I stopped the recommended procedure.
Old May 9, 2017 | 01:12 AM
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they are blue from the track. Scuffing is also from the track I think. its smooth to the touch, but its just weird that its only in the middle and outside, but nothing in the inside.
Old May 18, 2017 | 08:28 PM
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I emailed Skunk 2 about the sticking throttle body. hopefully they won't be ***** about it.
Old May 18, 2017 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00
I emailed Skunk 2 about the sticking throttle body. hopefully they won't be ***** about it.
Old May 18, 2017 | 08:41 PM
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Old May 18, 2017 | 08:49 PM
  #718  
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Old May 18, 2017 | 09:14 PM
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Don't worry, they'll take care of you.

Old May 18, 2017 | 09:15 PM
  #720  
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why do you have that saved G? Thats some weird *** ****. haha

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