+1 SADfab has been awesome!

Sounds like you ran into the same issues I had.

• Front uppers too long
• Rear lowers outers too long (These needed a washer too)
• Rear lower inners too short
• Rear upper inners too long

Sort of expected this since the V8R dont use factory bushings. Did you have similar issues?

I'm also chocking this up to the v8 Arms being weird non-oem spec dimensions.
1) My front uppers where too long, and have been corrected by shaving down 3mm
2) Rear lower outers I didn't seem to have issue with, but I'd have to check. I haven't noticed any knocking around. How far are you off by?
3) Rear lower Inners weren't an issue for me.
4) Rear upper inner was a major pain in the ass. Had nothing to do with the SADFab sleeves. The bushings themselves where fat so I literally had to pry the sheet metal outward a bit to comply and take the arms, then pinch it back shut with the bolts. I'd expect this to be the area of most binding if at all.

Totally agree with you there. The SADfab stuff was PERFECT in the factory arms I have. Issues only presented themselves when attempting this retrofit.

1) My front uppers were too long, and have been corrected by shaving down 3mm

Same here, just used a bench grinder and finished with a roloc disk. I'm hoping a kitten didn't die somewhere because I ruined the pretty machining on the sleeves.

2) Rear lower outers I didn't seem to have issue with, but I'd have to check. I haven't noticed any knocking around. How far are you off by?

About 2mm, shaved 1mm off each sleeve so they sat flush with the outside bushing. I would double check these on your car and throw some washers on. I have some extras from an old poly kit if you want them. Just PM me your shipping.

3) Rear lower Inners weren't an issue for me.

These weren't way off, I just shaved the bushings down a little so that the the washers butted up tightly with the sleeve. Seems like the V8Rs are a touch narrow here, so I shaved the inside bushings. IIRC it was .5mm I shaved off the face of each inner bushing.

4) Rear upper inner was a major pain in the ass. Had nothing to do with the SADFab sleeves. The bushings themselves where fat so I literally had to pry the sheet metal outward a bit to comply and take the arms, then pinch it back shut with the bolts. I'd expect this to be the area of most binding if at all.

I shaved 1mm off the inside of each control arm, then trimmed the inside of the bushings and pressed the bushings back in. No binding, didn't have to stretch out the subframe ears to make it fit. Its the same dimensions as a factory arm now.

I should really just ship all the V8R sleeves to Sean.

Was just going to ask if someone could measure or send me a sleeve set. Im a little confused as i just double checked my spread sheets and although the fucas were an obvious mistake, i verified the rest to be exactly as Bob documented them. He made his set for v8r arms and i trust bob knows how to use a caliper. In any case id like to get to the bottom of it before i sell anymore v8r kits. Im at the gym, ill read through all this when i get home, thanks guys.

I already sent you the measurements, but i can take more, also when I send you these back i can send the unused set i got from V8R as well for reference

It sounds like my issues were because I ordered a "normal" set of bushings and stuffed them in V8R arms. That might explain the hurdles I encountered.

I have all the sleeves sitting on my floor, sadly I didn't label them but will keep an eye out for the rear outers.

Based on your below comments and my sales history it appears that you did order the normal kit but that only explains the RUCA and FUCA. Those 2 are the only 2 that are different lengths from a normal kit. The v8r RUCA is 2mm longer than normal, so that explains why you have to fight them to get them in(bob had the same experience as payam), and why removing 2mm from the bushing bores of your RUCAs made your normal sleeve work perfect ( we should let V8R know about that maybe?)and fit nicely into the subframe. And the normal FUCAs are 2.25" which is what I coincidentally had written down as V8R, instead of 2.15".

But, the 2​ 1 (see edit) RLCA locations should be identical to a normal set. I also assumed the V8R arms came with washers for the RLCA-Os like the ES bushing kit includes. Good to know, ill order some for future.

I should be able to figure out which is which, especially if you measure IDs too. If you wouldn't mind that would be awesome... or Brian. There are only 5 different sizes for the whole car not including the rear hub.

This is what Bob posted, and what I have been referring to.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08225ab2b8.png

The only difference being that I use 0.120" washers, not 0.160", so the LCA sleeve lengths are a little different although overall assembly length is within 0.010" of the above.

Do the V8r RUCAs come with the hub bushing and sleeve?

Edit- RLCA-O. Brian, I see it now, The normals are indeed 0.75mm longer than V8R. Although the inner bushing flanges to rear knuckle interface is the primary thrust load carrier, so its not really an issue. Payam, may want to double check yours, but it shouldn't cause issues.

I'll send you all the sleeves I have when I send the plug wires in.

My v8 arms didn't ha e any washers whatsoever ever. I'll double check, but so far so good. I'll probably lying do a mini tear down when servicing the brakes before track day.

perfect

I must have been inebriated when typing that last one out. But you get the idea.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fd8c3283b0.jpg

Miata Roadster Short Throw Shifter kit is a huge improvement for the 6speed. Still need to adjust my clutch.

This car just keeps getting better!

RE: sleeves - I have my V8R sleeves all labeled, but the battery in my calipers are dead. I'll reply once I find them. Perhaps its time to venture over to the megathread so we don't clutter up this sweet build. :likecat:

I believe they do. I'll send you all my leftovers since I'm gliding on SADFab sleeves errywhere

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...53ce46f6e3.jpgNew compressor housing

The short and gritty.

EFR6758 has shaft play, a supercore replacement has been ordered to replace this supercore. Trying to see where I can send this off to see if it's a fluke or if there is something critically wrong with my setup. Car will have new intercooler this weekend, some custom piping and the Blackbird Fabworx drop mounts installed. New 90° compressor housing on the hopefully to be delivered by Thursday EFR6758 supercore. This makes me so terribly sad.

I hacked up an old fan shroud to relocate my fan from the center to make room for the oil cooler. Not ideal post radiator, but I have no space anywhere else thanks to A/C.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...20644a9d33.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0a50640107.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...986b4063ca.jpg






Speaking of A/C, I'm going to try something new. I hope it works. NB Drier with high side line to the NA hardline/evap.

On second thought, I should have placed the fan on the passenger side to allow the oil cooler to receive some cooler air. 20/20 hind sight.

Mike Franke at Southeast Power Systems in Tampa, FL is where you should send the turbo for evaluation. They are one of a couple of Borg Warner Master Distributors in the country and Mike could talk to you for hours on technical issues about the EFRs. He is very involved with BW directly regarding r&d and testing. I don't have his number on me but Google the office number.

Thanks a lot ! Hopefully it's in my head but I appreciate the great lead.

I've also been wondering (beside oil cooling) if the physical location of the turbo has anything to do with its ability to extract heat. Convection would have it flowing opposite to convention on shut down right?

re: fan load: There are purpose-built fan controllers that have soft start - much kinder electrical load. There are also soft start PWM DC motor controllers that do the same, just need to check amps.