It's times like this I literally dream of what NB life would be like. This damn filter can't fit anywhere, it's a miracle that it fits where it is without sending broken filter element/wire into the compressor. The new filter away from the radiator is EVEN smaller.

This is the next fail-aids I need to correct as soon as I can find a reasonable fabricator. May go with Braineacks recommendation and stick the filter out by the fender and just have fabricator build the tight radius piping.

Payam, what diameter is the coupler?

Could you take some more clearance pictures? (curmudgeon statement redacted :D ).
I bet you could make it work if you're willing to do some welding on your compressor housing.

Im thinking of a tight radius elbow from summit that might clear if he answers my question! (yes I know I can just go look it up)

The coupler is 2.5" 135° silicone. I cut the silicone down to about an inch just before the radius starts ( just enough to fit over the flange squarely with a clamp) to pull it as close to the turbo as possible. A metal pipe might require some extra length to make room for two clamps and a silicone coupler. BRB I'll grab a picture.

I don't think you'll get a much tighter radius than this.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-670177/overview/

Well, that's not terrible, the lamp motor tilts forward to when the lamps are up, if im not mistaken.

A 2.5" aluminum bend will have an OD almost 1" smaller than that silicon bit.
You could even modify an aluminum pipe to oval a little to clear the headlight motor.
Edit: this assumes you're ok with welding it onto your nice efr housing :D

The lamp motors are physically in the way, the actuator arm doesn't interfere at all. I thought about a way to relocate or do something to gain some clearance.

An aluminum pipe will probably gain a bit of space, but not 1". I do worry that because the silicone is creased due to the headlight motor/adjuster that the vacuum will taco it, but maybe I'll just stick a clamp on it to keep the tube from buckling.

I only have mig experience and I don't even have access to much of that stuff since I left academics 2 years ago. Maybe this is where one of those silly intake vband clamps might come in handy if they have flanges in aluminum.

No clue, I'll leave it to the pro's

I was going to say, doesn't the EFR inlet beadroll also do duty as half of a vband? I remember reading this somewhere but I could never find the mating part. I wanted to do this on my intake so I could get a tight radius aluminum 90 on my inlet as well.

Maybe @aidandj can cut us a weld stub with the vband mate on a lathe now that he has an EFR sitting in his living room. ;)

Its in my bedroom.

Is it actually a v band connection?

Dunno, I didn't bring the EFR to work with me today.

I very well could be on drugs.

Couldnt find pictures online

If i recall, the outlets on some EFR platforms can be cut down for a vband, but nothing about the inlets. Of the 3 EFR625x turbos i've had in my possession, none are inherently vband. ,

You can always cut back the inlet and weld a pipe directly to the turbo.

Obviously not the easiest suggestion. But possible.

Awww, poop. Well, that's probably what I was thinking. I'm curious to see what they come up with.

This is what I was thinking. I have a stupid idea for the inlet on my own car once I get that all squared away, but for now I'm not going to worry about it. Gesso is going to hate me when I start bringing him random bits of aluminum :)

Also related: is that a spare compressor cover? Maybe for a 6258? :x:

If anyone needs to borrow a housing for modification, I have an extra.

A welded elbow directly onto the housing might be the tightest it gets. That 90° might just sneak behind the motor